ocnorb
IDIT
Yep. My bad- used 180 instead of 360.... doh!
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Started my DT360 swap yesterday
- Thread starter defecater
- Start date
Yep. My bad- used 180 instead of 360.... doh!
defecater
Full Access Member
Did some measuring on the balancer, it is 11.25 in outer diameter. That means I will get the 60 series 54 tooth sprocket that is showing 13.something diameter. Not shure how I will mount it to the balancer yet, but I have a couple of ideas. Getting it pretty well centered will be the real challenge. Like bike-maker, I doubt one tooth off either way will make any consequential difference in the tach reading, but I am going to go with the 54 tooth sprocket and grind one tooth off. If that gap makes the tach screwy, I can just weld some kind of tooth back in its place.
Dave 001
Full Access Member
Just use a crank gear from a 6.9/7.3. It's a 53 tooth gear. Also half the diameter of the injection pump gear, so you are less likely to get anything (eg. fingers) caught up in it while it's spinning around.
Using the factory installed tach looks the best but using an aftermarket tach with the sensor in the bellhousing is easily doable. Aftermarket tachs have dip switches so that they can be calibrated to the number of teeth they are "seeing".
Dave
PS: i think your exhaust elbow looks pretty good, not hacked up at all. I've seen much, much worse. A little dressing up with a sanding disk and some high temperature paint (or thermal coating) and it will look factory.
Using the factory installed tach looks the best but using an aftermarket tach with the sensor in the bellhousing is easily doable. Aftermarket tachs have dip switches so that they can be calibrated to the number of teeth they are "seeing".
Dave
PS: i think your exhaust elbow looks pretty good, not hacked up at all. I've seen much, much worse. A little dressing up with a sanding disk and some high temperature paint (or thermal coating) and it will look factory.
defecater
Full Access Member
Yeah, I am still hackin away on this. Not getting much done it seems. EVERY LITTLE THING goes wrong for me, sometimes more than once. Had trouble with--
Hydraulic clutch system
hydroboost lines
oil lines for turbo
tach wheel
driveshaft
etc
etc
etc
Its not that this swap is really harder than anything alse I have done, more like there are forces working against me (if I believed in such things) to make every thing that should be simple, as difficult as possible. Fittings I dont have, fabricating parts, multiple trips to get what I need. I am shure you all know the feeling. The driveshaft shop wanted the rear half of the driveline so they could balance the whole works. I dropped it off on a saturday when they werent open. Just stashed it on one side of the building and would call them Mon and tel them it was there. Girlfriend asked "what if someone steals it??" I told her that the way things were going for me, I fully expected it to get stolen and accepted it was inevitable. It didnt get stolen, it is all prettied up and installed now.
So bad in fact, that a couple of days ago when I decided to pump out the front tank and put fresh fuel in it, that the 24 hour credit card co-op pump wouldnt authorize. I COULDNT EVEN BUY FUEL!!!
Anyhow, enough with the boo-hooing.
Hydraulic clutch setup- initially there was not enough pedal travel. The piston in the master cylinder was bottoming out way before the pedal reached the floor. It would have worked that way, but I wanted the pedal travel to be comparable to other things that I drive. I wanted to put a heim joint in the pushrod anyway, so I removed the original stud from the lever, and drilled a hole higher up on the arm. Also welded a piece of angle iron and drilled it to make it double shear. Clutch pedal was also extremely easy to push, with not enough travel at the clutch fork, in my opinion, so I ordered up a 1 inch master cylinder to replace the 3/4. Seems to be pretty good now, but wont really know untill I try to drive it.
Oil lines for the turbo- supply was metric thread. Nobody in town had anything, so I had to go to Des Moines. the drain line I had all the metal fittings done up, just needed a piece of 7/8 line to connect the gap. Couldnt get that either, so I had to drop back and redo it all for 3/4.
Tach reading wheel- after receiving the sprocket, I came to my senses and decided it was just to heavy to risk hack fabbin it onto the balancer and having it out of balance. Decided to forget about the tach for now, and utilize an aftermarket one with the DT360 flywheel sensor later on. Moved on to putting the front clip on for good, so I could figure up what I needed for intercooler connections. After mocking everything in, it was apparent that there was no room to mount anything on the balancer anyway because of the electric fan shroud in the way. Bottom radiator lines would have been a concern too.
Waiting on getting my injectors back. Should be here Sat or Mon from what I am told. Not far off from a test fire at this point. Got stuff for my intercooler pipes today. No doubt there is stuff I am forgetting. I am losing enthusiasm for this project, but must push on regardless, because I need this rig to tow my buggy out to California early next month for a competition.
My $5 swap meet PS resovoir
electric fan and shroud my buddy made for me. was easier to use this Crown Vic fan than dual Taurus ones
As it sits right now
Also, considering all the trouble I was running into with everything else, I reversed my idea of a remote mount tube/fin oil cooler. For the sake of simplicity and cost, I went ahead and cut the filter head off the original block mounted cooler, tapped the passages, plugged them and put it back on. Maybe later when I find a good deal on a cooler at a swap meet, I will attempt to go through the trouble of mounting one up front.
Only thing that truly has went simply, was the 7.3 upper radiator hose fits perfectly with about an inch cut off the 90 degree end!!
Hydraulic clutch system
hydroboost lines
oil lines for turbo
tach wheel
driveshaft
etc
etc
etc
Its not that this swap is really harder than anything alse I have done, more like there are forces working against me (if I believed in such things) to make every thing that should be simple, as difficult as possible. Fittings I dont have, fabricating parts, multiple trips to get what I need. I am shure you all know the feeling. The driveshaft shop wanted the rear half of the driveline so they could balance the whole works. I dropped it off on a saturday when they werent open. Just stashed it on one side of the building and would call them Mon and tel them it was there. Girlfriend asked "what if someone steals it??" I told her that the way things were going for me, I fully expected it to get stolen and accepted it was inevitable. It didnt get stolen, it is all prettied up and installed now.
So bad in fact, that a couple of days ago when I decided to pump out the front tank and put fresh fuel in it, that the 24 hour credit card co-op pump wouldnt authorize. I COULDNT EVEN BUY FUEL!!!
Anyhow, enough with the boo-hooing.
Hydraulic clutch setup- initially there was not enough pedal travel. The piston in the master cylinder was bottoming out way before the pedal reached the floor. It would have worked that way, but I wanted the pedal travel to be comparable to other things that I drive. I wanted to put a heim joint in the pushrod anyway, so I removed the original stud from the lever, and drilled a hole higher up on the arm. Also welded a piece of angle iron and drilled it to make it double shear. Clutch pedal was also extremely easy to push, with not enough travel at the clutch fork, in my opinion, so I ordered up a 1 inch master cylinder to replace the 3/4. Seems to be pretty good now, but wont really know untill I try to drive it.
You must be registered for see images attach
Picture looks pretty dark on my computer. My apologies if it is that way for everyone. It is a shot of the modified lever and pushrod.Oil lines for the turbo- supply was metric thread. Nobody in town had anything, so I had to go to Des Moines. the drain line I had all the metal fittings done up, just needed a piece of 7/8 line to connect the gap. Couldnt get that either, so I had to drop back and redo it all for 3/4.
Tach reading wheel- after receiving the sprocket, I came to my senses and decided it was just to heavy to risk hack fabbin it onto the balancer and having it out of balance. Decided to forget about the tach for now, and utilize an aftermarket one with the DT360 flywheel sensor later on. Moved on to putting the front clip on for good, so I could figure up what I needed for intercooler connections. After mocking everything in, it was apparent that there was no room to mount anything on the balancer anyway because of the electric fan shroud in the way. Bottom radiator lines would have been a concern too.
Waiting on getting my injectors back. Should be here Sat or Mon from what I am told. Not far off from a test fire at this point. Got stuff for my intercooler pipes today. No doubt there is stuff I am forgetting. I am losing enthusiasm for this project, but must push on regardless, because I need this rig to tow my buggy out to California early next month for a competition.
My $5 swap meet PS resovoir
You must be registered for see images attach
electric fan and shroud my buddy made for me. was easier to use this Crown Vic fan than dual Taurus ones
You must be registered for see images attach
As it sits right now
You must be registered for see images attach
Also, considering all the trouble I was running into with everything else, I reversed my idea of a remote mount tube/fin oil cooler. For the sake of simplicity and cost, I went ahead and cut the filter head off the original block mounted cooler, tapped the passages, plugged them and put it back on. Maybe later when I find a good deal on a cooler at a swap meet, I will attempt to go through the trouble of mounting one up front.
Only thing that truly has went simply, was the 7.3 upper radiator hose fits perfectly with about an inch cut off the 90 degree end!!
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ocnorb
IDIT
ocnorb
IDIT
Looks real good!
Your clutch linkage looks alot like the stock hydraulic that came on my 466-5 speed. It has a very short throw on it- looks very close to what you made there.
Exciting to see the motor in the engine bay! Do you have any shots of the front from the side that show your mounts and how far forward everything is?
Your clutch linkage looks alot like the stock hydraulic that came on my 466-5 speed. It has a very short throw on it- looks very close to what you made there.
Exciting to see the motor in the engine bay! Do you have any shots of the front from the side that show your mounts and how far forward everything is?
defecater
Full Access Member
IT LIVES!!!
Finally got the injectors back yesterday, and with a few hitchedto be expected anymore with this project, finally firedit up earlier this afternoon. Good oil pressure, and nonasty noises from inside the engine that I can hear.
A couple of the injectors are leaking compression past. I femoved them a couple of times and I am a bit confused about what exactly seats against what to keep the combustion chamber sealed. Anybody have some usefull insight for me???
Finally got the injectors back yesterday, and with a few hitchedto be expected anymore with this project, finally firedit up earlier this afternoon. Good oil pressure, and nonasty noises from inside the engine that I can hear.
A couple of the injectors are leaking compression past. I femoved them a couple of times and I am a bit confused about what exactly seats against what to keep the combustion chamber sealed. Anybody have some usefull insight for me???
It's projects like this that keep me going with the planning and acquiring of the parts and assemblies I need.
You know, projects really are just the summation and execution of the minute details. The big things needed are easy to see, but it's those damn unexpected items that pop up and cause changes in direction. And lack of nap time, you need nap time.
Sweet project, I can honestly say this truck would be incredible for pulling all the wagons and gooseneck loads of tractors and equipment around the farm.
You know, projects really are just the summation and execution of the minute details. The big things needed are easy to see, but it's those damn unexpected items that pop up and cause changes in direction. And lack of nap time, you need nap time.
Sweet project, I can honestly say this truck would be incredible for pulling all the wagons and gooseneck loads of tractors and equipment around the farm.
defecater
Full Access Member
Update.
Lets see if I can remember everything. Bought new copper washers to seal injectors/combustion chambers. Some of them still leaked, so I coated them with Copperseal, or whatever that stuff is called. Only had one just barely seeping after that. Haled it to the exhaust shop and got that done, and then got down to the business of building doghouse/firewall, and putting dash and interior back together. Test drive after that was not good. Hydroboost was making brakes drag noticably, even though one front caliper was an even bigger problem. Ended up putting new calipers on both sides up front, and buying a rebuilt booster. A lot better, but the booster is still dragging the brakes just a bit.sitting just a bit pidgeon toed, so I need to put a washer or two under the front coils..
Biggest problem-- no power, and exhaust temps soar just pulling an empty trailer up small hills. I was baffled, and had enough, so I took it to a local diesel specialty shop because I didnt have the time, knowledge, or patience to deal with it at the time. I needed to turn my attention to my buggy and the plan B tow rig to get to California, my 88 F250 with a 7.3 and 5 speed..........
It lost its transmission outside of Grand Island Nebraska. We tried finding a used tranny, to no avail. Ended up towing with a DT after all- rented a Penske truck with a 466 in it.
Now that I am back from my trip, I have called the shop once, and they havent touched my truck yet. That was almost two weeks ago. I am calling them tommorow,and if they still havent touched it yet, I will go get it monday. Now that I have had time to think about it, I am thinking the timing needs advanced.
Any thoughts??
Lets see if I can remember everything. Bought new copper washers to seal injectors/combustion chambers. Some of them still leaked, so I coated them with Copperseal, or whatever that stuff is called. Only had one just barely seeping after that. Haled it to the exhaust shop and got that done, and then got down to the business of building doghouse/firewall, and putting dash and interior back together. Test drive after that was not good. Hydroboost was making brakes drag noticably, even though one front caliper was an even bigger problem. Ended up putting new calipers on both sides up front, and buying a rebuilt booster. A lot better, but the booster is still dragging the brakes just a bit.sitting just a bit pidgeon toed, so I need to put a washer or two under the front coils..
Biggest problem-- no power, and exhaust temps soar just pulling an empty trailer up small hills. I was baffled, and had enough, so I took it to a local diesel specialty shop because I didnt have the time, knowledge, or patience to deal with it at the time. I needed to turn my attention to my buggy and the plan B tow rig to get to California, my 88 F250 with a 7.3 and 5 speed..........
It lost its transmission outside of Grand Island Nebraska. We tried finding a used tranny, to no avail. Ended up towing with a DT after all- rented a Penske truck with a 466 in it.
Now that I am back from my trip, I have called the shop once, and they havent touched my truck yet. That was almost two weeks ago. I am calling them tommorow,and if they still havent touched it yet, I will go get it monday. Now that I have had time to think about it, I am thinking the timing needs advanced.
Any thoughts??
ocnorb
IDIT
Is your turbo spinning free?
Sounds like it could be turbo or exhaust related if the brake issue is for sure resolved.
Checking the timing is a good idea too.
Maybe try the disconnect one cylinder at a time trick to see if your fuel delivery is uneven/out of time.
I know I'm not much help, but maybe this will bump it up where one of the diesel pros will see it... Good luck.
defecater
Full Access Member
What do you mean by turbo spinning free??
Engine was really dead at lower RPM's. Seemed to come alive(relatively) at higher RPM's. Could get it in the mid to upper 20's for boost. Dont know what RPM, no functioning tach yet. A little black smoke at tailpipe when putting it to the floor, but not nearly what I would expect.
Called the shop today. Receptionist talked to the shop foreman. Something about ordering a different elbow/hose for my air intake setup. I didnt qurstion it, figured I DID take it to them to work on, so now that they had started on it, let them run with it and see what they come up with
Still would take suggestions abouy troubleshooting in case they drop the ball. Maybe the ordered elbow was something they damaged when working on it?? Seems like it was making good enough boosy that there shoulnt be any leaks in the intercooler junction hoses-they are brand new too
Engine was really dead at lower RPM's. Seemed to come alive(relatively) at higher RPM's. Could get it in the mid to upper 20's for boost. Dont know what RPM, no functioning tach yet. A little black smoke at tailpipe when putting it to the floor, but not nearly what I would expect.
Called the shop today. Receptionist talked to the shop foreman. Something about ordering a different elbow/hose for my air intake setup. I didnt qurstion it, figured I DID take it to them to work on, so now that they had started on it, let them run with it and see what they come up with
Still would take suggestions abouy troubleshooting in case they drop the ball. Maybe the ordered elbow was something they damaged when working on it?? Seems like it was making good enough boosy that there shoulnt be any leaks in the intercooler junction hoses-they are brand new too
ocnorb
IDIT
If your turbo was seized up you wouldn't be getting 20 lbs of boost, so never mind that question.
Hope the shop gets it figured out without too much pain $$$ !!!
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