Started my DT360 swap yesterday

[defecater]

Heres the combo hanging from the fork of my repowered Hough 4x4 wheel loader- I gutted all of the original powertrain and replaced it with a propane burning Ford 302 coupled to a C-6 transmission that was custom adapted to a Spicer gearbox from some kind of tree maintenance equipment that reversed the direction of rotation. From there a driveshaft feeds into a transfer case from a M37 (NP200) then it feeds to the axles. Hydraulics are powered by a pump driven off the front of the crank. Just proves this isn't my first unorthodox swap.

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this picture shows the adapter ring I mentioned earlier. You cant tell, but there is a half inch taken off of the clutch housing(transmission side). For the adapter ring, if you look at the smaller diameter bolt pattern, it is now on a flush surface with the outer pattern- before machining, it was 3/8 inch further away from the engine. Clear as mud, right??

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This picture shows how we left it after the first weekend of working on it. you can clearly see how high we had to lift the cab to get the engine and tranny in as one unit, and the back of the block is touching the firewall.

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This shows the coolant filter head and how low it is- after cutting out the firewall and pushing back the engine, it will be right into the crossmember that you can see sloping downward to the left of the filter head. Before getting started cutting on the firewall last weekend, I went ahead and pulled the oil cooler from the block just to see what I would run into for making it a remote mount tube and fin unit- looks like just making some adapter flanges and plugging off the coolant passages. went to town(town is where everybody hates you, kids all try to beat you up!!) this afternoon and got two 1.5 inch freeze plugs for the coolant passages- they seem to fit as well as any freeze plug I have ever put in. Another idea a friend gave me was that he said he has never seen a coolant filter on and IH tractor oil cooler, so a person might be able to source one from a tractor application. I am in Iowa, so there are ag junkyards around, but they are awfully expensive for some reason, so I will give the remote mount cooler a shot.

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[defecater]

This picture shows the driver side floor contacting the clutch housing before any cutting or lowering

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AFTER cutting sheetmetal and lowering the cab, and pushing the engineback to roughly its final placement(still 3 inch body lift, remember), we placed the front clip on to test for radiator and electric fan clearance- plenty of room. The radiator is large enough that I am going to likely put two first generation Taurus fans on it. One will be wired through a solenoid to run when the engine is running, and the other will be wired to a toggle switch in the cab for back up.

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looks like the hood will clear easily.

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lots of cutting here. Too much in fact- the cab was off kilter to the mounts when I cut, so I was making an estimation on where to cut.

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[defecater]

straight behind the engine view. I should have gotten a pic from the side to show just how far back we pushed it

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yep, the turbo is practically right against the firewall, I knew before this all started that I would be cutting the firewall out. I also knew that I would not attempt to keep any air conditioning, and would either fab up my own heater system or buy an aftermarket setup like a Mojave, so cutting even more clearance out for the turbo does nor bother me. I am going to be putting a Holset HX35 turbo on it, so while I am doing that, I will look into building a flange/extension to move it a few inches forward. Probably run the exhaust out the passenger side on the outside of frame.

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believe it or not, the weight is actually mostly being supported by the truck in this shot. The hoist is still hooked up just as a safety measure in case it tries to fall over. The transmission is being held up with a jack, so theres some weight not resting on the suspension.

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this shows the passenger side of the engine in roughly its final resting place. I had already removed the oil cooler. Maybe you can see the 1/2 inch plywood pieces wedged in there to make clearance. Had a 3/4 inch board between the oil pan and crossmember. We were ready to build front mounts at this point

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cab cut out, bolted back down with 3 inch body lift- also homemade, because I dont like those small diameter lift blocks that dont distribute out over the cab bushings. engine in place, ready to build mounts

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[freebird01]

think a different trans would eliminate alot of the firewall cutting?

 

[Agnem]

If I ever do one of these, the engine is going as far forward as it can, and the cooling system is going in the bed.

 

[hesutton]

Why so far back in the frame? That kind of room could fit a DT466 I think. Not knocking anything, just wonder. It's coming along well, and man will you love that DT when you are finished.

Heath

 

[bike-maker]

Good to see someone finally making some progress on one of these swaps.
I have to admit, these pics kinda scared me at first. But after closer inspection, it looks like adapting a smaller tranny and then shifting the engine as far forward as possible would make life easier. My plan is to run some electric fans on the radiator, and it's looking like a dual, side-by-side fan setup will fit around the pulleys quite nicely. Hopefully I can get by without molesting the firewall.
Can't see in the pics, what are you doing for the front motor mounts?

 

[defecater]

So many different variables to consider when placing an engine, obviously, everyone will have their own priorities. I already decided I was cutting the firewall, so I figured I would "make it count" so to speak, and trade it off in exchange to make other areas easier- mainly radiator and electric fan clearance. I didnt want a bed mounted radiator for two reasons 1-inevitably, it would end up getting the airflow blocked, or worse, damaged by being used as a truck. Secondly, I am thinking I will have either a toolbox or a transfer tank in there. Another option I had was that because I have an old ranch hand bumper, I had the thought of actually mounting the radiator and intercooler in the generous space between the bumper and grille. Now I am pretty much a form follows function mindset, but even that idea was way too hackfab for me!! Another benefit in my mind for pushing it back that far was to get maximum strength from the front engine mounts by having them fabbed right up close to the factory crossmember. I meant to get pics of the front mounts, but was juggling about 4 different things earlier this afternoon. As far as adapting some kind of light duty transmission to avoid cutying the firewall, I dont know. It would definitely keep one from having to cut on the floors because of the huge medium duty clutch housing, but the overall length of this engine is a big issue too. I am perfectly willing to deal with some sheetmetal fab for the peace of mind of a 14 inch clutch and a5 speed with overdrive transmission that there is no doubt about surviving.

For anyone that does not realize it, I have descriptions and comments posted with the pictures now

 

[defecater]

Now I have questions for you guys

Do I need a lift pump for this engine, or does the Bosch inline injection pump have its own internal lift pump???

For my planned remote mount oil cooler, I have two late 80's 460 parts trucks with plate type oil coolers. Anybody forsee any issues with differences in flow or pressure between the two engines that would make one of these coolers a bad idea?? Might even run both of them in parrallel.

The power steering pump on this engine is what appears to be a gear pump. While it is small, whats the odds that it puts out more pressure of flow than my light duty steering box can handle??

 

[FordGuy100]

I would be tempted to fab up some sort of removable tranny hump for the cab, so that if you do need to do something on the rear of the engine, it would make it that much easier.

 

[paulb3]

*Subscribed* can't wait to see it finished.

 

[defecater]

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shots of the front mounts. Used the factory bus isolators and built mounts off of the crossmember.

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decided that to do the rear engine mounts, it would be a lot easier and get some better welds with the cab off and out of the way.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

your hough is toppless!!!!

 

[defecater]

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shot of the drivers side framerail facing towards the rear of truck. I had a bare frame in the weeds, so I cut it up and used appropriate sections of it to box the frame about 2 feet or so in the area of the rear mounts. Makes the frame stronger, and gives a nice flat vertical surface to build off of. The factory bus mounts were just not shaped in a way that would work easily for me, so I built all new mounts using poly bushings from 66-77 Bronco (and others) radius arms. Other side looks pretty much the same other than its all closer to the framerail.

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block flanges I made to replace the oil cooler with a pair of remote mount plate style that will be mounted on the Ranch Hand bumper.

no pictures of it, but I found that for the fuel filter, there is another set of mounting bosses on the block that work perfectly to move it back about 4 inches, so I wont have to remote mount it to the frame, but still have to have new lines made. Put the new injection pump on too, but not the timing gear yet.

 

[freebird01]

nice fab work....wish i had a lift like that...ill bet dieselcrawler and jred do to hahahaha