Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[Greg5OH]

the only stock wiring left is the turn signal switch. everything else, and i mean everything is gone.

i will post the connector pic tonight.

i goofed and cut the wires for the wiper module too fclose to the plug
basicaly the only stock electrical things on the truck are turn signal switch and i wanted to use the wiper switch, but without that module..duno how it will work?
ill post a pic of the module connector and if anyon knows the connector number ill jsut buy a new one of those and remake a pigtail for it

 

[laserjock]

I happen to have a 90 parts truck that might just contain what you are looking for. [emoji6]

But seriously, having the connector that your column plugged into (assuming the other half is still attached to the column) would be a good step toward sorting out your tail lights I think. What are you doing for headlight switches? Separate parking lights? That would be your running and clearance lights out the back.

 

[Greg5OH]

its a stop turn tail light,
Im using ezwiring fuseblock and wiring harness. Everything is going on toggle switches with little red leds in them. A nice line of switches across the dashboard. Everything is already pre bussed, their manual explains it all nicely. Hopefully should be nice and straight forward.

master ignition switch on the right turns running lights (corners, and tail markers), fuel pump, FSS, cold advance,
left side of the steeering wheel has a double pole momentary switch, one for glowplugs, other side for starter.
master light switch switch turns all runnings lights on,
aux front, aux rear lights
and then the stock turn signal switch will control the turn signals.

speaking of which....you got a wiring diagram for the 91 turn signals on the column?

oooh just remembered i have a new wiper switch from ez wiring already!


http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html

i got the mini 20. the wire is printed to what it goes to all along its length. Going to have to extend the sending unit and tailights though lol.
I like the trailer wiring kit you mentioned, since I want ot get my 7 way plug working out back.,

 

[laserjock]

How about this?

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Google man... Google will set you free.

 

[Greg5OH]

hey your parts truck...you got a tilt column in that thing you wanna sell?

 

[laserjock]

I'm pretty sure it's a straight auto column but I'll look. If height is your problem, you can always cut your firewall and rock the column back a smidge. Not something you probably want to do but it is an option. Could also modify your hanging bracket under the dash to drop it down a bit.

 

[Greg5OH]

I actually need it higher lol, which cat do with the stok cast bracket. Unless i went nuts and built a whole custom pedal holder assembly etc..crazy work

 

[laserjock]

Ah. Tilt on these things was not a tremendous help. I don't know if you've driven one or not but it literally is only the wheel that moves. So if you need a lot of space, that may not get it for you. All the way up it kinda looks like an old cab over bus steering wheel but not quite as flat. It's not like the new ones where the hole column moves. With what you've done so far I'm sure you will figure it out.

 

[Greg5OH]

Thats actually exactly what i need. Wheel to be higher up, but isee what ur saying, it will pivot shortly behind the wheel, instead of translating it vertically like new tilt, it will just pivot.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ah. Tilt on these things was not a tremendous help. I don't know if you've driven one or not but it literally is only the wheel that moves. So if you need a lot of space, that may not get it for you. All the way up it kinda looks like an old cab over bus steering wheel but not quite as flat. It's not like the new ones where the hole column moves.

*** are you talking about? The bricknoses tilt the last half a foot of the column, the hinge is like an inch or two in front of the ignition lock cylinder. That's good for several inches of height change at the wheel, it's a huge difference between straight column and all the way up. Throw in an Econoline steering wheel, or an aftermarket one, and it's even more noticeable - basically the further away the wheel rim is from the pivot the more vertical motion you get. What kinda sucks is that if you like the wheel more horizontal then you gotta live with it being higher too, unless you lift your seat to match. Which makes for more of a big-truck driving position, where your legs are more down than forward. Which if you got short legs may not be very comfortable. Or if your torso is long, your head may end up an inch below the headliner - don't drive down rough roads too fast

It was the '80s passenger cars that pivot right behind the wheel, those are great if you like to change the angle of the dangle but not its overall height.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Greg, I hate to say this but you picked up the most cheapskate-looking brake lamps there are! I mean the rest of your truck is badass, then you go and kill it with these $10 china-freight specials... Come on man, neither of our trucks here have flat beds and each of them still has more and better rear lighting that what you got going on. But hey, your truck your call, but at least double the lamps to 4 in total and use the outboards as tail/turn and the inboards as tail/brake - dedicated turn and brake lamps are whole lot less confusing to drive behind, than getting stuck behind just a pair of combined S/T/T lamps and no 3rd brake light in lousy weather and truing to figure out *** that guy is doing... Seriously dude, you can never have too many rear lamps, and having a flat bed makes it that much easier to add more.

 

[Greg5OH]

Hmm, theyre just standard grote cab chassis take off lamps? cost me 35 bucks! You know I have been thinking to get amber rear turn signals. I still have the 38 LED round lights. I like the cab chassis lights. look very truck like. But the LED ones I have are much, much brighter which is important to me, but th e round lights kinda of dont suit the truck. hmm.

 

[Greg5OH]

cant see much, from this pic, but the exhaust fits up nicely. I think I actually tucked it up too high, might heat the floor too much lol. But if that metal shield stuff is any good like they say then i should be alright.

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exhaust hangers iwll be in shortly goign to weld those in and be good to go. Realised i could have probably used the stock two hangers and been fine but it was cheap enough that i dont mind keeping them in stock.
The pipe is almost no lower than the frame rail, looks good i think. Terminates just under the cab, will figure how to route the rest later, still got a 4 foot section left. No stack thats for sure.

Goal are finis, paint and mount the front end this week by friday night. Put my new carrier bearing on and make a new hanger for it this weekend, mod the clutch pedal and put the seatbelts in as well as the trans inspection cover in the cabin. Hopefully put my tcase shifters on too. Really should have done that when it was on the bench. Next week is dedicated to getting everythign wired and the dash hung, gauges and lights working.

 

[laserjock]

Looks good. I like the flex coupler. Might have to steal that idea.

 

[IDIoit]

i make my own hangers.
a piece of 1" x 1/4" bent around the pipe, straight up, and 90 degree bend with a 3/8" hole in it.
a bushing for isolation, and youre good!

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