Rebuild or Replace 7.3 Turbo Engine???

[Todd C]

Well, some of you may remember that my 7.3 died back in September, and I was going to sell or part out the truck. So far I have done nothing... I am now planning to at least pull the engine and get far enough into it to see what happened. I expect to find some bearing problems. I don't have money to put into it right now, but I am HOPING that by spring I may be able to at least start rebuilding, or maybe even replace it with a reman'd turbo long block. Either way, I'd like to re-use my Hypermax turbo, and upgrade it to a turbo IDI. What would I need to do that? I know the piston pins are bigger, so I'd need new pistons and connecting rods at least. Can you give me some suggestions on what else I might do to it, if I decide to rebuild my engine? I'd like to make sure this rebuild lasts...
Thanks
Todd

 

[88 Ford]

I'm glad to hear that you are rebuilding the motor. Your truck looks like it is in good shape. It doesn't look like a parting truck. If i was you I would do upgrades when you rebuild it. Maybe a Moose Pump because it doesn't cost much more than a regular reman pump. Maybe some head studs too for head gasket reliability since it is turboed.

 

[hesutton]

Todd, I remember your delemma this past fall. I too am very glad to hear you are not parting out the truck. I think rebuilding it is the best way to go. It is too nice of a truck to part out and you've put a lot of work into it to sell it off as well.

Keep us posted on what you find.

Heath

 

[sassyrel]

todd---the exhaust vavles are icononickel--the turbo wrist pins are 33 m/m instead of 30 m/m----so, new valves, rods, and pistons, and you have a turbo engine-------someone also said they thought the block of the turbo had a higher nickel content--but that was never proven---and also i believe the tops of the turbo pistons had some sort of coating-------

 

[FordGuy100]

todd---the exhaust vavles are icononickel--the turbo wrist pins are 33 m/m instead of 30 m/m----so, new valves, rods, and pistons, and you have a turbo engine-------someone also said they thought the block of the turbo had a higher nickel content--but that was never proven---and also i believe the tops of the turbo pistons had some sort of coating-------

Dont forget he would need Connecting rods as well. There was some other minor things as well, nothing to major though if I remember right. G code injectors, the valley pan thing a magig where the turbo pedistal drains into is a better design I believe.

 

[farriswheel]

hey how many miles are on your truck?

 

[1dieselman]

I rebuilt the turbo 7.3 in my truck a couple of years ago and my $.02 is the worst part would be finding turbo connecting rods but I also don't think you will gain much unless you are going to be pushing the limits. I'm also not sure about a flywheel to use your C6 behind a factory turbo engine.

 

[92F350CC]

I think the turbo block also has bigger oil squirters.

 

[1dieselman]

I think the turbo block also has bigger oil squirters.

IIRC they are the same. I had to replace a couple because the original engine busted a piston in half and then the rod and pin punched up through the cylinder wall Lots of carnage.

 

[Todd C]

Great information! That's what I was looking for...
So sounds like if I rebuild my block I need to get the rods, pistons and valves, at least. Are the studs necessary for the 7.3 since it has bigger head bolts than the 6.9? I am also considering a reman'd turbo long block from Promarengine in NJ. Their rebuild sounds pretty good, if I can come up with the money. I am guessing that rebuilding my engine would be a little cheaper. I talked to the local International dealer today and found out what machine shop they use for their rebuilds. Hopefully this weekend I can get started on pulling the engine. That kind of stuff goes slow for me this time of year since the truck doesn't fit in the garage.
Todd

 

[david85]

I remember your dilama too, Todd. I'm glad you are thinking about giving the truck another chance.

Bottom line is there is no real way of knowing what you will need until you pull the engine apart. I personally don't think you need to go to larger piston pins and the con rods that come with them. They add more reciprocating weight, and frankly, how much power do you really need this engine to make?

250Hp from an IDI is enough for most situations because they make so much bottom end torque with that. There are a LOT of turbocharged 6.9s and 7.3 IDIs out there that are holding up just fine with the smaller wrist pins.

 

[icanfixall]

Stock non turbo piston pin size is 28mm. The turbo pins are 33mm. Building a turbo 7.3 is easy. Ford still sells the turbo rods and Direct Diesel in Florida had 2 pallets full of them. No core either. I have several sets but am holding on to them for now. Someday they will be impossible to find. The exhaust valves are inconel material and Hypermax sells them. Figure around $34.00 per valve. Everything else is the same for turbo and non turbo 7.3 motors. Have your block sleeved and not bored. Do not mill the heads. Mahle sells turbo and non turbo pistond in both low compression or standard compression. Figure around $550.00 per set of 8 with rings. Check Ebay for gaskets. I paid around $50.00 for 2 sets of valve job gaskets. They usually cost around $100.00 for that set. Don't use the pan gasket. It will leak soon. Use RTV and it will never leak. Have your cam reground or buy another cam. again, Ebay is the place to be looking. I paid $15.00 for a new cam. Ford and International will charge you around $800.00 for the same thing. Northern Autoparts sells cams on the cheap side so look them up. I feel aftermarket heads are superiour to the OEM heads but... They need some cleaning up in the port areas. They are thicker decks for better holding strength. Alabama Cylinder Heads sells them cheaper than anyone else but again Ebay is a good place to be looking. I paid $102.50 for a set of new bare heads with no shipping charges. You just can't beat that price... Glad to see you are keeping the truck too...

 

[david85]

Thats strange. I paid about $250 for a set of pistons with pre-gapped rings already installed, and I'm in canada. The engine machinist that sold me the parts said it was a good deal. I guess he was right.

 

[typ4]

1.110" 28.19mm vs 1.308" 33.22mm wrist pin diameter. Not that big of deal in my opinion, I would spend money on studs, shorter height pistons and new valves. And balancing, soooo smooth now. I should do a build thread on my engine , it was pretty.

 

[david85]

What did it cost to do the ballancing? I didn't bother with mine because I knew I would never have to go past 2500 RPM if I didn't want to.