Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT2
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http://www.nokiantires.com/tyre?id=132512&group=3.01.01&name=Nokian+Hakkapeliitta+LT2
Standard issue in Alaska... Don't know if Oregon allows studded tires (or tyres...)?
Added two more doors.
- Thread starter Leeland
- Start date
http://www.nokiantires.com/tyre?id=132512&group=3.01.01&name=Nokian+Hakkapeliitta+LT2
Standard issue in Alaska... Don't know if Oregon allows studded tires (or tyres...)?
In the middle of swapping fuel lines and tanks. I've seen all sorts of comments in threads about fuel tanks etc but here's what I found between my 93's on the front tanks. The diesel having a plastic front tank and the gasser crew having a steel front tank.
Diesel/plastic tank heat shield. Has a upper shield that bolts to the side shield that protects the plastic tank. There is also (not pictured) a L shaped steel skid plate that doubles up the inboard side protection. The clean spots in the top lip of the side shield fore and aft are where it mounts. Heat shield bolts are also inboard to (face) the bed and tank, not fun to access and the side shield has 2 holes to bolt to the tank straps unlike the shield in the gasser crew with the steel front tank.
Gasser/steel tank heat shield. No upper plate. What it there is attached on the bed to both trucks.
Diesel/plastic tank front strap. Mounts to the frame and runs at a angle to the cross member by the rear of the cab.
Gasser/steel tank front strap hooks into the crossmember by the rear of the cab instead of bolting to the frame like the diesel/plastic tank. (I didn't think about getting a pic of it with the tank in)
About where the outboard front strap mounting hole should be but isn't on the gasser crew. The hole just before my finger is utilized by a wiring retainer on the diesel reg cab. Measuring from the rear rivet for the crossmember the hole needs to be like 6 5/8" ish and the hole present is not far enough back so there is no confusion that I have to drill another hole. Was a little surprised there wasn't a hole already there though.
Also found my rear diesel tank is a steel one, the crew was missing it's rear so can't really compare.
Plan is to transfer the fuel lines and selector with a section of lines far enough ahead to be able to extend them later so that the tanks can be re-installed and still have access to the lines that need lengthened. Had a little more fuel in that front tank then I remembered, just want to get it back in. Like ripping off a band aid I suppose, not fun just want to get it over with.
Not sure if this is a diesel/gasser thing or a plastic/steel thing as I don't know if some of the gassers had plastic tanks. Just some differences I found doing my swap between two same year trucks.
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Diesel/plastic tank heat shield. Has a upper shield that bolts to the side shield that protects the plastic tank. There is also (not pictured) a L shaped steel skid plate that doubles up the inboard side protection. The clean spots in the top lip of the side shield fore and aft are where it mounts. Heat shield bolts are also inboard to (face) the bed and tank, not fun to access and the side shield has 2 holes to bolt to the tank straps unlike the shield in the gasser crew with the steel front tank.
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Gasser/steel tank heat shield. No upper plate. What it there is attached on the bed to both trucks.
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Diesel/plastic tank front strap. Mounts to the frame and runs at a angle to the cross member by the rear of the cab.
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Gasser/steel tank front strap hooks into the crossmember by the rear of the cab instead of bolting to the frame like the diesel/plastic tank. (I didn't think about getting a pic of it with the tank in)
You must be registered for see images attach
About where the outboard front strap mounting hole should be but isn't on the gasser crew. The hole just before my finger is utilized by a wiring retainer on the diesel reg cab. Measuring from the rear rivet for the crossmember the hole needs to be like 6 5/8" ish and the hole present is not far enough back so there is no confusion that I have to drill another hole. Was a little surprised there wasn't a hole already there though.
Also found my rear diesel tank is a steel one, the crew was missing it's rear so can't really compare.
Plan is to transfer the fuel lines and selector with a section of lines far enough ahead to be able to extend them later so that the tanks can be re-installed and still have access to the lines that need lengthened. Had a little more fuel in that front tank then I remembered, just want to get it back in. Like ripping off a band aid I suppose, not fun just want to get it over with.
Not sure if this is a diesel/gasser thing or a plastic/steel thing as I don't know if some of the gassers had plastic tanks. Just some differences I found doing my swap between two same year trucks.
Last edited:
ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
Just curious to the differance in the sending units for gas vs diesel. Since you have them side by side can a diesel use the gas sending unit minus the pump?
I can do outside pics but I have no plans to remove the sending unit from the tank out of the diesel. It's not leaking and it runs below 1/4 tank with no issue. I'm sure if you wanted to you could run the gasser sending unit if you had the correct pigtail (2pin diesel vs 4pin gasser) for it and removed the pump from it by running a straight piece of tube in it's place if it's for the same style tank ie plastic vs steel. My steel tank has the lock ring with the tabs you tap on to turn it x amount to lock it in while the plastic is just a plastic ring that threads on to the tank similarly to the ring on a mason jar if you know any one that cans at home.
Did figure out the strap deal: tank size. The steel gasser tank is a 19 gallon and the plastic tank out of the diesel is a 16 gallon. 19 gallon front strap runs directly across vehicle longitude, 16 gallon runs at a angle.
Did figure out the strap deal: tank size. The steel gasser tank is a 19 gallon and the plastic tank out of the diesel is a 16 gallon. 19 gallon front strap runs directly across vehicle longitude, 16 gallon runs at a angle.
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Finally got around to trimming down the auto harness. Closed and looped the neutral safety circuit into the harness, all that comes out is the t-case and reverse light circuits. Terminated all the solenoid pack wiring just after the beginning of the original taping. Still needs sheathing and will trim the reverse light wires and add a connector to the trans. Was ghetto and just ran the mlps taped up previously.
Reverse lights
Purple/orange- fuse x
Black/pink to back up lights
Neutral safety circuit
White/pink
Red/light blue -looped together
Black-pcm ground.
Last edited:
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
The gas and diesel frames are the same for the 460/diesel, maybe not so much for smaller displacement gas engines.
Steel tanks are common for diesel, they are just not galvanized inside.
Didn't think there was. Drilling the frame for the front strap and cutting out the gasser engine mount buckets are the only frame mods needed so far and probably for the whole swap.
Tanks, it's just one of those things I need to see to understand what's going on, what's different, what needs to happen. I've heard the galvanized bit before and people have talked about sizes etc but with no pics I wasn't sure how to ID which is which until I looked up replacement tanks.
Tanks, it's just one of those things I need to see to understand what's going on, what's different, what needs to happen. I've heard the galvanized bit before and people have talked about sizes etc but with no pics I wasn't sure how to ID which is which until I looked up replacement tanks.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I bought that same tire step.
Got mine on sale at northern tool.
Definitely has come a long ways.
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Got mine on sale at northern tool.
Definitely has come a long ways.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Clear turns are kinda hit and miss for me. I'm good with stockers for now, rather spend money on stroke stuff. Still need a clutch, DP just to put it in.
That step I found among my father's things. Pretty useful little item I'm finding.
That step I found among my father's things. Pretty useful little item I'm finding.
I get a prettyy good deal on clutches at PTW.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Either mine is tight as all get out, or I have a smf.
No gear rollover noise either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No gear rollover noise either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Ran into a little issue hanging the drive line: my diesel reg cab had 1330 series u-joints, the gasser crew had 1350's. So now I need a new long pinion 1350 yoke. Temp fix is going to be a transition u-joint but I do want to replace the yoke at some point.
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