Fuel tank decision.

[notenuftime]

Haven't posted in a while, truck has been running great lol. Till I decided to go on a fishing trip and my FSV valve failed and no fuel. I replace the FSV about three years ago and have inline pre-filters before the valve and it still failed. Dropped the front tank and found it to be all types of funky, maybe I got bad fuel along the line some where.
So here's my thoughts at the end of the day. I don't want to put another FSV valve in, im on a tight budget and are thinking about getting a new stock rear tank, wish I could afford a 30gallon! And just running rear tank. Forgot to mention I want to replace the rear cause it had a slow leak forming and the front is nasty.

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And opinions or thoughts.
Need to wrap this project up soon, thanks.

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[notenuftime]

And I just checked the parts store and I can get a new 18 gallon rear for 100$ so...

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

You can get the 38 gal bronco tank for just a little more than that shipped at Rock Auto or Amazon or whoever has the best prices these days. I got mine for $120 I think years ago and it's up to $135 or something last I checked.

If that's not in your budget then get what you have to get.

FWIW I had a FSV "die" on me years ago and I bypassed it. Years later I bench tested it and after dissasembly(found nothing wrong), I put it back together with some light lube and it worked fine. The trick for me is to cycle the darn thing like 10 times every time you get fuel. Never a hiccup since then, been running it for about 3 years like that.

 

[notenuftime]

Am I able to just run the tank lines straight to filter leaving the switch out?
I'll still have gauge power right?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You will if you leave the FSV on the tank you want to use and then bypass it. I've been running this way for over 4 years now with no issues. I do miss the extra fuel capacity though.

 

[notenuftime]

AQUOTE="IDIBRONCO, post: 1061613, member: 13857"]You will if you leave the FSV on the tank you want to use and then bypass it. I've been running this way for over 4 years now with no issues. I do miss the extra fuel capacity though.[/QUOTE]
Sorry i didn't quite understand.
If I run the lines with no sector valve and one tank will my fuel gauge still read and everything work?

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Am I able to just run the tank lines straight to filter leaving the switch out?
I'll still have gauge power right?

The fuel will work that way but the gauges run through the selector valve. So the easiest way is you'd need to leave it on the frame and just bypass it with fuel line. Then all the wiring would stay put and gauges would work.
The harder way would be to isolate the wires and wire them directly then you could remove the FSV. But going back to stock would be a pain if you ever wanted to. Making the connections water/salt proof will be pivotal.

And once you do that I *think* you can unplug the selector switch in the cab so it won't try to change tanks on you if it gets pressed.

 

[notenuftime]

The fuel will work that way but the gauges run through the selector valve. So the easiest way is you'd need to leave it on the frame and just bypass it with fuel line. Then all the wiring would stay put and gauges would work.
The harder way would be to isolate the wires and wire them directly then you could remove the FSV. But going back to stock would be a pain if you ever wanted to. Making the connections water/salt proof will be pivotal.

And once you do that I *think* you can unplug the selector switch in the cab so it won't try to change tanks on you if it gets pressed.

Ok, so im just going to leave the front tank out and do the valve.
Do the fuel line ports for the front tank on the FSV need to be capped?
Or do I not even need to run the fuel lines into the valve, just leave it on the frame and plug in the harness??

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

You can bypass the FSV completely with the rear fuel lines. No fuel hooked up to it.

And if you don't care about the unit you don't have to cap them.

Yes you can just leave it on the frame and plug in the harness. If it's already out of the vehicle you can remount it in front of the tank where it's not such a PITA to get to.

 

[notenuftime]

Awesome! Thanks.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

 

[franklin2]

You can bypass the FSV completely with the rear fuel lines. No fuel hooked up to it.

And if you don't care about the unit you don't have to cap them.

Yes you can just leave it on the frame and plug in the harness. If it's already out of the vehicle you can remount it in front of the tank where it's not such a PITA to get to.

The valve is broken and stuck. What if it's stuck on the front tank, and he wants to run the rear tank sending unit? I would take the valve out, and splice the proper wires together.

He is going to run the rear tank, so all he has to do is find the yellow/white stripe wire which goes to the gauge in the dash, and find the yellow/lightblue stripe wire which goes to the rear sending unit, cut them and splice them together. These wires are located in the valve plug in connector. Then he will be permanently on the rear tank. If the dash switch accidentally got hit and the old valve did decide to move, you would not have to worry about that scenario either.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

The valve is broken and stuck. What if it's stuck on the front tank, and he wants to run the rear tank sending unit? I would take the valve out, and splice the proper wires together.

He is going to run the rear tank, so all he has to do is find the yellow/white stripe wire which goes to the gauge in the dash, and find the yellow/lightblue stripe wire which goes to the rear sending unit, cut them and splice them together. These wires are located in the valve plug in connector. Then he will be permanently on the rear tank. If the dash switch accidentally got hit and the old valve did decide to move, you would not have to worry about that scenario either.

Oh i missed the stuck part... BUT I'm pretty darn sure the valve itself doesn't have to physically move for the electrics to read off the rear tank. It's instant when you hit the switch, doesn't matter what the valve is doing. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that is how it works.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Oh i missed the stuck part... BUT I'm pretty darn sure the valve itself doesn't have to physically move for the electrics to read off the rear tank. It's instant when you hit the switch, doesn't matter what the valve is doing. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that is how it works.

I think you're right on this.

 

[catbird7]

Removing the valve from the fuel system simply requires bypassing the supply and return lines around it. No need modifying the wiring so long as you remember the FSV switch in the dash only controls the gauge reading.