Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
For a 100% sure way, remove the hot wire from the relay and tape it up so it can't touch anything.
James
James
fuel flow drawing wanted, can't see how return gets in tank?
- Thread starter Bart F-350
- Start date
Old Goat
Full Access Member
If you have a heat gun...one of these..
www.harborfreight.com
Take the lid off the Air Filter, pull out the element, (don`t want to set it on fire, did that one time)
stick the heat gun down the intake, let it run a minute or so crank the engine over and it sucking in the hot air will start.
You can let it suck in the air till it smooths out.
Be sure to run the electric wires over the Drivers side Fender.
Keep them away from the Fan/Belts.
Won`t cause any damage to the engine like Starting Fluid could, might, maybe do.
Did that lots of times in the dead of winter. Worked every time when my GP`s did not.
Goat
1500 Watt 11 Amp Dual Temperature Heat Gun
Amazing deals on this 1500 Watt Dual Temp Heat Gun (700°/1000°) at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
Take the lid off the Air Filter, pull out the element, (don`t want to set it on fire, did that one time)
stick the heat gun down the intake, let it run a minute or so crank the engine over and it sucking in the hot air will start.
You can let it suck in the air till it smooths out.
Be sure to run the electric wires over the Drivers side Fender.
Keep them away from the Fan/Belts.
Won`t cause any damage to the engine like Starting Fluid could, might, maybe do.
Did that lots of times in the dead of winter. Worked every time when my GP`s did not.
Goat
Cant Write
Full Access Member
both @Rdnck84_03 and @Old Goat have great suggestions.
I believe the white wire my finger is touching is the trigger wire on one side of the coil that engages the relay. If you lift that wire, it should not click.
If I’m wrong, hopefully others can point to that photo guiding you.
Not sure how hard it is to access on a pickup.
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I believe the white wire my finger is touching is the trigger wire on one side of the coil that engages the relay. If you lift that wire, it should not click.
If I’m wrong, hopefully others can point to that photo guiding you.
Not sure how hard it is to access on a pickup.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Another thing, as I’m currently tracking down a fuel intrusion issue. I’ll show you how my fuel system is routed. Maybe it will jog or help with something
Cant Write
Full Access Member
Hope this might help.
This is how my van came when I bought it. Fuel Filter relocated to trans cross member.
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This is how my van came when I bought it. Fuel Filter relocated to trans cross member.
Cant Write
Full Access Member
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My son’s finger is pointing to the return from injector #2.
On the left (RHS of vehicle) is the supply from mechanical fuel pump.
On the right (LHS of vehicle) is the supply to the injection pump.
It’s opposite cause photo is taken looking towards rear of vehicle
Cant Write
Full Access Member
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That shows my “TEE” that connects #7 and #8 and returns back to the tank. The green clamp is its connection going straight back to the fuel tank.
If anyone sees issues with my routing, I’d love to know it.
Hope this helps!!
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
I am soo happy with all your help, I'm not sure if I had thought of all that, and despite of being the owner of this truck already for 18 years, I didn't knew the technic all that well, the bloody thing stood most of the time here, waiting for it's official registration...., sometimes in some countries they can be real donkeys!
I Think Old Goat has the most simple solution, I might gonna try that one first.
Thanks lads so far
I Think Old Goat has the most simple solution, I might gonna try that one first.
Thanks lads so far
It is very true that cranking speed affects compression, and if it's too slow it will be hard to start. But even then you should still have white smoke puffing out of the exhaust as the raw un-ignited fuel is pumped through the engine.
I think a squirt of ether is in order, you can take the glowplug wires off, all 8, if you can't figure out how to disable them.
If it will only run on the ether, and stops when you stop squirting it in the engine, you still have fuel problems.
I think a squirt of ether is in order, you can take the glowplug wires off, all 8, if you can't figure out how to disable them.
If it will only run on the ether, and stops when you stop squirting it in the engine, you still have fuel problems.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I forgot to mention to be sure to check your cable connections to make sure that they're clean and tight. Also check your positive battery cables for resistance. Do this before thinking about buying another starter.
We had a f350 dump truck that would be very hard to start. And I had my f250 pickup also that started great. You could drift the f350 off a hill and it would start. And you could compare it to my f250, it cranked much slower.
So I parked them side by side, and started swapping parts. First thing I did was swap the starters. My starter which cranked over my truck fast, would hardly turn the f350 over. Getting plenty of voltage at the starter so I took my starter off the f350, and that is when I noticed where the starter mounting surface was corroded and did not look good.
I was able to get a wire wheel on the end of a drill, and get up in there and clean the mounting area off. It took awhile. Put my starter on, cranked right over and started. I then put the old f350 starter back on the f350, cranked slow. I put that starter on my truck, cranked slow. I think we ruined the starter on the f350 trying to crank it with all that resistance to ground on the mounting surface. Another starter later and everything was good.
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
I'm happy enough that I don't have that problem.
I know it from VW vanagons though.
I'd like to announce a positive thing, after all this energy sapping trying, this afternoon she decided to toss the towel in the ring, and run!!!
I also think I might have found the culprit; air!
I'll make sure she's get reliable again, and then build her back to original filters etc. (I assume with all the contamination in the system It will fill up a few of the cheap filters before)
I do need to buy a few new parts, maybe you can point me to where I can get them (since I'm in France). and does anyone here know how to post a little film of her running up here?
Thanks to all of you for your patience and good help!
This one I need anouther, which one would be better? one with the ball and spring, or the one with the rubber interior? it installs with a 9/16th spanner.
I know it from VW vanagons though.
I'd like to announce a positive thing, after all this energy sapping trying, this afternoon she decided to toss the towel in the ring, and run!!!
I also think I might have found the culprit; air!
I'll make sure she's get reliable again, and then build her back to original filters etc. (I assume with all the contamination in the system It will fill up a few of the cheap filters before)
I do need to buy a few new parts, maybe you can point me to where I can get them (since I'm in France). and does anyone here know how to post a little film of her running up here?
Thanks to all of you for your patience and good help!
This one I need anouther, which one would be better? one with the ball and spring, or the one with the rubber interior? it installs with a 9/16th spanner.
You must be registered for see images attach
I would imagine the ball and spring style would hold up better.
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
And where could I get such a piece?
Bart F-350
Full Access Member
first run after complete fuel system clean-up This is video
It turned out that I, in order to get her running, with a lot of fuel hose and hose-clamps and the necessary magic needed the assistance of a electric fuelpump, and it turned out that somewhere in the line the system had some air intrusion. after again starting at the tank, and checking and re-tightening all connections, she started, letting her run for 10-15 minutes increasing revs to 2000Rpm, I slowly reve'd down, stopping the engine, disconnected the e-pump and had again problems starting the engine.
since glowplugs were disabeled (and the engine being warm) a little "Whiff" of
startpilot was enough to bring her back to life.
again letting her run for 10-15 minutes was enough to assure me that it's ok now, and one hour later I tried to restart her, no problem, a quarter of a turn!
now see how things hold trough the night???
It turned out that I, in order to get her running, with a lot of fuel hose and hose-clamps and the necessary magic needed the assistance of a electric fuelpump, and it turned out that somewhere in the line the system had some air intrusion. after again starting at the tank, and checking and re-tightening all connections, she started, letting her run for 10-15 minutes increasing revs to 2000Rpm, I slowly reve'd down, stopping the engine, disconnected the e-pump and had again problems starting the engine.
since glowplugs were disabeled (and the engine being warm) a little "Whiff" of
startpilot was enough to bring her back to life.
again letting her run for 10-15 minutes was enough to assure me that it's ok now, and one hour later I tried to restart her, no problem, a quarter of a turn!
now see how things hold trough the night???
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