DB2 vs DB4 pump
- Thread starter Daniel McCurdy
- Start date
CBRF3
Full Access Member
No I have not but anymore I learned not to push the limits I got kids and my time and money is now limited and well I no longer try to shoot myself in the foot by overdoing it 225hp and 500ftlb of torgue is plenty for me and a hopped up stock pump can easily push this and then some add a custom HX40 and a good intercooler and I am good to go I don't need or want to push the limits anymore i found those limits and well have found where these motors are happy 250-275 hp and 600-650 ftlb of torgue is where i found your reliability drops off heavily.
The only thing I really feel I need to do is the TYP4 torgue cam which I will order one soon just have not had time to really tear my other motor down nor the time to swap my old tired motor out.
The truth is you don't need tons of power slow and steady wins the race is a good moto for our old IDI's and well to be honest if maintenance is done well and you don't set motor to kill and drive like a person with a brain these old engines / trucks will get the job done day in and day out with almost 0 issues International overbuilt our motors for reliability and simplicity for a reason. I will gladly add 10-15 minutes to my tow for the reliability / simplicity and well I have towed some very crazy loads with my trucks / motors and with little to no issues yes in the hills it take a while longer and requires down shifting but it is very acceptable if done correctly. The point is as long as we are around 250hp and 550-600ftlb of torgue we are good to go in nearly any situation.
Last edited:
Daniel McCurdy
Full Access Member
I would use the dt360 but I haven't been able to find anyone that was able to make it work with a mechanical fan. Electric fans just don't move enough air to cool while towing especially with lots of hp.
CBRF3
Full Access Member
Look into a hydraulic driven radiator fan they get theyre power from the power steering pump just a hint alot of high output cars that have shoe horned in V8 motors and even larger engines do this jaguar / ferrari / lambo / bugati / MClaren / BMW / mercedes and many more along with bobcats / JCB and many tractors and such also do this just thought would put it out there there are options just got to use your noggin to find solutions to your issues or think outside of the norm and adapt and overcome. I put a cat 3208 in a F350 and have done the DT466 swap into a old 4x4 f250 high boy and mated it with the 6speed manual out of a flipped over trash truck and divorced Tcase and military 5ton axles it has tractor boyancy / floatation tires on it and need a ladder to get in it and will literally float on a lake trust me i got in trouble driving it out on a lake.
I will advise if go a hydraulic fan make sure you add a cooler on the return to the pump reservior the hydraulic fluid / power steering fluid temp is main failure of these fan assemblies trick is to keep the fluid cool not insanely hot so the fluid dont oxidize / break down and turn acidic and this is a wise thing to do especially if have hydro boost setups anyways as this is also main killer of those units also.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Last edited:
Daniel McCurdy
Full Access Member
That is a good idea but length is the issue even in a super duty there's just not enough room to fit anything. The only way I could see it would be in a 08-10 ford truck as the whole radiator support is moved forward a few inches
CBRF3
Full Access Member
nope you can set these hydraulic fans as a pusher unit and mount in front of radiator / intercooler so that conclusion you just said is null and void. I want to also point out these hydraulic fan assemblies are really skinny and often skinnier than even a electric fan setup.
also there is a thing called modifying the firewall a sledge hammer grinder / welder and some sheet metal is your friend it took a ton or forcive persuasion and cutting and welding to fit that cat 3208 in trust me it was brutal but afterwards the thing was insane. I can say this also I did a crazy setup once where I cut the fenders and added to them to stretch the actual nose a bit and relocated the front fender mounts and got 4-6 inches added some do even more again your talking custom and well stretching a fender in this method is not to hard or time consuming and can eleviate alot of headaches again KISS theory ( keep it simple stupid ) use your noggin and find a solution adapt and overcome think outside of the box and make your own box to play in if needed. This is the point of doing this kind of modifications / upgrades to make it your own and to suit your purpose / use and again prove to yourself and others it can be done not just run with the norm and do a cummins swap and be like every other guy out there with a ordinary truck that you cannot really say you did other than buy the kit and put it in.
I will say this also alot of times can redo the radiator mounting tabs and flip them to move rad farther down and forward or swap out to a different style of rad the fits between the current rad support but is thicker to keep the cooling capacity and move it forward and relocate the fill setup to be integrated into the upper rad hose and such. THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX ADAPT AND OVERCOME AND USE YOUR NOGGIN.
The entire point of these swaps are to make it your own 1 of a kind work horse or show piece or well just have the ability to say I can and I did. I bet you go into a diesel shop talk to guys that have done a swap and 90% of them are cummins swaps and when it comes down to it they bought a ordinary kit and did all the normal stuff nothing about it is theyre own twist on it or even 1 off I see no point in this you want a cummins truck in my eyes go buy a cummins dodge truck and be done with it. I do a swap to make things better and 1 of a kind my own twist or simply it was what I had access to and I made it work sometimes a deal lands in your lap you cannot walk away from and later you find something to put it in that is different
.
Last edited:
Daniel McCurdy
Full Access Member
Do you know of a large hydraulic fan like a 26in fan or bigger and where to find one.
CBRF3
Full Access Member
look online again they come in almost any size could want look in the agriculture / construction equipment like track hoes and excavators and bob cats and such even some semi's use them there are options out there just look around that is the entire point of this I look around and compare and find what I can afford and make work and go from there. I don't like to be plate fed suggested options I think outside of the box and adapt and overcome.
Daniel McCurdy
Full Access Member
So it seems the 8.3 Cummins rvs used them sounds like that system would work well. This may be the solution iv been looking for.
CBRF3
Full Access Member
your welcome remember think outside of the box don't just run with the norm that will make you lazy and ordinary challenge your mind it will keep you witty / savy and will also make it to where you weigh your options and are more flexible to keep within a budget and more adaptable to find solutions often times for very cheaply by doing this can find solutions that otherwise would break your bank account meaning you got more funds to spend on the addons and well creature comforts you know the essentials.
Last edited:
Daniel McCurdy
Full Access Member
I never even new hydraulic fans existed. This makes things a lot simpler
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
Every rear engine powered school bus uses a hydraulic fan like that, as well as most pusher rv/motorhomes.
I'd consider them semi-reliable. Less reliable then a mechanical fan in a front engine vehicle, but that's because in a rear engine setting the fan is used a lot more because of no natural forced air going through the radiator. With a front engine, you have a lot of air going through the radiator at speed, so a mechanical fan with a silicone clutch or an electric clutch is rarely used, and their failures are less apparent.
I've got a dt408 swap in my head and was going to use hydraulic fan over an electric one. And as said earlier, a significant power steering cooler is necessary as well. A loop on the crossmember isn't going to cut it. My thoughts were to use a manual behind the dt, and then use the ATF cooler on the existing radiator as my power steering cooler.
I'd consider them semi-reliable. Less reliable then a mechanical fan in a front engine vehicle, but that's because in a rear engine setting the fan is used a lot more because of no natural forced air going through the radiator. With a front engine, you have a lot of air going through the radiator at speed, so a mechanical fan with a silicone clutch or an electric clutch is rarely used, and their failures are less apparent.
I've got a dt408 swap in my head and was going to use hydraulic fan over an electric one. And as said earlier, a significant power steering cooler is necessary as well. A loop on the crossmember isn't going to cut it. My thoughts were to use a manual behind the dt, and then use the ATF cooler on the existing radiator as my power steering cooler.
Daniel McCurdy
Full Access Member
Would you happen to know what kind of gpm and psi these fan motors require can't find that info anywhere
CBRF3
Full Access Member
its not alot honestly a small power steering pump can run them.
