Bart F-350
Full Access Member
cracking the injector nuts or not?
fuel flow drawing wanted, can't see how return gets in tank?
- Thread starter Bart F-350
- Start date
gandalf
Senior Member
No. If you're cranking to start do not crack the injectors. That would perhaps let air into the system, right before the cylinder, and certainly allow fuel to escape, lessening the amount of fuel going into the cylinder.
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
I am getting very very bad thoughts now, installed the electric pump before the filter, let it run for a little bit before I started the engine, then started, run it at bout 2000 rpm (not ideal, but thinking of earlier experiences that the engine stopped to run after the fuel in the filter was gone) ran for about 3 minutes and then stopped :-( and couldn't get it to run afterwards.
I'm thinking my electric pump hasn't the capacity to keep up?, I don't know?
in the return line ther is some fuel bubbeling around the bolt I used to block of the line from the filter, where this part normally is in.
anyone knows where I can get this one (or maybe a better one? ) new? 9/16th wrench
I'm thinking my electric pump hasn't the capacity to keep up?, I don't know?
in the return line ther is some fuel bubbeling around the bolt I used to block of the line from the filter, where this part normally is in.
anyone knows where I can get this one (or maybe a better one? ) new? 9/16th wrench
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If that's the same size as the stock one on my truck it's "1/8 inch NPT" (National Pipe Taper) at least I'm pretty sure that's what NPT stands for....
I presume you moved that to the outlet side of the fuel filter correct?
I too am curious why it isn't running. Was the filter empty when it died after you had it running? Shouldn't take a very big pump to make it idle, it's under load where it takes more fuel.
The injector nuts should only be cracked until you see fuel at them, then you're supposed to tighten them up. That's just to bleed the air out. Apologies if there was any misunderstanding.
I presume you moved that to the outlet side of the fuel filter correct?
I too am curious why it isn't running. Was the filter empty when it died after you had it running? Shouldn't take a very big pump to make it idle, it's under load where it takes more fuel.
The injector nuts should only be cracked until you see fuel at them, then you're supposed to tighten them up. That's just to bleed the air out. Apologies if there was any misunderstanding.
Well that's what I thought, but it's tapered instead of straight which is "NPS" So I just assumed that NPT must be to designate tapered. Maybe the only differentiation is required for straight threads then because tapered is "normal"
I'd better stop before this turns into another drill bit debate....
This little dinky pump runs my 7.3 non-turbo fine, wide open full load.
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
This starts to really get on my nerves now!
one of the farmers here told me to crack the injector nut closest to the firewall, I did, both of them, and it gave a little difference, there was the slightest idea that the engine would start, but then again, no!
would a little bit of start pilot make any difference? (I was under the impression this engine doesn't take that well???)
one of the farmers here told me to crack the injector nut closest to the firewall, I did, both of them, and it gave a little difference, there was the slightest idea that the engine would start, but then again, no!
would a little bit of start pilot make any difference? (I was under the impression this engine doesn't take that well???)
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
and one more question,I feel that this truck has very little endurance when it comes to starting, maybe 6 or 8 times of starting a bit longer than normal, and the batteries are empty (again!) is that the case with your trucks as well?
and the positive lead of the starter is Too hot to touch!
and the positive lead of the starter is Too hot to touch!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Use only a little bit. Only use it after you disable the glow plugs. If they come on after you spray it, it could cause an explosion inside your engine and that wouldn't be good.
This is making me wonder if your starter isn't in very good condition. If the starter doesn't spin the engine over fast enough, it won't start. With everything that you have done, and the engine not starting, it makes me think that the starter isn't spinning the engine over fast enough.
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
that would be a bummer! everything I need for that engine/truck I need to get from your side of the ocean, that means expensive and waiting before it arrives :-(
That was soo different when I bought her...
I'm recharging the batteries now, and when tey are full, I guess I gonna use a small puff of start pilot, in what way can I disable the glow plugs?
That was soo different when I bought her...
I'm recharging the batteries now, and when tey are full, I guess I gonna use a small puff of start pilot, in what way can I disable the glow plugs?
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
according to my fusebox it's fuse position 18, but if I pull that one the wait to start light stills comes on???
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Pull your fuse #18 and listen for the audible click of the GP Relay controller. If you don’t hear the click, you are good to go.
When using a small amount of starting fluid and disabled GP’s. You do not need to “wait to start”
Do you have a block heater? If so plug that in an hour before you start it as well.
Then once running, put a meter on your batteries and see if the charging system is working.
When using a small amount of starting fluid and disabled GP’s. You do not need to “wait to start”
Do you have a block heater? If so plug that in an hour before you start it as well.
Then once running, put a meter on your batteries and see if the charging system is working.
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
Thanks.
wait to start, I was thinking that when that light is lit, the plugs are glowing.
Block heater, it seems to be there, but cabling is ruined, no problem, since heater is 110V 60Hz, and our systems are 240V 50Hz wouldn't have worked anyways.
but outside it's 30*C I guess that's the same effect as the block heater
and yes, alternator works, it's just that this engine needs such ridiculous amounts of current to get started.
I did remove fuse 18, but the relays is still clicking, is there a different way to disable the glow plugs?
wait to start, I was thinking that when that light is lit, the plugs are glowing.
Block heater, it seems to be there, but cabling is ruined, no problem, since heater is 110V 60Hz, and our systems are 240V 50Hz wouldn't have worked anyways.
but outside it's 30*C I guess that's the same effect as the block heater
and yes, alternator works, it's just that this engine needs such ridiculous amounts of current to get started.
I did remove fuse 18, but the relays is still clicking, is there a different way to disable the glow plugs?
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