when it comes to wiring, i seem to only give incorrect advice.
this is why i wont help you lol
but im learning alot on this thread!
this is why i wont help you lol
but im learning alot on this thread!
Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build
- Thread starter Greg5OH
- Start date
I'm sure I've got an old upright Canister Vacuum...out by shop...Bissel if I recall correctly...
screw the canister, i wanna see that 40! 
sorry man, the hotrodder inside of me wants to be let out
sorry man, the hotrodder inside of me wants to be let out
40?? as in back 40? or *** u talkin bout Willis?
junk
Full Access Member
40 ford I'm guessing.
My canister is plastic and metal, but that one looks reasonable. I'd probably hit a junkyard for that vacuum motor. it's on every truck and super easy to get too. Assuming you have u-pull it yards.
Looking good man. I couldn't imagine trying to rewire a whole truck and still using some of the factory stuff. Factory stuff always seems overly complicated for what it is.
My canister is plastic and metal, but that one looks reasonable. I'd probably hit a junkyard for that vacuum motor. it's on every truck and super easy to get too. Assuming you have u-pull it yards.
Looking good man. I couldn't imagine trying to rewire a whole truck and still using some of the factory stuff. Factory stuff always seems overly complicated for what it is.
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the stock stuff is pretty simple once u breaknit down into its own components, the wy things get power and are hooke together is confusing thougj.
back to starter and gp relays. Am i correct to have starter direct to battery, and a 10awg wire from solenoid to switched relat side, and a cable from battery to hot side of relay whoch powers things and alternaor goes to?
Same deal on glowplugs? Hot one side, harbess on other, trigger wire to the small terminal? How do i make it so my push button only requires to be grounded?
back to starter and gp relays. Am i correct to have starter direct to battery, and a 10awg wire from solenoid to switched relat side, and a cable from battery to hot side of relay whoch powers things and alternaor goes to?
Same deal on glowplugs? Hot one side, harbess on other, trigger wire to the small terminal? How do i make it so my push button only requires to be grounded?
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
Starter - 10 gauge may be a bit thin, what did the factory use, like 6?
Glows - full manual or auto with manual glow option? With auto + manual you're feeding the relay trigger (and, for that matter, the controller) key-on power, then your pushbutton runs on the grounding circuit. When you do full manual I'd recommend switching things around and grounding the relay to the intake, and instead use the pushbutton to feed it 12V trigger. The reason for that is it allows you to move your wait-to-start light from the relay's control circuit to the load side, I'd use the end of the Z-strip where the actual plugs harness connects - this way if the light is on you know the harness is at least receiving power and the relay is working properly, and your indicator light now becomes an aid in troubleshooting as well.
Wipers, you shouldn't be able to mismatch the connectors, they are different color which with Ford means their locating tabs and slots are different. Also you forgot the two grounds. But idk what connector goes where, ours was upgraded to the later-style single-connector motor.
Glows - full manual or auto with manual glow option? With auto + manual you're feeding the relay trigger (and, for that matter, the controller) key-on power, then your pushbutton runs on the grounding circuit. When you do full manual I'd recommend switching things around and grounding the relay to the intake, and instead use the pushbutton to feed it 12V trigger. The reason for that is it allows you to move your wait-to-start light from the relay's control circuit to the load side, I'd use the end of the Z-strip where the actual plugs harness connects - this way if the light is on you know the harness is at least receiving power and the relay is working properly, and your indicator light now becomes an aid in troubleshooting as well.
Wipers, you shouldn't be able to mismatch the connectors, they are different color which with Ford means their locating tabs and slots are different. Also you forgot the two grounds. But idk what connector goes where, ours was upgraded to the later-style single-connector motor.
THE 1940 FORD BUSINESS COUPE!!!
i need me a 1941 pick up so bad!
Greg, i guess i chucked that AC box i had... my bad
LCAM, for the starter solenoid trigger, the post itselt is tiny, takes an 8mm wrench for the nut. I believe the relay just sejnds a bit of current thru it to the solenoid which then uses the heavy 3/0 cable from battery to starter directly.
For feeding it 12v, i just need any ol key on 12v source right? This is a trigger wire so very little current goes thru it.
Nice thing is the fuel pump and coil wire I have are hot while cranking, and my starter trigger works, so today i jsut gotta route the wires and hook em to the relay triggers. The glow plug relay is simple then if I follow LCAMs suggestion. 12v hot on one post, 12v switched to the glowplugs, and 12v trigger wire to the S terminal. I need a battery post with a longer stud lol.
Question regarding fuses. Should I fuse my glowplugs and alternator? I have those blade fuses from 180 amps to 450 amps. I was thinking of running a 175 inline with my alterantor charge wire (1 wire 150 amp unit). Same thing inline with the glowplugs?
heres some quick pics from yesterday.
tickest glow plug harness out there i thinks.
10g orange leads,
8g black branches
4g main feed.
dielectric grease on all the connections, 3:1 adhesive marine grade shrink wrap. I used my Tenco hammer lug crimper to smash the insulated 6 and 4 a3wg butt connectors because i dont have hand crimper sbig enough. It is a super solid connection.
really. grounded. relays. Plus i will run a cable from the plate to the negative terminal as well. I got a large 1" braided strap from block to frame, battery to frame, battery to block.
doubled up 2/0 cables to the starter 2/0 cable alll around for + and - from batteries.
I have since turned the relays 90deg so the S terminal i sfacing up. easier to conect the 4awgs this way.
first time i feel confident in my wiring. everything is so gaddarn protected and sealed it can practically live underwater.
all my lights and other things are on weatherpack connectors. (well, will be. i dont have time to do those right now im leaving extra wire, and there are jsu ton shielded m/f spade connectors).
For feeding it 12v, i just need any ol key on 12v source right? This is a trigger wire so very little current goes thru it.
Nice thing is the fuel pump and coil wire I have are hot while cranking, and my starter trigger works, so today i jsut gotta route the wires and hook em to the relay triggers. The glow plug relay is simple then if I follow LCAMs suggestion. 12v hot on one post, 12v switched to the glowplugs, and 12v trigger wire to the S terminal. I need a battery post with a longer stud lol.
Question regarding fuses. Should I fuse my glowplugs and alternator? I have those blade fuses from 180 amps to 450 amps. I was thinking of running a 175 inline with my alterantor charge wire (1 wire 150 amp unit). Same thing inline with the glowplugs?
heres some quick pics from yesterday.
tickest glow plug harness out there i thinks.
10g orange leads,
8g black branches
4g main feed.
dielectric grease on all the connections, 3:1 adhesive marine grade shrink wrap. I used my Tenco hammer lug crimper to smash the insulated 6 and 4 a3wg butt connectors because i dont have hand crimper sbig enough. It is a super solid connection.
You must be registered for see images attach
really. grounded. relays. Plus i will run a cable from the plate to the negative terminal as well. I got a large 1" braided strap from block to frame, battery to frame, battery to block.
doubled up 2/0 cables to the starter 2/0 cable alll around for + and - from batteries.
I have since turned the relays 90deg so the S terminal i sfacing up. easier to conect the 4awgs this way.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
first time i feel confident in my wiring. everything is so gaddarn protected and sealed it can practically live underwater.
all my lights and other things are on weatherpack connectors. (well, will be. i dont have time to do those right now im leaving extra wire, and there are jsu ton shielded m/f spade connectors).
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junk
Full Access Member
On the starter. They use the fender mounted solendoid to run another solendoid on the starter motor. So normal 14awg or so trigger wire to fender solenoid. Large battery cable to starter main connection. Then run like a 6awg or so line from the fender solenoid out terminal to solenoid terminal on starter. You will need a line from the battery to the fender mounted solenoid. I also hooked my alternator to this line at the solenoid. I used the large blade fuses on the wiring to my 3G alternator.
Can't comment on the glow plug stuff as I left mine factory. I would be inclined to put a blade fuse in it though.
Can't comment on the glow plug stuff as I left mine factory. I would be inclined to put a blade fuse in it though.
Thanks, I hear they can pull 200 amps on initial glow, ill go with a 220 or so fiuse and see how it goes. I got all kinds of real estate space on the wheel cover. I dont understand how you can fit a 6g or so on that tiny little terminal though lol
so.damn.close...I can smell the exhaust fumes and hear the turbo whine. Oh god..cant wait!!!
so.damn.close...I can smell the exhaust fumes and hear the turbo whine. Oh god..cant wait!!!
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Just askin.....just askin...but are you by chance, soldering those large crimps too? I ask cause I did on six wheeler...kinda overkill...but my friend Jordy's GF calls me overkill Al 
so had to ask...either way...lookin really nice!
so had to ask...either way...lookin really nice!Similar threads
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