Water Pump Time
- Thread starter RANOVRU
- Start date
johneich
John, 1983 F250
All that I recall (might be more) it that the top two bolts are shorter than the rest, don't mix them up, the longer ones will pierce the water jacket, use RTV on the bolts when reassembling.
If you are going to take the fan off do it before you remove your fan belt(s) (to hold it) and I think that bolt is left hand thread, it will say on your shroud.
If you are going to take the fan off do it before you remove your fan belt(s) (to hold it) and I think that bolt is left hand thread, it will say on your shroud.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The top two bolts are a specific length. Don't mix them up or the injection pump gear will make contact with them because they stick thru the gear cover behind the water pump. Us trv on the top two and the bottom two. These 4 bolts reach into the oil side of the engine and will leak oil past the threads. Thats happened many times to members here so don't think your the first if it happens to you. The large fan nut is a left hand thread and requires a torque of 165 lbs when it tightened. Also use some blue loctite on those threads so it wont loosen up when the engine shuts down. That also has happend and the spinning fan eats up the radiator. I ue 3M weatherstrip cement to glue the gasket to the pump and then rtv or permatex avaition cement for the gasket to the plate seal. Rtv works best because it comes off easier later on when you replace the pump...
fields_mj
Full Access Member
Yup, don't mix the bolts up as mentioned by others. Also, get a chain style strap wrench that will go around the fan pulley in order to get the clutch off. I tried using the loaner wrench set that my local Advance Auto had, and it didn't even come close to touching it. With the strap wrench, it wasn't bad at all. I think I also bought the correct size combination wrench to fit the nut also, but I can't remember.
Mark
Mark
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
I'm noticing that certain remanned water pumps are starting to include the two top bolts in the kit.
Ok guys been a while since Ive messed with a clutch fan but Im not seeing how to get the clutch off. I figured there was a bolt in the center somewhere but all I see is a spring? What am I missing??
Also FWIW, after pulling the radiator Im really wanting to put an elect fan on and get rid of the shroud/clutch fan. Whoever made it so that the radiator has to come out in order to remove the shroud is a f'n '****....
Also FWIW, after pulling the radiator Im really wanting to put an elect fan on and get rid of the shroud/clutch fan. Whoever made it so that the radiator has to come out in order to remove the shroud is a f'n '****....
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Look at where the clutch connects to the water pump. That large nut is what you need to loosen from the pump. Its a 1 7/8 inch hex I think... Then you need to hold the water pump pulley from turning too. Remember this.. That large nut is left hand threads and it requires 165 lbs of torque to keep it on the pump. Many here use some blue loctite on that thread so it wont come loose. These engines have a very high compression ratio and when they stop running they shut down really qiuckly. That sudden stop can loosen the nut and the fan spins off into the radiator.. Its happened to several members and its ugly plus costly....
fields_mj
Full Access Member
Just like icanfixall said. Put your chain wrench on the pully, and the 1 7/8 wrench on the nut between the pully and the pump. I think I put a cheater on the handle of my chain wrench, and then it all came appart pretty easy. Then again, mine was all still factory stock with no loctite. Part of the advantage of having that big ol wrench is that it's long 
Thanks guys I see what youre talking about.
I dont have a wrench that big so Im off to the AP store to rent the kit.
One other question, if the nut is 165lbs and you cant get a torque wrench on it how do you tighten back to spec? I never seen a TQ wrench that wasnt a socket style???
I dont have a wrench that big so Im off to the AP store to rent the kit.
One other question, if the nut is 165lbs and you cant get a torque wrench on it how do you tighten back to spec? I never seen a TQ wrench that wasnt a socket style???
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It might work to use a crows foot on the torque wrench. I had to put a torch on my fan clutch nut then hit it with a chisel. Only one or two smacks with the chisel got it off. This is not the way to do it if you are going to reuse the wp though. It's not too hard to make you own 1 7/8" wrench either.
And the shroud will come off after you get the fan off. Otherwise you have to get the rad off like you said.
And the shroud will come off after you get the fan off. Otherwise you have to get the rad off like you said.
Simp5782
SNOW TACKLER!
let the wrench extend down and rest on the frame and spin the engine over to get it to loosen. Tightening back up do it the same way just the opposite frame rail. put a piece of cardboard over the radiator to protect it from nicks from getting the fan out. I need a waterpump im just being lazy bout it.
vegas39
Full Access Member
When I changed my water pump, I went to napa and bought the wrench for the big fan nut and the other tool that holds the whole works from turning while you tighten it.
My large nut wrench has a square hole in the end for putting a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar in the end and on top of that, I used a 2 foot piece of 3/4 inch pipe on the ratchet. I probably shoud have used a torque wrench but either way, that nut is tight and hasnt moved in two years.
My large nut wrench has a square hole in the end for putting a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar in the end and on top of that, I used a 2 foot piece of 3/4 inch pipe on the ratchet. I probably shoud have used a torque wrench but either way, that nut is tight and hasnt moved in two years.
Man this is turning into a nightmare...
So I pick up the "special" tool set and get home ready to knock this thing out and..the wrench that came in the kit just rounded every damn corner on the nut.
Any suggestions???
So I pick up the "special" tool set and get home ready to knock this thing out and..the wrench that came in the kit just rounded every damn corner on the nut.
Any suggestions???
If the nut is tight at all, those rental kits won't do it, nor will most of the thin tools supposedly made for the job, they just splay out and walk right over teh nut corners.
You need to get a HEAVY 48mm wrench, Snap on carried a nice one listed as a fan clutch wrench for 7.3 diesel, and then if you look on snappys website, they make a nifty orange holder that bolts onto the pulley bolts and rests against the frame ( it is actually for a powerchoke and you have to take a die grinder and open up 2 of the holes a bit to make it fit an IDI, but it's worth it , )and you can get all the leverage you need Dig back a few days or do a search for a recent post, I had links to these tools. If you are handy, you could easily make the holder. The snappy wrench is about 3 times as thick as the rental jobs , it's not going to round out the nut.
I dont care if the AP store I got this from sues me I wanted to share this with anyone whos thinking of renting one of these crappy "kits".
Notice the wear pattern on the contact area of the ear and how out of align they are...
I think I see the problem...
All that being said tom Im going to try a 15" pair of channel locks and a pipe wrench. Beyond that Im completely out of ideas.
BTW, since the nut is now FUBARD, can I get just the nut or is it by chance connected somehow to the clutch, meaning Id have to get a whole new clutch??
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Notice the wear pattern on the contact area of the ear and how out of align they are...
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
I think I see the problem...
You must be registered for see images attach
All that being said tom Im going to try a 15" pair of channel locks and a pipe wrench. Beyond that Im completely out of ideas.
BTW, since the nut is now FUBARD, can I get just the nut or is it by chance connected somehow to the clutch, meaning Id have to get a whole new clutch??
