1984 6.9 IDI, C6, 4WD, Broken Transmission Adapter (Because I'm stupid).

[m002922]

I was using starting fluid (ether) and glow plugs to start my IDI, and apparently that's a bad idea. ( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1368316-1984-ford-f250-idi-automatic-transmission-adapter.html ). I seem to have facilitated the engine deciding to spin the opposite direction against the starter . . .

Now my engine to transmission adapter is broken, and I don't think there's a way to cobble it together such that it would hold for any length of time. Photo here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qaTLFni71KmKAbTVA

I've spun the engine by wrench and it turns completely, so I think if I replace the adapter the engine will run again (at least enough to tell me if I did permanent damage).

Anyone know what years and adapters will work? Are they transmission specific?

Anyone have an adapter they want to sell me? They're pretty expensive on ebay.

I don't really have the tools to pull an engine that size . . . so I was thinking about just trying to unhook the driveshaft and backing the transmission and transfer case back and creating enough room to change it.

Anyone done this or know of any discussions of this? Googling didn't turn anything up.

Eventually I want to do a new motor . . . but right now I just need to try and get it mobile again.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Jesus Freak]

All 6.9/7.3 engine to transmission adapters are the same for a ford transmission be it c6, ZF5, T19, or E4OD. I've got a couple, if you happen to be coming to NW Florida anytime soon.

Sorry to hear about your situation, I know it sure sucks when your truck is done.

And you will need to drop the tranny/transfer case to get the flex plate off so you can access the couple of bolts to remove the adapter. @XOLATEM lives around there somewhere, he might have something too.

 

[Jesus Freak]

Oh yeah, the only way you can be considered "stupid" for this is if just before you did it you had made some statement like "hey man, watch this.....". We've all done worse, stuff happens.......at least to other people, I guess.....I'm perfect, ya know...lol.

 

[m002922]

In the other thread they talk about the ether - glow plug thing as if it is common knowledge . . . I assure you it wasn't common knowledge to me (though it makes sense in hindsight) - though I'll never forget now.

Do you need to drop them, or do you think it might be possible to just remove the driveshaft and slide everything back (unhooking the fluid lines, shift lines, etc) and then replace, and then just slide everything forward. It's sitting on gravel right now, and I don't want to be dropping everything down on a jack on gravel, so I'm trying to think ahead on what would prevent me from doing this. It looks like there is a lot of open space for the transmission to slide back enough to get in there. But I guess the torque converter mounts to the flywheel - I'm assuming I can separate those bolts by rotating everything (I've done that on a 4l80e) and have the torque converter go with the transmission . . . I guess if worst comes to worst I can try and if it doesn't work then I'm dropping it anyway (put wood over the gravel to get some sort of way to have a jack that can move).

 

[Jesus Freak]

I'm pretty sure you're going to want the transmission out of the way when you start fighting that heavy piece of cast iron back into place.

 

[KansasIDI]

I was using starting fluid (ether) and glow plugs to start my IDI, and apparently that's a bad idea. ( https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1368316-1984-ford-f250-idi-automatic-transmission-adapter.html ). I seem to have facilitated the engine deciding to spin the opposite direction against the starter . . .

Now my engine to transmission adapter is broken, and I don't think there's a way to cobble it together such that it would hold for any length of time. Photo here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qaTLFni71KmKAbTVA

I've spun the engine by wrench and it turns completely, so I think if I replace the adapter the engine will run again (at least enough to tell me if I did permanent damage).

Anyone know what years and adapters will work? Are they transmission specific?

Anyone have an adapter they want to sell me? They're pretty expensive on ebay.

I don't really have the tools to pull an engine that size . . . so I was thinking about just trying to unhook the driveshaft and backing the transmission and transfer case back and creating enough room to change it.

Anyone done this or know of any discussions of this? Googling didn't turn anything up.

Eventually I want to do a new motor . . . but right now I just need to try and get it mobile again.

Thank you in advance.

How is said adapter broken? Around the bolt holes?

I would just pull the transfer case and transmission…

Sorry to hear about that, rough going I guess…

Prime time to do a rear main seal… not all is lost IMO

I’ve got four spare adapters if you’d like one… all you’d have to do is PM me your address and pay shipping…

 

[Jesus Freak]

I'd go with the @KansasIDI deal, he's WAY more generous than I am.

 

[Old Goat]

Oh yeah, the only way you can be considered "stupid" for this is if just before you did it you had made some statement like "hey man, watch this.....". We've all done worse, stuff happens.......at least to other people, I guess.....I'm perfect, ya know...lol.

You forgot the "Hold my Beer" part.


Goat

 

[Old Goat]

Be sure to use a Transmission Jack messing with the tranny. Don`t try using a Floor Jack.
The Trans jack has a big plate for it to sit on, and it rises straight up and down, not like a Floor jack that as it goes up it moved to the rear.
It also has a small foot print for the trans to sit on.
You do not want that heavy cumbersome Trans to fall on you.

Be best to find a place on concrete to work on, hard enough to move the jack with weight on it, being on wood will make it harder to roll the jack.

But you gotta do what ya gotta do.


Just be safe.


Goat

 

[m002922]

Be sure to use a Transmission Jack messing with the tranny. Don`t try using a Floor Jack.
The Trans jack has a big plate for it to sit on, and it rises straight up and down, not like a Floor jack that as it goes up it moved to the rear.
It also has a small foot print for the trans to sit on.
You do not want that heavy cumbersome Trans to fall on you.

Be best to find a place on concrete to work on, hard enough to move the jack with weight on it, being on wood will make it harder to roll the jack.

But you gotta do what ya gotta do.


Just be safe.


Goat

I've got a meaty transmission jack with straps and everything that rolls pretty well . . . I'll have everything ready to go for this, but my hope is that i don't have to start bringing that thing down and I can just slide everything back.

The last time I installed a transmission (4l80e) I vowed I would never do it again without a full lift because of how awful it was (I can't remember if I did the 4l80e with transfer case already hooked up or not - I assume not - but it was heavy and cumbersome even with the good transmission jack - on asphalt). But this would probably be just as bad if I leave the transfer case on (if not worse). But if it's coming down then I'll probably go ahead and separate the transfer case and trans because, like you said, I don't want to die via C6 and transfer case.

 

[typ4]

Tcase comes off easy. I dont think just moving it back will give you adequate room , I guarantee it wont be worth the fight.

 

[m002922]

Tcase comes off easy. I dont think just moving it back will give you adequate room , I guarantee it wont be worth the fight.

Easy for you maybe

I'll be down there again to look at it before I do this job . . . so I'll better assess whether my sliding theory makes any sense. You're right that T-Case movement might be an issue.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Oh yeah, the only way you can be considered "stupid" for this is if just before you did it you had made some statement like "hey man, watch this.....".

Or if you do the same thing again after getting this all fixed.

I'm pretty sure you're going to want the transmission out of the way when you start fighting that heavy piece of cast iron back into place.

Everyone's different, but I've never found that piece to be all that difficult to deal with.

m002922, be sure to clean up the new to you adapter plate before you put it back on. They're usually covered in grease. At that time, I also like to clean out the holes for the starter bolts. I'll usually spray some WD-40 or other type of penetrating oil in them and work the bolts in and out several times. That cleans most of the built up crud out of the holes and will make putting the starter bolts back in a lot easier.

 

[Old Goat]

Go down to one of the Auto Supply stores and get a Thread Chaser kit to clean out the holes.
They rent the kits.

I sprayed Kroil in the hole, chased the threads,
sprayed Carb Cleaner in the holes and blew out with air, be sure to use a rag over the holes,
....and wear Safety Glasses.

I just went through this replacing the Clutch.
Removed the T-19, rolled it back and down to give me room to get in there to R&R the FW, and get the PP and Clutch in.
Then roll the Trans forward and raise it up and in. Easy Peasy, sort of.

Goat

 

[ROCK HARVEY]

The only advice I have to add is that I recommend you get a couple extra long 1/2 bolts or some threaded rod to use as guides when you re-install your transmission. I fought mine for an hour trying to get them lined up, and then went to the store to get some long bolts. 5 minutes later I was good to go.

Good luck, I hope that adapter is the only thing broken. Honestly before you start spending money I would do a compression test to get an idea whether you have any bent connecting rods.