Overhead Gauge Cluster

[ISPKI]

So ive been doing some electrical work on my Slug, adding gauges for the turbo system and what not. I have always kind of disliked the pillar pods that people normally use and I have always liked the idea of the overhead wooden consoles made by Centurion.

Well, I have an ancient bridgeport mill now so I went ahead and started building my own!

This is the driver side panel. The gauges slot in at a 20 degree angle facing the driver and the top and bottom of that piece are cut at a 15 degree angle. This puts the gauges at a compound angle facing the driver. Plan is to run the gauge wires thru the top windshield trim and in thru a port on the front of the box.

The bottom of the box is going to have a hinged plate so I can access the wiring inside.

Once I get this installed, I may extend it all the way to the back of the cab roof and incorporate a storage compartment, the cab light, speakers, etc etc.

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[Kizer]

NICE!
I've got the materials to start my overhead gauge pod.
You've inspired my to get back on the project!

 

[IDIBOBS]

Looks great keep us updated on the finished product. We bounce to much for anything above or near our heads in our truck but this looks great for a road truck.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I guess that the good news is that you didn't need much coolant for your mill with this project.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

That's pretty slick!!

 

[ISPKI]

Looks great keep us updated on the finished product. We bounce to much for anything above or near our heads in our truck but this looks great for a road truck.

Ya know I was actually thinking about that issue. It hangs down about 3 1/4" from the ceiling and I can absolutely see myself smashing my head on it. I'm actually thinking I might put the assembled box in the mill again and cut the walls down as close to the gauges as I can get. Theres about an inch of wood below the gauges that really isnt serving much of a purpose.

The only saving grace is that I have a wood cup holder/arm rest in the middle seat so nobody can sit there anyways.

 

[ISPKI]

I guess that the good news is that you didn't need much coolant for your mill with this project.

Ya I am only really using it as a glorified drill press most of the time with some very light milling on the side, and alot of wood work. My wife has a small business making wood signs and a bunch of other stuff and I came up with a wood engagement ring box to add to her shop. I use the mill to get the hinge pockets and cutouts just right so its going to be babied for the rest of it's life (probably for the rest of my life realistically).

This is one of the styles that I make out of a cherry burl that I harvested years ago. Only thing missing is the top cushion - I usually peel the cushion out of the ring maker's box and fit it in to represent the local goldsmith.

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[ISPKI]

NICE!
I've got the materials to start my overhead gauge pod.
You've inspired my to get back on the project!

I am trying to figure out how to mold it to match the curve of the ceiling. Thinking i'm going to make an inner core of cheap construction grade wood like this 2x4 and left over CDX. Get that mounted and wired in, then plate everything in something nice looking like 1/4" oak or maple cabinet panels and fit those to the shape of the ceiling.

 

[ISPKI]

Testing the fit and mounting for the rough box. Still might take it off and mill it down some but the gauges fit perfectly, wiring fits perfectly. Just gotta figure out the hinged bottom trap door and trim it out.

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[Kizer]

It's looking good sir!

Just in case that you're interested in my $2 (5 years ago it would have been my 2 cents), I believe that I'd consider lowering the profile as much as possible.

Additionally, if you haven't checked the McMaster-Carr website, they have hinges that may inspire you.

 

[ISPKI]

Thats exactly where I am looking actually. Here is the initial design I sketched up with an electrical port and hinged bottom plate.

What I could do is cut out the ceiling fabric and seat this right against the metal. That would likely save over 1/2". Then, shave the bottom down in the mill, might be able to get another 1/2" from that. Last bit would be to eliminate the 1/2" plywood top plate somehow, maybe replace it with a panel of sheet metal or put long fasteners thru the sides, could save 1.5" total with those three ideas. I might also just completely change the design and turn the gauges 90 degrees and have them face directly at me instead instead of running down the side.

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[IDIBRONCO]

This is one of the styles that I make out of a cherry burl that I harvested years ago.

One of the good things about working with cherry, at least to me, is that even the sanding dust smells like cherries.
It's looking pretty good. I couldn't stand having that there. It would drive me absolutely nuts, but it's a good thing that I'm not everybody.

 

[Cubey]

One of the good things about working with cherry, at least to me, is that even the sanding dust smells like cherries.
It's looking pretty good. I couldn't stand having that there. It would drive me absolutely nuts, but it's a good thing that I'm not everybody.

Yeah, having to turn my head to the side would drive me crazy. I don't even like having to look over to the right on the center of the dash up top, where someone home/custom made a gauge pod cluster. The boost gauge is the only thing there right now, since I removed the dead Banks egt gauge, and put the new Autometer one in a universal pillar gauge pod. i like the pillar location, myself. but also I'm in a van, I'd suffer repeated head trauma having something a wooden block in the center, because i pass through between the front seats.

 

[ISPKI]

Ive been doodling around with how to finish trimming this thing out and I think im just going to leave it as-is and work on a rev B version. The gauges running down the side is kind of annoying, easy to see the front two gauges (which is all I am using currently) but the 3rd and 4th positions are too far back, partially because I spaced them out too far.

Planning on instead turning them 90 degrees and just have them facing straight back on a sloped piece right at the edge of the windshield, similar to the 1st image below. Then map the ceiling curve with cardboard and extend the trim all the way to the back of the cab with a low profile piece.

Lastly, the rear will have another part that hangs down for overhead storage or maybe for a pair of small speakers. We'll see where that leads as we come out of winter.

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