Water Pump Time

[RANOVRU]

Do you want to fight it next time with a fubared nut or do you want to take it off easy while spending 50 bucks (I think).

Actually $130-160 for a new clutch. Already priced them through every major AP store in my area.

And a cold chisel is a hand tool, not an air tool. Available at any hardware store.

Ill have to check into that.

 

[RLDSL]

I appreciate the SO part #'s but like I said Im not trying wait any longer to get this thing swapped out.

The flats are left on the nut, just the corners are rounded. Regardless at this pont Im probably just going to go ahead and get a new clutch so theres no battling getting back on or ever having to take it off in the future. I just hope I can get the *****'D one off with available hand tools...

Chances are your local snappy dealer has that stuff on the truck and even when they don't , they will usually have an order drop shipped that will arrive at your house the next day. Their stuff is costy, but you do get good service
If thats out of range, take a good look at those things, you can get a nice heavy duty wrench 48mm or the SAE equivilant that will work at Harbor freight even You just need one with enough meat on it to not spread out when a heavy load is applied. I know Crapsman carries those sizes at larger stores too, and the holder could easily be fabricated out of a chunk of bar stock. Most Napa stores also carry a quality wrench that size, so you aren't completely up against a wall if theres enough left for a wrench to grab onto

If it's past that point, you are going to have to use an air hammer to remove teh thing, at which point, it's new water pump time. Your pump wasn't built to handle those kinds of shock loads

 

[fields_mj]

Go down to NAPA, buy an Irwin chain style strap wrench, and a 1 7/8" combination wrench. They will **** you on both of them. The strap wrench goes on the pully. The chain on my strap wrench was almost too short. I have to use the short leg on a 5/32" allen wrench to go through the holes in the last link in order to make it work, but it does work and works well. I did the same thing you did with the rental tools, and it didn't round the nut on mine very badly. The 1/7/8" wrench grabbed it just fine.

Had I listened to who ever it was on here who told me to get these two tools first, I would have saved myself a serious headache, some busted knuckles, and some $$ and gone somewhere other than NAPA, but since mine is also my DD, and I had to have the wifes car back before she left for work at 1:00, I just went to NAPA and spent the money.

 

[G.W BUFFALO]

I broke down and just got a new fan clutch, cost me 55.00 from rockauto..

 

[RANOVRU]

Ok guys Im going to return the crap tool kit today and hunt for a better quality wrench. Ive heard 1 7/8, 47mm, and 48mm. Whats going to be the tightest fit??


Also, as I mentioned the new clutches run anywhere $130-180. I can get a nice big elect fan for $50-80. Moneys already tight so I very well may do that and that will also allow me to not have to mess with the shroud again when putting back together. So when I go to put everything back together, not havng the nut/clutch on the pump pulley isnt going to affect anything there is it?

 

[G.W BUFFALO]

You can get a new fan clutch from Rockauto.com for about 55.00, i just ordered mine few days ago.. Can't beat the price, and your gonna need a serius fan to keep a 7.3 cool. I looked into it, figure 200 bucks for a good pair of e-fans and the t-stats, wiring and stuff.. Unless you want to hack it that is..

 

[snicklas]

OK... a bit off topic... at least engine wise......

I need to replace the Water Pump in my 6.0..... does anyone know if the newer ones use the same setup... I know it is an "electronic" fan, where it is told to turn on and off by the PCM.... but is still a clutch fan...... I want to make sure before I have to work on it and get the correct tools in-hand before I cut the fan shroud off and start to work....

 

[OLDBULL8]

It's a LEFT hand thread, you turn it CLOCKWISE to screw it OFF, it also has thread lock on it from the factory, a little heat on it goes a long way in taking it off. When you put it back on tighten the **** out of it with a little BLUE Loctite on the threads.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...?counter=0&itemIdentifier=77869_201571_0_4856

 

[G.W BUFFALO]

It's a LEFT hand thread, you turn it CLOCKWISE to screw it OFF, it also has thread lock on it from the factory, a little heat on it goes a long way in taking it off. When you put it back on tighten the **** out of it with a little BLUE Loctite on the threads.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...?counter=0&itemIdentifier=77869_201571_0_4856

Now i was told antiseeze and just snug it up good. Wich made sence to me, i mean it's reverse thread so it wont come loose.. Wich is it, i dont wanna have to cut it off next time.

 

[icanfixall]

Blue loctite on the fan nut threads. Never use the anti sieze. Tighten it up tight. 165 lbs torque is what it requires. If its not tightened properly it will unscrew when you stop the engine. This is a known fact no matter what others say. Its happened to a few members over the years here. If and when you need to remove the fan clutch next time get the proper well built wrenches. The tols I bought from Nappa years ago were $80.00 but they work very well. No spreading or slipping ever. They also have a 1/2 inch drive fitting so I can use my 18 and 36 inch breaker bars on them. Those bars allow me the advantage of adding more pressure to reach the 165 lbs torque easier. Also easier to remove next time too. Only once did I need some heat to remove the clutch. I used the nut wrench to shield the fan clutch shaft seal during this short 15 second heating time. Almost fell off them.

 

[George D.]

Even though they are revers thread when you shut the engine off the fan trys to keep going and can come off. If you put lock tite on it just heat the nut to melt the loctite when you need to remove it.

 

[RANOVRU]

Im aware of the left thread nut. It says it right on the shroud.


As for the E-fan the one Im looking at flows 2,500cfm without a shroud. I will be reusing the factory one because with an E-fan it wont be a hassle like with the stock clutch fan, and with the shroud it should be fine. I dont see the stocker flowing any more than 2,500 at idle (or at a stop), which is really the only time a fans nessessary. The performance shop Id be getting it from Ive known the owner for years. He said he had the exact same fan with the factory shroud on a highly modded big block gasser complete with all accessories including A/C, and it ran cool as a cucumber. Its a $70 fan and $40 for the therm. And I wont ever have to mess with that darned clutch nut again.


As I mentioned I needed this truck back a running like yesterday so I really dont want to have to order something and wait another couple of days or worse yet, after the holidays, to get parts.


Whats the best fit for the wrench?? Ive heard 1 7/8", 47mm, and 48mm. Im having trouble finding a 1 7/8" ANYWHERE locally, but Harbor Freight has a set that includes a 48mm. Would that work???



Thanks again, Jon

 

[fields_mj]

Now i was told antiseeze and just snug it up good. Wich made sence to me, i mean it's reverse thread so it wont come loose.. Wich is it, i dont wanna have to cut it off next time.

The reverse thread keeps it from wanting to unscrew when the clutch kicks in, and while its running. When the engine stops with the clutch engauged, the inertia of the fan will make it want to unscrew. Diesel's have a higher compression than gassers, so when we shut the engine off, they stop with a jerk, and that jerk makes this condition a lot worse. Thus the use of the blue loctite. I don't remember the specs, but various grades of loctite are made to disolve at various temps. Blue loctite has the lowest melt point, and is also the weakest. Red and various types of green disolve at higher temps and are ment to permenantly hold a fastener in place. Either way, the correct method of removeing something with any kind of loctite is to apply the correct amount of heat to disolve the loctite.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

OK... a bit off topic... at least engine wise......

I need to replace the Water Pump in my 6.0..... does anyone know if the newer ones use the same setup... I know it is an "electronic" fan, where it is told to turn on and off by the PCM.... but is still a clutch fan...... I want to make sure before I have to work on it and get the correct tools in-hand before I cut the fan shroud off and start to work....

yes same way. Except you have to cut the shroud where ford outlined to remove the upper half. Remove fan, then remove the stupid rear plastic surround that bolts to the front of the motor.

 

[snicklas]

yes same way. Except you have to cut the shroud where ford outlined to remove the upper half. Remove fan, then remove the stupid rear plastic surround that bolts to the front of the motor.

Thanks..... I knew about cutting the shroud out..... was an asinine design.... but when you put it in while the truck is disassembed.... you can put it in whole..... looks like I need to invest in a couple of tools before spring, and a coolant filter, and new coolant.... that should burn up a few hundred bucks.....