Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[laserjock]

Yes. I did some reading and found that out a while back I posted it in a thread here. Looks like you will probably beat me to doing it though. Should be able to just drop a relay in like you would for the fuel pump (same trigger circuit for sure) and to be honest could probably be the same relay if you get right down to it I don't think it will draw that much current that a 30 amp relay probably wouldnt take care of both but separate is always good for minimizing failure points. With hydroboost vacuum isn't a critical need anymore so if it dies you don't want it to take out the fuel pump. I was looking at doing my own vacuum pump and then started reading about the SD's being electric and thought huh... why not use something that is tested in the application instead of guessing and worrying about reliablity. The pressure switch will make it litterally plug and play. The thing that I was working on was figuring out what to run for a ballast (that soup can thing if you had cruise control on the older trucks). Mine is rotted. I know a thing or two about vacuum systems. The ballast is important because it lets you run a smaller pump if your duty cycle isnt constant. Like for example if you only need vacuum to actuate the heater box or the exhaust brake, it would take a sizeable pump to do that on demand and quickly. You can sorta think about it as a resovoir like an air tank or accumulator for well pump system but its a little strange because its just a resovoir of empty space at reduced pressure. As far as tanks, I think I'm going to go with a nice gallon tank I found on amazon a while back.

 

[Greg5OH]

I think for similicity sake I will be making my motor mounts out of the ruffstuff bushed DOM tubes. If i make a sandwich spacer for the stock style mounts it would be hard to get a wrench in there to tighten the motor mount to the crossmemebr mount. And i envision its easier to line up the angles when you have a bolt as a pivot point. PLUS i need ne wmounts anyway as my old ones are toast.

 

[Greg5OH]

basically get these for 25 bucks:
(comes with 6 of your size choosing)

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and use this for the actual mount.

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basicaly something like this will be bolted to engine side:

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have to think it thru a bit still but got a decent idea. Need to grab a coupel rough measuemnts when i go to mock the engine up again now tha ti have the mounts off.

 

[sjwelds]

Looks awesome. Oughta be plenty stout while vibration dampening.

 

[Greg5OH]

what material should I use to make my new trans mount and transfer case mount? 1x1 1/8" thick square tubing?
depoends on how its build too tho right

 

[IDIoit]

One thing you don't want to do is to mix up rubber and solid mounts, do one or the other.

 

[Greg5OH]

its all poly, engine, trans and transfer case. and its a divorced case.

 

[riotwarrior]

1x1 1/8" bit skimpy IMHO 1 1/2 or 2" better idea...remember that beast multiplie torque...aka twist...

I don't remember whom but I think it's Cory who did a divorced mount in IH...maybe I'm wrong...but wow...take a look at that beast...it's massive mount...don't think it's underbuilt....

I'll try n locate the pics of it...

 

[IDIoit]

1x1 1/8" bit skimpy IMHO 1 1/2 or 2" better idea...remember that beast multiplie torque...aka twist...

the only think id be worried about with this set up is that if that bolt breaks, and works itself out, you can kiss your radiator goodbye.
and who knows what else!when i put the PSD in my ranchero, i used the stock cross member cut out of a stock truck.
i wanted the OG mounting style. if the engine mounts do come loose, ill know before any detremental damage is done.

ive done this type on gasser engines without failure, yet.
but these coal burners are a different kinda beasts.

 

[BDCarrillo]

I saw a couple posts ago where you were planning on stuffing the turbo in up top of the intake valley... why not have it off to the side, near the fender? It'll make plumbing it up much easier with room to spare.

Also, here's a source for 90* bends (well, 180* but that's 2x 90's for 14.99), may not be tight enough though.

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/dsm-intercooler-piping/stainless-steel-pipe-thick-p-1173.html

That's also a good site for when it comes time to plumb up the intercooler.

 

[Greg5OH]

where abouts near the fender? therye not much room between the heater box, and battery on passenger side, and all the brake components and reservoirs on driver side..? Nice site tho

 

[BDCarrillo]

Snag a bottle type reservoir for the coolant/vacuum and stick it and both batteries on the passenger side. Straight shot to the starter, and put the turbo on the drivers front. Exhaust routing would be really easy up under the front of the oil pan. If you really think about it, factory turbos are positioned to allow an easy install of the cab on frame. No reason to cramp yourself trying to custom mount it in the intake valley.

 

[Greg5OH]

hmm, thats alooot of exhaust piping tho, something I was trying to minimize. and then where does the pipe from the passenger side go? Not ruling this out..definitly got me thinking..

 

[BDCarrillo]

Flip the stock manifolds pass to drivers and then run the passenger under the oil pan to a Y, then the turbo flange. Route the exhaust down between the steering shaft and crossmember to a single stack or exit behind the cab. Keep the drain above the oil pan rail and plumb it into the pan. Pull pressurized oil off the heat exchanger (i think one of the plugs taps into oil, will check on a spare at home)

Mounting the turbo on the drivers side may be easier, just relocate one battery, but you'd want to be careful about blocking access to the lift pump and starter


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May be a tad late but I found these dimensioned body layouts for F-250's:

Aero Nose (~90's)

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[IDIoit]

i got an extra set of mani's if interested.