Shop near Yuma AZ? bad water pump

[Cubey]

@Cubey I’m late to the party, and everyone please correct me where I’m wrong.....

The top of the water pump in Cubey’s photo has 2 aux ports that are plugged.

On my ‘92 van, one port goes to the rear HC and then to the back of the LH head. The 2nd port goes to the front HC and to the RH head. Would this routing aid in cooling water flow through the heads?

Cubey, under the rear hoses in your photo there is prolly a plug right there....

Well that's interesting. The Banks turbo kit has a custom piece for CDR venting (i think) on upper timing cover, so it blocks the extra port on the water pump.

And the normal one has an interesting mess of tees and pipes to feed the rear heater too. I'm guessing that smaller hose is the funky E4OD preheat thing?

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Those metal pipes there are heater lines. For a frame of reference, that's straight up from the tee in the first picture. I'm guessing this was all redone custom, but who knows since this is a "bus (non-school)". It looks to be all expensive green stripe hose, and a bit messy with an excessive length near the heater core, so it's probably been replaced at some point.

Now it could be that the heater core has been replaced too, for a non-AC version. If not, it probably has 5/8 to 3/4 reducers already. It's a nasty windy today and tomorrow, so I only stayed outside long enough to snap these pictures.

I have to get more gallon jugs to drain the radiator first of all, since I used 3 for draining the water out of the bug's gas tank. So maybe late next week I can start working on this, after I go to town for groceries on Tuesday.

Edit: the wind died down a bit so i looked around by the heater core, and i don't see any reducers. So unless it has 5/8" hose shoved on 3/4" barbs (can't hardly see, stuff in the way. could only see one connection) then maybe it does have a non-AC heater core. or it has 3/4" hose on the 5/8" steel line.

 

[Cubey]

I finally got the bad water pump pulled off. I couldn't figure out why it seemed stuck and I only had 13 bolts accounted for. One bolt right up top, right in front of my face, I kept missing seeing.

I've seen worse, from bad pumps scraping the plate.

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Found the cold idle advance sensor with a slightly bent blade and unplugged. Accidental I'm guessing. I'll clean it up and plug it back in.

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Non-Motorcraft thermostat was in it.

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I'm guessing you use rtv with this type of gasket too?

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I don't know if I'll get it all finished tomorrow or not... probably not. Hoping to at least get it mostly put back together, water pump and thermostat wise. Fan clutch, accessories, belts, refill might be another day. Or partly done tomorrow. I'll just have to see how much I can get done.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'm guessing you use rtv with this type of gasket too?

I like to because it makes clean up easier the next time. Just a thin coat on both sides is all you need to keep the gasket from acting like it's welded in place.

 

[Cubey]

I like to because it makes clean up easier the next time. Just a thin coat on both sides is all you need to keep the gasket from acting like it's welded in place.

Makes sense. I gotta stick rags in the holes and scrape off the gasket from the engine tomorrow. I was out of time for the day when I got the pump removed. Probably should have left it on to keep the holes covered but oh well, it's not too windy and it just rained a ton, so the dust isn't bad right now. If I can't find my blade scraper, an old credit card might work.

The old pump's bearing is noisy, as one would expect:

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[Cubey]

Pump is installed as well as new thermostat. Probably two more days of work. Probably none tomorrow, gonna be nasty windy again. i also put all hoses back on without clamps to keep out the dust.

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[Cubey]

Well this is gonna drag on a bit longer, as far as finishing. I decided to order a dual belt pulley for the Saginaw PS pump, because I have easy access to change the pulley right now, with the fan shroud out. Normally, you can't get to it.

Couldn't beat the price, under $18 with tax. Looks to be ones they made that didn't pass quality control for appearances (scratched up) so they're selling them cheaper on eBay. The same pulley, seemingly from the same company (Lares) would be $32.xx on RockAuto with tax+$10 shipping.

I figured this is a good thing to do. The WP is suppose to be driven by 3 belts, not 2, so maybe it had extra stress put on the WP bearing from the lack of the A/C belt helping to drive it. This will run two belts as CS-WP-PS. At the very least it should help put less stress on the belts. Come to think of it, I better order another new FleetRunner belt so everything will be new. I only ordered two previously. It's all the same belt for ALT & PS.

(edit: ordered another Gates FleetRunner 9580HD belt for $25 via Walmart with free shipping on $35+ with some other items I needed anyway, so it'll have all new heavy duty belts, none stretched unevenly)

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[Black dawg]

I finally got the bad water pump pulled off. I couldn't figure out why it seemed stuck and I only had 13 bolts accounted for. One bolt right up top, right in front of my face, I kept missing seeing.

I've seen worse, from bad pumps scraping the plate.

You must be registered for see images attach

Found the cold idle advance sensor with a slightly bent blade and unplugged. Accidental I'm guessing. I'll clean it up and plug it back in.

You must be registered for see images attach

Non-Motorcraft thermostat was in it.

You must be registered for see images attach

I'm guessing you use rtv with this type of gasket too?

You must be registered for see images attach

I don't know if I'll get it all finished tomorrow or not... probably not. Hoping to at least get it mostly put back together, water pump and thermostat wise. Fan clutch, accessories, belts, refill might be another day. Or partly done tomorrow. I'll just have to see how much I can get done.

Add an inline fuse to that cold advance switch while it is easy. Have seen soo many of those short out, takes out fuse links, same ones that power a few things, including fuel shut of sol.

 

[Cubey]

Add an inline fuse to that cold advance switch while it is easy. Have seen soo many of those short out, takes out fuse links, same ones that power a few things, including fuel shut of sol.

Eh maybe I'll just unplug it again. It starts ok without it. My F250 had a broken sensor and it didn't really matter much.

 

[Cubey]

Well that pulley was a waste of $16 and probably an hour of pulling the original off, starting to put on the new before realizing the offset was gonna make it line up with the alternator slot on CS & WP, and the stock PS slot, instead of the AC one. So it came back off and the original was put back on. They take returns but it'll probably cost $8-10 shipping so eh... I'll just toss it a box of spare IDI parts in the trailer (good gearbox with bad seals, etc), in case I might need it some day for some reason.

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[Cubey]

To be 100% sure that the fan clutch is tight, I went ahead and used the chain trick. Worked nicely. It's probably over the 45ft lb spec but I didn't go nuts.

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I'm waiting on 1/2" heater hose for the E4OD preheater line that comes from the bottom of the radiator, so I can't refill just yet. But that's good, maybe I'll remember something important I forgot to do

 

[Cubey]

To be 100% sure that the fan clutch is tight, I went ahead and used the chain trick. Worked nicely. It's probably over the 45ft lb spec but I didn't go nuts.

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I'm waiting on 1/2" heater hose for the E4OD preheater line that comes from the bottom of the radiator, so I can't refill just yet. But that's good, maybe I'll remember something important I forgot to do.

(edit: poking around, i forgot to fully tighten the engine side upper radiator hose! that kinda stuff ...)

Oh, and I also stuck on the O'Reilly lifetime warranty vacuum pump that was swiped from the RV, replaced with the used good spare I was carrying. The one that came on the van will now go under the seat as the emergency spare.