Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

Kit was 200$ shipped with litht switch, hi/low floor mount aeitch ignition and wiper switch.
Its like 180 shipped without the switches.

Ah which reminds me, i gotta Get a wiring diagram from oreileys tomorrow for hvac, see how the blower fan turns on

 

[LCAM-01XA]

X2 on this. Driving by flash light is no fun.

Neither is hitting a blizzard and realizing those super powerful headlights you recently installed are now only good for creating a massive wall of white fluffy hell in front of you Flashlight at least lets you see the edge line... well, kinda

Greg, you can do the glowplugs however you want them. You can keep the controller and add the manual switch for those emergencies when you drop a plug or two and the controller gets mad at you and doesn't do much of anything useful. Or you can just use the controller as a mounting base for the contactor (the big relay) and run completely off the manual switch, but if you're doing that you might as well ditch the entire factory unit and instead use that huge one that PSD folks upgrade to.

When fusing circuits, put a fuse between your main power source and each relay. The triggers for the relays (so the switches on the dash) can all be fused together, that's not a problem since they're usually way overkill for the current they actually flow in this application.

The blower motor circuitry - the lever that switches vacuum servos to move your air doors also has an electrical switch attached to the back of it, said switch receives key-on power thru a 30-amp fuse and then at any lever position other than OFF it sends power directly to the blower motor. Then the fan speed switch actually controls the motor ground, high being direct ground and the 3 lower settings involving a series of resistors to limit current flow and thus motor speed. Anything else you wanna know about it?

 

[Greg5OH]

Thanks! that is very useful information. I got my dash in the basement so I can start prewiring it in warmth and peace.

now onto my super duty vacuum pump. it has a bunch of ports on it. I assume I just need one that actually pulls vacuum, and have a filtered inlet hose to it. Do I need a vacuum reservoir as well if im using it just for HVAC?
where is the stock IDI vacuum reservoir?

 

[IDIoit]

my can is on the driverside fenderwell
i dont have it hooked up at all
i prolly should with vacuum brakes, but from what i understand only cruise control uses it.
could be wrong.

 

[Greg5OH]

driveside fenderwell...hmm ya dont got one there! If i had time id grab one from a yard for free, gotta ge tone off ebay, cheapest i foudn was a ford ranger one, 17 bucks. Its a little sphere.

ps.. you were registered aug 2104, and have tice as many posts as me! hoooly

 

[IDIoit]

guess im an internet *****...
ive learned alot, and got alot done!

i have alot of time infront of the comp with my business.
atleast i posted that vid you asked for lol

 

[Greg5OH]

What gauge wire to the glowplugs? solenoid ot main harness, and then the little branches that come off of it?
10 for main, 12 for branches?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

driveside fenderwell...hmm ya dont got one there! If i had time id grab one from a yard for free, gotta ge tone off ebay, cheapest i foudn was a ford ranger one, 17 bucks. Its a little sphere.

The HVAC already has a built-in reservoir attached to the heater box (well, evap core plenum), it's the smaller box glued to the engine side of said plenum, vacuum line port is on the top side and is pretty small in size. The coffee can is used only for cruise, and as such it has some rather large ports, and there are two of them to begin with - chances are the ranger one is a single-port setup, likely too small to work properly. But if you don't have cruise then you don't need one anyway.

 

[IDIoit]

What gauge wire to the glowplugs? solenoid ot main harness, and then the little branches that come off of it?
10 for main, 12 for branches?

when i built mine, i went 8ga for everything

 

[laserjock]

It doesn't have to be the factory can if you want one. Any container will work. I'm going to run a half gallon air tank for mine I think. I'm running cruise and have dreams of a vacuum exhaust brake though. [emoji6]

 

[LCAM-01XA]

It doesn't have to be the factory can if you want one. Any container will work. I'm going to run a half gallon air tank for mine I think. I'm running cruise and have dreams of a vacuum exhaust brake though. [emoji6]

I does, however, need to be at least the size of the factory setup in both volume and ports diameter, cruise control on these trucks is a bit of a vacuum hog.

Regarding the exhaust brake, if you're thinking of modifying some off-the-shelf brake be aware they usually have pretty strong hold-open springs, our Pacbrakes won't fully open the butterfly unless they see at least 80 psi, drop under 40 and all you'll hear is the air filling the cylinder with nothing actually happening. So figure it takes around 150 lbs to open the butterfly all the way, how big of a vacuum diaphragm you need to supply that kinda force on 22" of vacuum? Just a thought ya know...

 

[laserjock]

BD makes a vacuum version of the 3" model. I haven't pulled the specs on it but point well taken on canister size.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

BD's vacuum chamber is 3" diameter, says so on their website. Depending on where you're trying to install it on the exhaust, that can make things quite interesting Also since you're stick-shifted behind a mechanical diesel, you don't necessarily need their control setups with the electric solenoid and the brain box, you can get really creative there. For example for pressure-type actuators you can use an Eaton RoadRanger shift valve, you'll need to remove your current shifter knob and weld a 1/2" stud to the shifter and the Eaton setup will thread onto that (cut your shifter down if you want to keep the factory height). Or you could try the differential lock valve, it would go on the dash though. Not sure how any of those valves would react when subjected to vacuum instead of air, wouldn't expect them to misbehave though... Except you may have to drill the shift-valve ports up a few sizes, they can take up to 5/32" air lines (we run 1/8" and it works fine for pressure applications, minimal delay at the exhaust brake) but the holes in the valve itself are still pretty small. Diff lock valves are usually plumbed for 1/4" line so that should be sufficient for vacuum.

 

[Greg5OH]

Got my cable shifters mounted in the cab. Only place i coudl really put them is on the left side of the driver seat. Its a little tight and not the most ergonomic, but i can pop it into4hi on the fly pretty easy which is what i really wanted. AKA driving down some bush roads in 2 hi and need that 4 wheel quick. Just gotta put a plat eunder it as the 14 guage sheet floor isnt that stout. Its pretty hard to shift it, im hoping once im driving and get sokme lube splashed aorund in the case some more and fiddle iwth em, the crud or whatever is on the rails will work itself in. Worst case, I at some point down the road need to change my rear main seal, so ill drop both tcase and trans, put new modified shift rails into the case at that point.
Got my core support mounted up. Its very uggly and propbably the biggest hack job on the truck, but...it works. Maybe down the road I will use it as a template and make a nice, new one. Intercooler piping coming up today, hopefully have that done today, which would complete my powertrain. Prewiring the dash indoors. Need to make a little bracket to mount the fuse panel to. Kicking myself for getting the mini kit, as if i got the full size panel..it would just bolt right into the stock location lol. Fuel gauge coming in today, all others are already in the pods and wired up, jsut gotta connect them to the main harness, using a weatherpack onnector. Down the road I will make a custom gauge cluster to replace the factory one. I will use the 10.5" rear ends VSS to get speedo speed, and the stock tach signal for matching autpo meter ultra lite units. Just dont want to drop another 400 bucks on gauges at the moment. An hour meter will suffice for my oil change schedule for the time being.

should have some decent pics to post up after tonights work session.

 

[IDIoit]

FYI, a work in progress is never a hack job, its " under construction" lol
thats what i tell everyone that asks about my short short bed lol
its still only tach'd together...