F-Superduty Hydro Boost Parts

[bike-maker]

Just swung through my local JY and found a freshly received F-SuperDuty bricknose. Guy at the counter said I could rob the hydroboost brake setup for $75.
What exactly do I need to rob off of this thing?
I plan on reusing my master cylinder - I already oblonged the wholes to fit on the bricknose vacuum booster that is in my truck now.
So do I just need the booster (part that goes where the vacuum booster would normally go), power steering pump, and the lines in between?
Power steering pump looks like the same as mine but with the different plastic reservoir on it. I would just need to swap the serpentine pulley for my V-belt?
Would putting this in my slantnose create the angle issues where it attaches to my brake pedal?
And I am aware that I would need to get new brake lines that go to the calipers/rear wheel cylinders.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[towcat]

make sure the pushrod between the hydro and the master doesn't get lost.
you need the pump, hydro, two pressure hoses and hydro to pump return hose.
get the brake pedal arm off the bracket too.

 

[bike-maker]

Perfect.
No issues with running the stock cast iron master cylinder?

 

[towcat]

Perfect.
No issues with running the stock cast iron master cylinder?

just slot and install.

 

[Diesel_brad]

Thanks for bringing this up

I am contemplating buying a 88 F-superduty to rob the 5 sped trans and Hydroboost for my 97.

Can I use everything form the 88(hydroboost) in my 97, or do I need some different part

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

the cast iron masters will directly bolt to the hydro.no slotting required.that's only for the newer aluminum masters where you need to do that. - so iv read many times.no first hand confirmation.

the ps pump im fairly certain is the same pump.if not,it doesn't seem to matter lol.
but yes,grab it's reservoir to swap to yours,so you'll have the return line fitting.
p.s.
what a steal you lucky sob.

 

[towcat]

Thanks for bringing this up

I am contemplating buying a 88 F-superduty to rob the 5 sped trans and Hydroboost for my 97.

Can I use everything form the 88(hydroboost) in my 97, or do I need some different part

brad-
the pressure line from the '97 may be different in fitting style.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

that's what i discovered when researching too,and soon realized to just order '96 parts.good luck figuring out which lines you need Brad lol.too bad i didn't save the site where i read it,cus the guy knew exactly the build date changes.you'll figure it out easy enough if you need a couple new lines though.
i think (this is kinda rare,and why i remember it) amazon.com knew the difference between the lines in 97 too,so that might help ya figure it out.

 

[bike-maker]

I'm currently running the cast iron MC that has been slotted to fit on a bricknose vacuum booster, so it will fit, and afterwards I will verify which bolt pattern it really is.
I'm going to swipe the whole power steering pump; mine is starting to make death noises.

 

[sle2115]

I ran my stock master cylinder on my 87 with a little work. The I switched to the super duty one and prefer it. As Towcat has said, you have to play nicely with the brake pedal, but it's not hard to get used to. I had a guy pull out in front of me about a week ago in his little car and I literally locked up all 6 wheels (DRW), but it did take some effort (wasn't just a touch on the pedal). I love mine and I'm sure that you will notice much better brakes with either master cylinder, but the true performance on mine was with the complete package!

 

[bghnkinf350]

Grab the master too - night and day difference! If nothing else, you will have a core!

 

[riotwarrior]

Ok grab...

-Brake pedal is a MUST HAVE as the pin is in different location...or relocate your pin to this same point
.....but get it none the less...I just had my pedal cut off and the Hydro boost one cut and welded onto my pedal location....was simple and $20 was worth it!

-Pushrod from pedal into Booster it actually just stays attached to booster

-Master Cylinder...JUST IN CASE! better to have n not need than need n not have it...

-All the booster and powersteer lines for the booster and pump.

The adapter plate that the booster mounts too has studs those studs are not in the correct location for our trucks. either redrill the firewall..not a good idea..weld the adpater plate up after removing the studs and redrill it! (GOODER IDEA) and is what I am doing. I'll see about some pics of this later...wife's got breakfast on the go


Remove the High pressure line from the pump..remove the large fitting that HP line fits into, into the pump. Careful there is a little spring and funny doohicky in there that pushes out against that fitting.

Once that fitting is removed and there are no other lines on the pump can...carefully twist the can from side to side and slide off the back of the pump..Grab that large O ring...NOW you have the correct 3 fitting Reservoir or (can), no need to swap pumps or pulleys...keep all the fittings BTW.

That would likely be sufficient for parts removal then you can install that can onto your pump because it's easier to remove the can with hand tools than to fart around with pulleys etc!

JM2CW and hope this helps

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

it sure is nice being able to stop our heavy setups.even be able to lock up DRW.now you guys have me contemplating upgrading my master.
mines (all brand new parts) really firm though.takes some effort to push the pedal.it has greatly eased up over the last month though.getting a bit broken in i guess (clearly beyond me just getting used to it,so i know it's not just in my head lol) because i haven't found myself using both feet on the pedal anymore,where at first i had too for any sort of comfort while driving.

Ok grab...

-Brake pedal is a MUST HAVE as the pin is in different location...or relocate your pin to this same point
.....but get it none the less...I just had my pedal cut off and the Hydro boost one cut and welded onto my pedal location....was simple and $20 was worth it!

on this one (could explain the very firm brake pedal) i haven't gotten a for sure,direct answer to;
does this apply to just the manual shift trucks,or is in fact the auto brake pedal's different as well?

 

[sle2115]

I'm not sure about the auto's, mine's now a ZF5. I bought a new master cylinder for $60 for the super duty and it was worth every penny. Mine stopped better just adding the hydroboost, and I had a new vacuum booster on it, but it stops AWESOME now. As towcat told me, just make sure you don't have anything not bolted down with the SD master cylinder, cause it will move if and when you clamp down the brakes! Had me nervous, but in my case, it's managable and not like it locks them up when you just touch the brake pedal...nice to know you can when you need to though and my truck scales at about 7500 empty with the flat bed and hoist add ons. I hauled just under 4 ton of limestone on it in some very hilly country a couple weeks ago...brakes worked flawlessly and I never wanted for more pedal as I have in the past with vac booster. I also have ALL new brake parts, lines, hoses, calipers, shoes, pads, etc. Well, they were all new 4 years ago, but they prolly don't have 5000 miles on them.

 

[towcat]

I need to step in a clear this up.
there is a need for the proper brake pedal for installing hydro on the 80-91 trucks. on the 92-97 trucks, there is no part number difference between the hydro and non-hydro brakes. therefore, the non-hydro brake pedal will will work on the 92-97 hydro swaps.
Also, to clarify Scott's comments... be sure you do not have any loose objects floating around in the cab of the truck. when you panic brake a hydro equipped truck, the truck will stop before the loose good do and they will launch to the forward point of the truck.