clutch bleeding issues *i know its been covered...*

[G. Mann]

Spend less that $5 for an old fashioned hand oil can with a finger pump and another $2 for some 1/8 " clear hose [it can be the cheap stuff, you only need it to hold brake fluid under a little pressure.

No need for expensive new lines. Just pump the brake fluid up from the bottom and push the air up [the way it wants to go].

Try it once, and you will add the whole setup to your road tool kit. Promise. It's one of those "why the hell didn't I think of that" things.

 

[RLDSL]

If you want the REAL easy way ( but much more expensive) get a Motive power Bleeder hook that puppy up, pump it up and crack the bleeder and in a few seconds any air will be forced out and the system filled with fluid and you can close it up and be on your way

It's a mighty handy tool to have.

 

[riotwarrior]

If you want the REAL easy way ( but much more expensive) get a Motive power Bleeder hook that puppy up, pump it up and crack the bleeder and in a few seconds any air will be forced out and the system filled with fluid and you can close it up and be on your way

It's a mighty handy tool to have.

OR you could do this for a lot less....and have the same tool!

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140620

 

[89dieselbko]

That's why driving it down a road going over bumps and hills works so well also. The hardest part is getting it in gear the first time. Hopefully you have bled it enough where the clutch "sort-of" works. You can then usually get it into 5th, and then quickly work your way down to 1st or reverse. Once you get going down the road, the vibrations of the engine and the truck will help bleed the system out completely.

Well i got rained out yesterday, and went home to get the clutch bled. i pinged and flicked, rattled, and in about an hour still could not get a bubble out. I think due to it being a SS line, i dont want to bend it around but looking at it there is one bend that is a *high* spot, so i yanked the slave, and repeated above steps, got a touch of air out, have slightly better pedal, but still cant get enough out to disengage the clutch. I live down a dirt road, maybe ill try to get it fired in geared and go in and out the lane a time or 2, either that or im going to buy the hand pump and try that method. Stupid metal line, makes me wish i had just got a nice red one so i could see and work it out more easily.

Noob time. The clutch is brand spanking new *about 40 miles on it* i should have waited to change my crap out until it was broke in, but who knew it would be such a hassle! So would firing it in gear to let my dirt road *hopefully* purge some air be detrimental to the clutch in any way? Im sure the flywheel will be fine *expensive piece of metal let me tell ya* but i would hate to blow my new clutch fighting an air bubble!

 

[riotwarrior]

.... Stupid metal line, makes me wish i had just got a nice red one so i could see and work it out more easily.

Noob time. The clutch is brand spanking new *about 40 miles on it* i should have waited to change my crap out until it was broke in, but who knew it would be such a hassle! So would firing it in gear to let my dirt road *hopefully* purge some air be detrimental to the clutch in any way? Im sure the flywheel will be fine *expensive piece of metal let me tell ya* but i would hate to blow my new clutch fighting an air bubble!

I'm absolutely 100% certain of my willingness to trade you straight across one RED for your stainless one! Absolutely 100 % certain!

I can have it packaged in mail in less than 24hrs! Heck I'ld even pay shipping both ways..

 

[G. Mann]

Try bleeding it from the bottom up with the oil pumper trick. Your clutch will be working in 5 minutes and life can go on.

You will be glad you did.

 

[Matrix37495]

What we did on Seth's truck was crawl under the truck and push the slave pushrod in (pushed the fork forward) and let it draw itself back out.... after doing that 3 or 4 times we had enough pedal to drive it. This was with the braided steel line.

We tried pumping the pedal for a long time, but the only thing that worked was pushing the rod on the slave it to force ait up and draw fluid back.... Give er a try...

 

[82F100SWB]

I have posted the method Matrix used probably half a dozen times and even submitted it for a tech article, yet noone ever seems to listen. That procedure comes right out of the Ford shop manuals, and it works every time. Ford calls for cycling the slave six times.

 

[89dieselbko]

So i stopped at advance, grabbed the pump and a proper bleeder (my slave had the allen bleeder) and i decided, what the heck, pushing slave cylinder in only takes a minute. after the second slave compression, jumped in the bronco, hit the clutch about 5 times, felt great. fired it up, proceeded to drive out my dirt lane, then about 22 miles to altoona, worked like a charm!

Pedal is still low to the ground, but as a used the clutch assembly from my parts truck the spring is pretty worn, but the clutch is fully engaged/disengaged so im not to worried about it.

Just to throw this out there, the ol idi is loud as heck without the in cab trans cover - sound deaden-er - carpet. Like headache after 40 miles loud, have to get that stuff put back together after fixing some holes.

Thanks every for the assistance with this. i will NEVER EVER open my clutch system again. Ill drop it off at a garage next time it needs anything, its not worth the headache!



Hopefully this is the last time i have to post with issues, next up is new motorcraft glowplugs and i have found all of the needed material to make that go smooth, even if it all goes to heck like my clutch issue here. Lots of good information here! Maybe i can make next years idi rally, this year is a bust, working pipeline in Pittsburgh and 32 bucks an hour union rate is something im not able to give up!

Thanks again!