defecater
Full Access Member
Interesting
Started my DT360 swap yesterday
- Thread starter defecater
- Start date
chvycmnslvr68
Full Access Member
Fuller sells one for Transmissions that would probably work good ... remote mount with 3/4 inch heater hose ports in it
defecater
Full Access Member
It is revolting how little I seem to have accomplished lately!!!
Sent out the injectors to a guy that specializes in rebuilding them for sled pullers. Guy at work that is pretty heavy into pulling hooked me up with him. Finally decided where to position my turbo, and spent a good amount of time Sunday night/monday morning building the elbow for it. figured up what I need for a new driveshaft and got the driveshaft place going on it. Had a potential oil cooler found on ebay, and contacted the seller but I dropped the ball on it and need to get back in touch with him. My friend got the radiator, shroud and electric fan all fabbed up,-forgot to get a picture of it.
heres a shot of the clutch master cylinder and adapter to bolt it to the existing holes.
Heres a shot of the elbow and turbo. I know it looks pretty hack fab on the outside but what you can't see is how many hours we spent tweaking the individual pieces that went into making it in order to smooth out the flow as much as possible. The rectangular piece that starts out of the exhaust manifold we actually made from scratch using 1/4 thick pieces cut from an old 2.5 ton military truck frame. I chose to run the turbo like this for various reasons-- the fresh air intake is pointed towards the drivers fender, where the large air filter will be. the compressed air outlet will shoot over the alternator and drop down to the intercooler. You can see the exhaust feed. the exhaust outlet will do a 90 and drop down then run along underneath the cab along the outside of the frame. There was no room to run it on the inside of the frame anyway, so it does work out better in this case. What worries me now is the extra leverage that will be exerted on the 4 bolts holding the elbow to the exhaust manifold because of the turbo hanging further away. Then factor in the weight of the exhaust, and the added torque movement from moving the turbo away from the centerline of the engine. I want to add some extra bracing to it, but there is nowhere on the block to do so. I could run something to the exhaust manifold bolts, but that wont gain much because it would not be adding strength in the proper plane of potential movement. The only realistic (but still not ideal) option I am coming up with is to build something off of the backside of the lower alternator mounting bolt- maybe still run something out from the exhaust manifold bolts too. Every little bit helps, or am i overthinking this???
Also started getting the fuel lines ran. I am not 100% shure on this, so somebody help me out here. feed line from the tank runs to the rearward side of primer/lift pump. Fuel then flows out the front of the primer/lift pump and feeds into the rear facing port on the fuel filter head. Fuel then comes back out of the filter head on the side opposite of the block and goes to the front top of the injector pump. fuel then returns to the tank from the rear of the row of injector feed fittings. Right?? Wrong????
Anybody know if there is a way to recalibrate the factory tach to use the bus tach sensor that reads the teeth on the flywheel??
Sent out the injectors to a guy that specializes in rebuilding them for sled pullers. Guy at work that is pretty heavy into pulling hooked me up with him. Finally decided where to position my turbo, and spent a good amount of time Sunday night/monday morning building the elbow for it. figured up what I need for a new driveshaft and got the driveshaft place going on it. Had a potential oil cooler found on ebay, and contacted the seller but I dropped the ball on it and need to get back in touch with him. My friend got the radiator, shroud and electric fan all fabbed up,-forgot to get a picture of it.
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heres a shot of the clutch master cylinder and adapter to bolt it to the existing holes.
You must be registered for see images attach
Heres a shot of the elbow and turbo. I know it looks pretty hack fab on the outside but what you can't see is how many hours we spent tweaking the individual pieces that went into making it in order to smooth out the flow as much as possible. The rectangular piece that starts out of the exhaust manifold we actually made from scratch using 1/4 thick pieces cut from an old 2.5 ton military truck frame. I chose to run the turbo like this for various reasons-- the fresh air intake is pointed towards the drivers fender, where the large air filter will be. the compressed air outlet will shoot over the alternator and drop down to the intercooler. You can see the exhaust feed. the exhaust outlet will do a 90 and drop down then run along underneath the cab along the outside of the frame. There was no room to run it on the inside of the frame anyway, so it does work out better in this case. What worries me now is the extra leverage that will be exerted on the 4 bolts holding the elbow to the exhaust manifold because of the turbo hanging further away. Then factor in the weight of the exhaust, and the added torque movement from moving the turbo away from the centerline of the engine. I want to add some extra bracing to it, but there is nowhere on the block to do so. I could run something to the exhaust manifold bolts, but that wont gain much because it would not be adding strength in the proper plane of potential movement. The only realistic (but still not ideal) option I am coming up with is to build something off of the backside of the lower alternator mounting bolt- maybe still run something out from the exhaust manifold bolts too. Every little bit helps, or am i overthinking this???
Also started getting the fuel lines ran. I am not 100% shure on this, so somebody help me out here. feed line from the tank runs to the rearward side of primer/lift pump. Fuel then flows out the front of the primer/lift pump and feeds into the rear facing port on the fuel filter head. Fuel then comes back out of the filter head on the side opposite of the block and goes to the front top of the injector pump. fuel then returns to the tank from the rear of the row of injector feed fittings. Right?? Wrong????
Anybody know if there is a way to recalibrate the factory tach to use the bus tach sensor that reads the teeth on the flywheel??
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bike-maker
Full Access Member
My plan for the tach sensor;
First of all, the calibration is set inside the tach gauge itself, and I don't believe it can be changed. The IDI IP gear has 106 teeth on it and spins half the RPM of the crank. So the IDI sensor could be used on the crank shaft of the DT on something with 53 teeth. I took the damper off of mine trying to figure a way to maybe put grooves in the pulleys and then realized an easier solution. The water pump spins at a 1:1 ratio with the crank, and I only planned on using 1 of the water pump pulleys (there's 2 pulleys with 2 grooves each sandwiched together). So my plan is to go ahead and install both pulleys, and on the rear one cut 53 grooves along the outside of it, then build a mount for the stock IDI tach sensor to read the grooves in the pulley. Another option would be to use 1 pulley, and just weld a 53 tooth gear - I was thinking the rear sprocket off of a dirt bike - spaced off of the rear of the pulley.
First of all, the calibration is set inside the tach gauge itself, and I don't believe it can be changed. The IDI IP gear has 106 teeth on it and spins half the RPM of the crank. So the IDI sensor could be used on the crank shaft of the DT on something with 53 teeth. I took the damper off of mine trying to figure a way to maybe put grooves in the pulleys and then realized an easier solution. The water pump spins at a 1:1 ratio with the crank, and I only planned on using 1 of the water pump pulleys (there's 2 pulleys with 2 grooves each sandwiched together). So my plan is to go ahead and install both pulleys, and on the rear one cut 53 grooves along the outside of it, then build a mount for the stock IDI tach sensor to read the grooves in the pulley. Another option would be to use 1 pulley, and just weld a 53 tooth gear - I was thinking the rear sprocket off of a dirt bike - spaced off of the rear of the pulley.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
tractor supply sells flat chain sprockets you could probably knocked the teeth down a bit and modify it to bolt to an existing pulley
defecater
Full Access Member
Oddly enough, I just had that roller chain sprocket idea earlier today while at the scrapyard waiting for the loader to clear my trailer off. There was some kind of gearmotor laying on the ground nearby with a sprocket on it. It only had 40some teeth on it, but it was pretty big diameter. I wouldnt want a 53 tooth sprocket mounted on my water pump. I am no safety ****, but having a spinning toothed wheel up high on an engine like that is just asking for a nasty accident to happen. I will look into possibly mounting one down low on the balancer where it would be much less likely to do bodily damage in a careless moment.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
you would have to use something for #20 or #30 chain...like bicycle chain not a big sprocket like a motorcycle. thats more like #50 chain. most motorcycles are 520 or 530 chain. but something like a bicycle or copy machine sprocket would work... or just get a disc laser cut
defecater
Full Access Member
Was just looking at sprockets over at the Surplus Center website. They carry from 40 to 80 sizes, but nothing in 53 tooth. 52 or 54. I dont know how far off one tooth would throw off the tach reading, or could get a 54 and grind one tooth off- might make the tach have a slight hiccup at idle, but I am doubting it would even be noticable. Any thoughts??
freebird01
Post Turtle!
Basically its an inductive prox switch...i dont think it will act right with a gap. Does it just read the ip gear teeth?
Pm me...i might be able to come up with something
Pm me...i might be able to come up with something
defecater
Full Access Member
Not at all saying you are wrong, buy why would the sensor care if there was a gap?? Seems to me it would just read it as the engine speed slowing down for a millisecond.
Yes, the sensor originally reads the teeth on the gear of the IP.
Yes, the sensor originally reads the teeth on the gear of the IP.
ocnorb
IDIT
Not sure if the gap would be a big deal, but going to a 54 with one tooth removed is a cog every 3.33 degrees. The stock set-up is looking at a cog every 3.396 degrees. Off a little... but maybe not enough to worry about.
bike-maker
Full Access Member
I don't think 1 tooth off would be enough to worry about. I've seen guys swap from a IDI to Cummins and use both a gear on the balancer and just cutting notches in the balancer and both were successful using the IDI tach sensor.
defecater
Full Access Member
ocnorb- I am not shure how that really matters though??
Besides that, your math is wrong, I believe-I am getting a tooth(signal)every 3.39 degrees of rotation with the stock 106 tooth gear. With a 54 tooth sprocket, I come up with a signal every 6.66 degrees of rotation. Big difference is obviously because of twice as many teeth on the stock gear, but it turns half as fast. To me, this just adds to my theory that the sensor does not care about the speed or gaps of the teeth, it merely reads what passes in front of it no matter what the speed,spacing, or degrees of seperation.
But I suck at math, and quite possibly am not grasping exactly how the sensor works.
If the sensor is going to be that picky about the spacing of the teeth, Bike-makers plan of putting notches in a pulley better be pretty damn precise.
Besides that, your math is wrong, I believe-I am getting a tooth(signal)every 3.39 degrees of rotation with the stock 106 tooth gear. With a 54 tooth sprocket, I come up with a signal every 6.66 degrees of rotation. Big difference is obviously because of twice as many teeth on the stock gear, but it turns half as fast. To me, this just adds to my theory that the sensor does not care about the speed or gaps of the teeth, it merely reads what passes in front of it no matter what the speed,spacing, or degrees of seperation.
But I suck at math, and quite possibly am not grasping exactly how the sensor works.
If the sensor is going to be that picky about the spacing of the teeth, Bike-makers plan of putting notches in a pulley better be pretty damn precise.
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bike-maker
Full Access Member
The one I saw on a Cummins conversion was not very precise looking - the guy cut the notches with a hack saw and said it worked just fine.
My understanding of how the magnetic hall-effect switch works with the tach is that every time the 12v signal is broken 53 times, the tach counts it as 1 revolution per a given amount of time. Theoretically, the 53 breaks would happen at such a high speed the tach wouldn't have a chance of translating the inaccuracy of the notches. But it's just a theory...
360 degrees / 53 notches = 1 notch every 6.79 degrees.
53 notches on one of the 10" pulleys = 1 notch every .592". I already tried marking one out with a set of calipers (what a pain in the a$$).
My understanding of how the magnetic hall-effect switch works with the tach is that every time the 12v signal is broken 53 times, the tach counts it as 1 revolution per a given amount of time. Theoretically, the 53 breaks would happen at such a high speed the tach wouldn't have a chance of translating the inaccuracy of the notches. But it's just a theory...
360 degrees / 53 notches = 1 notch every 6.79 degrees.
53 notches on one of the 10" pulleys = 1 notch every .592". I already tried marking one out with a set of calipers (what a pain in the a$$).
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