Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

Looks good. I like the flex coupler. Might have to steal that idea.

gotta have them flex couplers. really helps keep components alive longer.

i ended up attaching the the exhaust to under the cab..then realized that was dumb and migth vibrate. it is isolated but still. When i pigure out where the pip[e will exit i will make a custom bracket that mounts to the frame. Dont think the exhaust was ever up so high, but i can still use the stock hangers on the frame, just need to modify them a bit.

 

[jhenegh]

gotta have them flex couplers. really helps keep components alive longer.

i ended up attaching the the exhaust to under the cab..then realized that was dumb and migth vibrate. it is isolated but still. When i pigure out where the pip[e will exit i will make a custom bracket that mounts to the frame. Dont think the exhaust was ever up so high, but i can still use the stock hangers on the frame, just need to modify them a bit.

I built my whole exhaust from downpipe out to axle with only 3 hangers and rubber isolators.

Would a flex coupling help this in any for body twist etc? It was my first exhaust I've put together and I feel it is a bit rigid as it is just a straight pipe until the axle hump n dump

 

[Greg5OH]

I am using EZ wiring mini 20 kit, however I dont think it has which circuits are constant, and which are keyed. Here is a list of what I plan on having constant power to, and what has keyed power. Please let me know of anything I should consider or add with this:

The wiring is broken down into 4 sections, front, engine, cab, rear. Also outlining if I want it constant or switched with ign on.
PS all non LED lights and hi current devices will be relayed.

FRONT:
2x blinkers/parking lamp, constant power, blinkers on with switched.
2x headlamps-constant power
2x fog lamps-constant
1x winch-switched
1x line lock-constant
strobe lamps-contant

ENGINE:
fuel pump-switched
fuel shut off solenoid-switched
cold advance solenoid-switched
starter-switched
glow plugs-switched
Vacuum pump (for hvac)-switched

CAB:
Gauges-switched
HVAC-switched
Dome lights-constant (door pin and manual override switch)
Clearance lights-switched
Radio-constant but turns off with ign off
12v out-constant
400w inverter hardwired-constant

REAR:
Reverse cree lamps-constant
S/T/T lamps -constant
2500 lb winch on crane-constant
rock lights-constant
work lights-constant
strobe lights-constant

now alot of these constants (ex aux lights)will have toggle switches in the cab. For example the crane winch. the switch is getting constant, but you cant use it untill switch is armed.

PS: the switches the the LED built in, does the LED need 12v or ground?

 

[laserjock]

I am using EZ wiring mini 20 kit, however I dont think it has which circuits are constant, and which are keyed. Here is a list of what I plan on having constant power to, and what has keyed power. Please let me know of anything I should consider or add with this:

The wiring is broken down into 4 sections, front, engine, cab, rear. Also outlining if I want it constant or switched with ign on.
PS all non LED lights and hi current devices will be relayed.

FRONT:
2x blinkers/parking lamp, constant power, blinkers on with switched.
2x headlamps-constant power
2x fog lamps-constant
1x winch-switched
1x line lock-constant
strobe lamps-contant

ENGINE:
fuel pump-switched
fuel shut off solenoid-switched
cold advance solenoid-switched
starter-switched
glow plugs-switched
Vacuum pump (for hvac)-switched

CAB:
Gauges-switched
HVAC-switched
Dome lights-constant (door pin and manual override switch)
Clearance lights-switched
Radio-constant but turns off with ign off
12v out-constant
400w inverter hardwired-constant

REAR:
Reverse cree lamps-constant
S/T/T lamps -constant
2500 lb winch on crane-constant
rock lights-constant
work lights-constant
strobe lights-constant

now alot of these constants (ex aux lights)will have toggle switches in the cab. For example the crane winch. the switch is getting constant, but you cant use it untill switch is armed.

PS: the switches the the LED built in, does the LED need 12v or ground?

That all seems pretty reasonable i think. Do yourself a favor and invest in some serious relays for things like the winches. I would recommend running a lot of relays so that you are pulling tiny wire into the cab for your switches. You could even do like ethernet cable. I may do that myself so that my few togles in the cab are a module that plugs in. Power consumption by a relay is nill. Probably not enough relays in your new set to do that. I picked up a couple of these.

http://www.amazon.com/COOPER-BUSSMA...1898&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=bussman+relay+bank

Cheaper from ebay but they take standard packard weatherpack connectors in the back. Gives you relays and fuses and you can configure it however you like. The jeep guys like them for aux lights and stuff.

Just a thought.


Most of the time, lighted switches require a ground. Power is supplied via whatever is being switched.

EDIT: Of course my plans include making my "dumb old truck" quite a bit smarter by the time its all finished.

 

[Greg5OH]

guys, please bear with me thru this wiring struggle. Making my glow plug harness completely from scratch. How do I wire the solenoid again? I need a large cable from battery toi one post, anothe rlarge one on the other side which splits into the 8 plugs, a ground? and a trigger wire which will be a momentary toggle switch in the cab. Do I need the controller, or my manual switch bypasses all that?

laser posted this earlier, im just reposting to help organize myself

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[Greg5OH]

here is a list of my toggle switches I will be using.
WINCH IN/OUT
STROBE
FOG
BACKUP/WORK
HAZARD
ROCK
CRANE
DOME
GLOWPLUG
COLD ADV
IGNITION
HEADLAMP
ACC ONLY
LINE LOCK
HORN
START


quite a bit, some are lighted some now, like glowplugs, starter and ignition.

im going to do some paper concept wiring for relays and the mentioned switches before i go doing stuff. I got 10 relays waiting to be put to the task.

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heres the ez wirking kit befor ei sorted the wires into subgroups. R Souza from ez wire is a great help, always emails be back lightning fast.
the individually labeled wires are awesome. I will have to extend the tail section to the lamps but that snot a big deal.

 

[Greg5OH]

Regarding relays, do I need to a have a fuse between the headlight(for ex) and the relay, or is the fuse from key on source sufficient?

 

[Greg5OH]

one more question. What size fuse should I put between glow plug solenoid and battery?

 

[laserjock]

guys, please bear with me thru this wiring struggle. Making my glow plug harness completely from scratch. How do I wire the solenoid again? I need a large cable from battery toi one post, anothe rlarge one on the other side which splits into the 8 plugs, a ground? and a trigger wire which will be a momentary toggle switch in the cab. Do I need the controller, or my manual switch bypasses all that?

laser posted this earlier, im just reposting to help organize myself

You must be registered for see images attach

Strictly speaking, you don't need the controller. You can just hook your GP wires to the Load post on the relay where the Z strip is. It's there for the benefit of the controller. The way most people seem to do this is to leave the red wire there (its key on 12V I believe) and then take the white wire off. What the controller does is pull the white wire to ground to activate the relay. You can either hook that post to momentary and ground it in the cab or you can run 12 V to the other side and hard ground the post where the white wire is. Shouldn't make any difference. What ever is more convenient for you.

 

[laserjock]

Regarding relays, do I need to a have a fuse between the headlight(for ex) and the relay, or is the fuse from key on source sufficient?

Having multiple things on a single fuse is a little dangerous especially if you have mulitple critical things on the same fuse. Me, I would separate the headlights and either run a fuse to feed them for both high and low beam or fuse after the high and low beam relays. Are you going to wire them using the floor switch so its either hi or low or individual so it can be all at once? If you are not doing either or, I would say fuse both the high and low because that will be a lot of juice and require a fairly large fuse if you turn them on all together.

For small things, I would group them together on a fuse like all your running lights. Driving lights definitely need to be on there own. Another example is fuel pump and vac pump. You could run them off the same relay because they are both fairly small draw but I would fuse them individually so if one burns up it doesn't take out the other or the relay.

Does that make sense?

 

[laserjock]

one more question. What size fuse should I put between glow plug solenoid and battery?

This is typically a fusible link but you can do a large fuse or maxi fuse I guess. I think OLDBULL8 came up with a 200 amp initial draw which drops off as they get hot. Do a quick search for his test thread. He posted a video with the ammeter showing the draw.

 

[IDIoit]

put your headlights on its own relay and circuit!
nothing worse than going down the road in the pitch black and have the wiring burn up.
been there. it sucks!

 

[Greg5OH]

I hear what u guys are saying, the ez wiring kit takes care of that, heaflamps are their own 30a circ,tails and markets on seperate as well. Lights are either hi or low

 

[IDIoit]

what did you pay for that kit?

 

[trackspeeder]

put your headlights on its own relay and circuit!
nothing worse than going down the road in the pitch black and have the wiring burn up.
been there. it sucks!

X2 on this. Driving by flash light is no fun.