Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

thanks lol

before the weekend i was feeling a little beat down by the truck, felt really far behind, but my buddy (drives 100 miles one way to my house every weekend) came up again religiously and we got a bunch of stuff done, and im feeling more confident, but tired from 5-6 hour sleepnights. Up till 3 am everyday figuring wiring out. We got the carrier bearing dropped down and aligned, the angles are perefct now. 4 deg on the snout of the axle, 4 deg on the short shaft out the tcase, so thats good, and eliminated the left right misalignment too. The rubber is a little olde rbut the bearing itself is fine. It will work for the time being. I am again feeling confident I will have the truck working (minus full interior)


2 questions and a request.

1) does anyone know what the stuff that cab chassis or "work" model truck shav eon the floor? You knwo that thick rubber mat? I would love to use that VS carpet in my truck. The thicker the better. I dont want carpet as it justs gets dirty and holds water.

2) on the HVAC control unit for a 1991. Ther eis a 4 prong connector on the back of the hvac which is connected to the lever which selects floor, vent, defrost etc. Does anyone have a pinout of this 4 prong connector?

 

[marmot]

they were called carpet delete kits, vinyl flooring instead of carpet. Best thing ever for a work truck.

 

[Greg5OH]

thanks. just trying tpo find something large enough in a stock roll so I can lay it out and trim it myself. Doubt i coudl moult it into my custom floor, but if I can cover at least most of the floor id be happy/.

 

[Greg5OH]

this is what im looking for
http://recycledrubber.northerngreentech.com/rolled_rubber_flooring.html
oit would be screwed down into the sheetmetal with stainless fasteners if needed to remove it to cut into the floor at alater time for whatever reason.

 

[marmot]

http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=67

OHHHH just saw the "custom" floor...might work tho...

 

[Greg5OH]

that wont fit my floor

 

[Greg5OH]

i have this diagram, but I think this is for something newer as there wasnt ever a relay for the blower fan on the old 91.

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but it shows only 2 or 3 wires going into the back of the position selector. I have 4 spades. Forsome reaosn I cant find the connector on my dash harness that would plug into there. which would help ID what wire goes where.


Also, I would like to relay ,my blower fan, should I just run it as its shown in this diagram? I basicaly have one power wire from my fuse panel coming into the blower switch...hold on...i think i have two different diagrams at home...need to sit down with this thing again after work and see what Im working with.

I got 1 power wire to power the blower motor coming from my fuse panel right? In the diagram i posted the power is fed into the function junction first? On the other diagram I have im pretty sure it runs into the blower speed connector first..

 

[IDIoit]

IMO, if you dont want carpet,
before you do anything else on the interior, rino line it.
then you can wash it out.
any kind of sound deadening is a mute point for ya without carpet.

 

[Greg5OH]

It is already coated with metal shield. But is still tinny sounding

 

[BDCarrillo]

Older trucks had full blower motor juice running through the switch, later ones used the relay. The switch basically pushes power to the different parts of the resistor pack, which drops the voltage that the fan sees to reduce the speed. The diagram you have shows the later style which uses the switch to select the path to ground through the resistor pack.

That's all by memory on my 92... I think...

 

[LCAM-01XA]

i have this diagram, but I think this is for something newer as there wasnt ever a relay for the blower fan on the old 91.

You must be registered for see images attach

but it shows only 2 or 3 wires going into the back of the position selector. I have 4 spades. Forsome reaosn I cant find the connector on my dash harness that would plug into there. which would help ID what wire goes where.


Also, I would like to relay ,my blower fan, should I just run it as its shown in this diagram? I basicaly have one power wire from my fuse panel coming into the blower switch...hold on...i think i have two different diagrams at home...need to sit down with this thing again after work and see what Im working with.

I got 1 power wire to power the blower motor coming from my fuse panel right? In the diagram i posted the power is fed into the function junction first? On the other diagram I have im pretty sure it runs into the blower speed connector first..

It's a flat 4-wire connector. Wires are lined up as follows: [lightgreen/pink]-[brown/white]-[brown/orange]-[brown/white]. The two brown/white wires are spliced together upstream from the switch, they are powered thru the 30-amp fuse #9. The brown/orange wire is your power feed for the blower motor, the lightgreen/pink goes into the A/C pressure switch which in turn powers the A/C compressor clutch on and off. If you wondering why the need for two power feed wires into the switch, the switch is actually two switches in one unit, one powers the blower on all the time and only shuts it off in the "OFF" position of the lever, the other turns the A/C compressor on in "max A/C", "normal A/C", "mix", and "defrost". The difference between max and normal A/C is only in the recirculation door postion, in max mode it's closed so the only air going thru the HVAC is that already in the cab, whereas in normal mode she pulls fresh outside air from under the cowl.

If you want to wire in a feed relay for the blower motor, the best way to do so would be to alter the connector for the motor itself. Disconnect the brown/orange wire from the motor and feed it to a proper relay as its trigger input. Then from the relay itself run a short heavy-gauge wire into the blower motor. Obviously feed the relay thru a proper wire and fuse, and ground it's trigger circuit accordingly. I'd suggest a 70-amp relay, even though the factory circuit is only fused for 30 amps, overkill is under-rated.

Edit: you could also install a relay on the ground side of the blower for some super-high speed, but I'm not gonna tell you how to do so till I have tested it myself and verified it works as it should and won't burn your truck to the ground or something. Unless you feel like being a guinea pig

 

[Greg5OH]

LCAm you are a fountain of knowledge, thank you. I did locate my flat 4 way connector. Hoping to have my Hvac in dash wiring done tonight. I will be relaying the motor for sure. Im sur eit will help it blow better too. Actually..gotta hook it straight to batteyr tonight and see if it spins good on its own. I know on hi setting it was fine, jsut suffered from the typical barely even spinning in anyhtign but max setting.
Hardwiring in a 400 watt inverter as well, to handle charging a laptop or whatnot and my gps which is my temporary speedo. When i save some coin I will get a matching uato meter one, will use the rear factory VSS to signal it.

Got my intercooler piping done yesterday. Fits great. Got some clampoco tee bolt clamps on order. Tonight im making a nice 1/4" thick base plate for my twin stick shifter (forgot to take a pic, but fits nice on the left side beside th driver seat and door card).

Coating the inside of the firewall with the metal shield today, proabbly anotehr coat on wednesday, and put the dash in on thursday or friday. Then just hook up the few items. the HVAC and radio wiring will take much longer than running lights and engine wiring itself lol..creature compoforts.

finding better deals on the 1/4" thick rubber mat, 4'x25'. 25 feet is way mro ethan I need, but I can use it for a small home gym setup in my attached garage.

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and here ar ethe wires for my taillights, any idea how to hook these up?

main harness, has two black, one red/bk, two solid green, one green/yl.

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that goes into the driver side, then into the passenger side you have

so one less black, and one less solid green

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black i assume is ground, red is stop?
then which is reverse, and which is turn?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

and here ar ethe wires for my taillights, any idea how to hook these up?

main harness, has two black, one red/bk, two solid green, one green/yl.
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...A-653A-41E4-B541-522476AE3083_zpsjh1kc01s.jpg

that goes into the driver side, then into the passenger side you have

so one less black, and one less solid green
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/...0-EA5B-4FE2-BDE2-D98514F73173_zpsgac1dl9h.jpg

black i assume is ground, red is stop?
then which is reverse, and which is turn?

"Polish Sasquatch"? You need to understand how combined brake/turn lamps work. On your typical S/T/T lamp you'll have 3 wires: running lights, brake/turn, and ground. If there's a backup light in the same housing that adds another wire, so 4 in total. Which is what you have. The brake and turn functions of the S/T/T lamps use the same filament inside the bulb, so they shave a wire. It's the turn signal switch that decides whether said wire will get continuous power from the BOO switch when you're on the brake pedal or pulsing power from the turn signal or 4-ways flasher. If you happen to be on the brakes with your turn signal on, only one side will receive the BOO switch power while the other will get disconnected from the BOO switch and instead will receive the pulsing on and off from the flasher. If your pair of rear lamps are pre-connected with a harness from the factory, it's common to splice the two running lights wires together so you only have 1 for the both in the main harness, same with backup lights and often grounds. There will always be two wires for the brake/turn filaments, one per side. Based on this I suspect your two solid greens are your brake/turn lights (give them power one at a time to see which wire feeds which side), your two blacks are grounds, the the single red/black and green/yellow feed running lights and backups respectively (not sure which is which, test them one at a time again) on both sides at the same time. I think you mentioned these lamps are Grote or Trucklite, if you know their part number you should be able to pull a wiring diagram off the respective website, alternatively that information could have been provided on the back of the packaging they arrive in.

 

[Greg5OH]

tthanks, they are Grotes, they ar enew takes offs so no wiring diagram and their website sucks too lol.
but your explanation is perfect

 

[Greg5OH]

LCAM, regarding the AC pressure switch in the back of the HVAC unit, the otther end of that goes to the ac clutch correct? Reason I ask is in my EZ wire harness, i have an AC compressor wire that goes into the dash section, thru the fuse panel, and into the engine bay to hook up to the compressor. I assume I just connect this wire to the LG/P wire then?