injection pump questions

Goose_ss4

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does anybody know if it is possible to replace the internals of the injection pump to work better. like different head/ flywheel distributor, and cam. its the cam the same modification limited to slow more fuel in to more long internal valve openings? and put bigger fuel fittings a well. let just see how we can make this thing run.
 

flareside_thun

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You've never had one of these DB2 pumps apart have you? Easier said than done.... You basically just described a Moose pump anyhow...
 

rhkcommander

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taking them apart and putting them together isn't the problem, but to get them calibrated and aall requires a very spendy flow machine...

The stock fuel pump gets ~60cc of fuel, the moose pump gets 90cc, super moose pump gets 120cc. I've heard numbers ranging from 150-200cc for some "db2s". For every 1cc of fuel I've heard its roughly equal to 2.2 rwhp but thats word of mouth afaik
 

ManicMike

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taking them apart and putting them together isn't the problem, but to get them calibrated and aall requires a very spendy flow machine...

The stock fuel pump gets ~60cc of fuel, the moose pump gets 90cc, super moose pump gets 120cc. I've heard numbers ranging from 150-200cc for some "db2s". For every 1cc of fuel I've heard its roughly equal to 2.2 rwhp but thats word of mouth afaik

But you also have to have matching air flow (A BIG TURBO) to use all that fuel. ;Really
 

johnnyb1

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You can turn up the rail pressure,change the timing. These are easy to do. But no way would I go inside it!! They are very sensitive. That's where the professionals come in. Besides,it takes more than just more fuel to make power. Alot of people would turn the fuel way up on the old Cummins & Cats just to have wasted $$$$ go out the stacks. I think most would agree with me on this.
 

Goose_ss4

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i agree that you need to the right amount of air to, so that you do not burn the damn thing down. there is plenty of turbos out there, so i am not to worried about that. of course you will have to make your own plumbing, but a good ball bearring one for a high performance powerstroke, cat, or other v-8's that have the same characteristics. my question is that we all know about cam shaft from hot rods and sbc, and that a good cmashaft can make or break your engine. i know type 4 and others are working on getting performance cams for the engine, but what about the pump? from what i understand about the pump cam shaft rotating opening and closing valves, and distrubtion wheel sending it to appropriate injectors. why can we get better/more fuel during this process?

also, just a side note. what about drill out the fitting to increase the size and fuel flow to run bigger lines? i also heard people talking about a DB4? what is that? DB2 older brother?
 

Goose_ss4

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also here is a little info i got off stanadyne site:

Mechanical Fuel Injection Pumps

MODEL DB2 & DB4

The majority of engines fitted to off-road applications continue to use mechanical pump-line-nozzle systems for Tier 3/Stage III A Emission certified engines. Stanadyne continues to develop new features for its family of rotary injection pumps that will assist engine manufacturers in achieving the latest emission standards.

For example, Stanadyne has introduced an improved cold advance - servo light load advance mechanism for its DB4 pumps with up to fourteen pump degrees of range. Cold advance is additive to the light load advance schedule rather than a fixed amount.

With appropriate selection of cam rate and nozzle flow, our mechanical pumps can generate up to 800 bar at the injector. Initial injection rate can be softened with an increasing rate cam and Stanadyne's Rate Shaping Nozzle injector technology. The combination of these features lead to an ability to further retard injection timing and lower NOx emissions.

FEATURES

Capacities to 30 kW (40 BHP) per cylinder
Peak injection pressure to 800 bar (11,600 PSI)
2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and 8 cylinder versions
Mechanical Governing to 3% regulation "Best in Class"
Built-in Automatic Advance
Electric Shut-off
Engine speeds to 4,000 ERPM
OPTIONS

Speed/Light Load Advance for optimized timing
Min/Max Governor for direct throttle response
Cold start and warm-up Timing Advance
Adjustable Speed Droop Governor for 3-5% regulation
Electronic Governor (Isochronous)
Low Speed Fuel Limiter (smoke and emissions reduction)
Locked Drive Shaft Timing
Components for low viscosity fuel usage
 

OLDBULL8

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does anybody know if it is possible to replace the internals of the injection pump to work better. like different head/ flywheel distributor, and cam. its the cam the same modification limited to slow more fuel in to more long internal valve openings? and put bigger fuel fittings a well. let just see how we can make this thing run.

Oh yeah you can do all of that. Just search on here about IP's, you'll have more reading for the next month or so. Agnem (or his source) can build you a pump probably to do all that and Type4 (or his source) can regrind a cam to compliment that, probably for around $2000>< with special injectors. But if you have about a quarter million bucs for machinery you could do it yourself. Have no idea what a temperature/humidity controlled building would cost to house all that equipment. :dunno
 

Agnem

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does anybody know if it is possible to replace the internals of the injection pump to work better. like different head/ flywheel distributor, and cam. its the cam the same modification limited to slow more fuel in to more long internal valve openings? and put bigger fuel fittings a well. let just see how we can make this thing run.

We get these questions a few times a month. Perfectly natural, as everybody including me wishes it was real easy to do, and that somebody could just do a tech article and wah lah... instant horsepower. I got so tired of seeing these threads that I decided to do something about it, and thus the Moose Pump was born. But I did it the only way it can be done reliably, and repeatably. I went to a guy who knew his stuff and had the tools and equipment to make it a reality. There are 100 parts and 20 adjustments that all interact with each other. Getting them set up right requires trial and error, being able to measure each change and getting it dialed in. This can by done by happenstance by an individual, dedicated to the task of installing and removing a pump from an engine on a dyno a thousand times to get everything right, or it can be done by a trained person that does this for a living and has the machine that measures everything and tells you what to turn and how much. The actual work of changing the internals to do what you want is easy. It may NOT be cheap. Stanadyne loves their parts, and tries to hold on to each one like it was gold. So add to this, the ability to do it cost effectively, and now you have the idea of why there are no tech articles on how to do what your asking about.
 
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