Anyone swap back to throttle cable?

[Rdnck84_03]

On the grounds I would recommend a good grounding system diagram, I really like the Mitchell's wiring diagrams.

Unfortunately it could be something on the power side of things seemingly unrelated to the issues also. Electrical systems can do some really strange things.

James

 

[frankenwrench]

On the grounds I would recommend a good grounding system diagram, I really like the Mitchell's wiring diagrams.

Unfortunately it could be something on the power side of things seemingly unrelated to the issues also. Electrical systems can do some really strange things.

James

I agree. And it verry well could be the hot side of things. Just curious as to why I'm having same issue with entire wiring harness and pcm swap. And I left no stock wire in the truck. All came from doner. And yet still had same issue. Been driving it the past few days since I got the new pedal from the ford dealership without issue so far. I'm really hoping that the issue is just that, but can't be sure. Getting 13.7v engine running, 12.3 before I started it earlier after sitting overnight. Not sure it matters, but i have group 31-5t series batteries. Still not sure how to test for any ac voltage from alternator. I really appreciate you folks for pointing some direction my way and taking time from your day to do so.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I don't remember which thread it was but someone on here had some issues that were eventually determined to be caused by an ac output from the alternator. If you can find that thread it explains how to check for it. I believe the thread was something to do with e4od shifting issues. Hopefully someone else can remember where it was.

When it comes to sensor issues, the voltage you need to look at is the 5v pcm reference. The pcm sends 5v to all of the sensors so that there should always be a steady voltage, battery voltage fluctuations won't affect the sensor feedback.

James

 

[frankenwrench]

I don't remember which thread it was but someone on here had some issues that were eventually determined to be caused by an ac output from the alternator. If you can find that thread it explains how to check for it. I believe the thread was something to do with e4od shifting issues. Hopefully someone else can remember where it was.

When it comes to sensor issues, the voltage you need to look at is the 5v pcm reference. The pcm sends 5v to all of the sensors so that there should always be a steady voltage, battery voltage fluctuations won't affect the sensor feedback.

James

I didn't think so, but I threw it in there just in case I was wrong. Il have to find that thread and watch that video. All my grounds still look good. Cleaned em again anyway. We don't really rust that bad in my area, but as I say that I remember my daughter's truck was having issues starting and the headlights didn't work all due to a ground being rusty under the battery tray on her s10. Lol. Replaced a starter and let her convince me to put aftermarket headlights and led's on her truck just for neither issue to be fixed and still had to go ground hunting. My fault really. Lol.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

When you say checked all of the grounds, are you meaning everything in the truck or just the primary battery cables?

I'm not sure exactly how many are in these trucks but I am going to say between 10-15 different grounding points scattered all over.

I know on one of my superduty trucks I had a bad ground in the socket on one of the rear light bulbs that caused the blower motor to stop and the front turn signals to light up everytime you hit the brakes with the blower on.

Everything seemed completely unrelated until I went to start it in the dark and all of the led marker lights on the bed lit up when I hit the brake. Even then I had no idea that fixing that issue would also fix the other.

I wish you the best of luck with it, wiring issue can be a royal pain to track down.

James

 

[frankenwrench]

When you say checked all of the grounds, are you meaning everything in the truck or just the primary battery cables?

All of them. Headlight to tail light. I replaced every bit of the harness when I swapped to manual. The old wiring had alot of splicing everywhere. Even between the headliner and top of the cab.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

I wish I could say that I had a senerio that would explain it. Only thing I can recommend currently is to check the pcm reference voltage and make sure it is in range, if it is for some reason sending too much voltage to the sensor it could possibly be causing premature failure. Off the top of my head I believe it should be 5v.

Then look for anything electrical that doesn't seem to be 100% correct ( no matter how seemingly unrelated it is) and fix that.

I will also say that new electronics seem to have a vary high failure rate as of lately, I can't speak from experience on this as I have been fortunate and haven't had to replace anything since before covid and everything went to ****.

James

 

[snicklas]

@greenskeeper and @frankenwrench

***EDITED BELOW MESSAGE TO CORRECT THE MISTAKE IN THE TROLLING SENTENCE***

I have just spent the last few minutes cleaning up this thread. Personal attacks are not allowed. What might appear as trolling repeatedly is also not allowed.

It stops NOW, or vacations will be issued.

 

[Jesus Freak]

@greenskeeper and @frankenwrench

I have just spent the last few minutes cleaning up this thread. Personal attacks are not allowed. What might appear as trolling repeatedly is to allowed.

It stops NOW, or vacations will be issued.

Good call. It was getting weird...... even for me......

 

[frankenwrench]

Good call. It was getting weird...... even for me......

Sorry about the weirdness. Just tired of someone spamming up the thread with misinformation and I met childish behavior with likewise childish behavior. My position was
Scenario#1 throttle lag exists and someone wanted to go out of their way by trolling and deny the entire aftermarket platform based on throttle lag alone by hundreds of different companies, as well as discredit the engineers that confirm the existence of throttle lag (they should know, they designed it, marketed it, sold it)

Scenario#2 if throttle lag in fact did not exist and no one had ever heard of it and there wasn't an entire aftermarket platform for just that, then the fact I noticed said throttle lag would indicate that I was experiencing an issue that would be a topic for discussion as it would then be considered a symptom that could be related to my issue.

Either way, as stated above, I had my part just as the other member did and apologize if I made you or any other member that wasnt involved in our argument feel uncomforatable. And for all that gave helpful information and experiences, thank you. I do believe it still has to be a wiring issue. New dealership pedal hasn't failed, but new symptom. At random while cruising down the road with about 7800 lbs worth of trailer and cargo I can press down on the pedal and the rpms hold and the truck doesn't accelerate. Even down hill. Pull my foot off the pedal and re apply, it seems to come back online. Then the check engine light comes on. According to my auto enginuity scanner, I am experiencing overboost. I turned the truck off when I got to my destination and the cel didn't return when I started the truck back up until I started back up the hill. This happened a few times till I got back home turning the truck of/on at every stop light and stop sign on the way just to pull out the laptop and run a scan before I turned the truck off while the cel was still on. Would overboosting cause this? Maybe de fueling somehow? I do have Marty's e fuel kit with regulated return and a hydra chip that I have set at 40 hp tow. Ebpv delete pedestal and ebpv delete plug, cold air intake, mbrp downpipe and 4 inch exhaust no resignator or muffler. Adrenaline hpop, new stock aa injectors about 2 months old, and a turbo that whistles kinda loud upon startup and continues even without throttle(not sure what turbo, it was on it when I bought the truck and told it was new)

 

[u2slow]

Injection pressure regulator? (IPR)

Often gets missed in the electronics.

 

[Black dawg]

Do you have a way to watch datastream?
Have seen the overboost code with programmer, and no check engine light. Everything to do with that chip clean and tight?

Any weirdness that isnt quickly diagnosed, I disconnect/remove any programmers or associated stuff, Pretty amazing how many times problems just go away.....

 

[trackspeeder]

The PCM will cut back the fuel when there is an over boost issue. Try putting a boost fooler in the MAP line (Mini regulator set for 17 PSI).

 

[Jesus Freak]

The PCM will cut back the fuel when there is an over boost issue. Try putting a boost fooler in the MAP line (Mini regulator set for 17 PSI).

"Boost fooler" ? Is that really a thing? Or are you making stuff up?

 

[frankenwrench]

"Boost fooler" ? Is that really a thing? Or are you making stuff up?

Nope. Looked it up. It's a thing. And I'm pushing 26 lbs of boost pretty easily with an empty 24 ft gooseneck. Data plate shows empty it only weighs 4,000 lbs. And I have at least 150 lbs of chains and ratchet binders in the front box.