ZF-5 Update and a whole world of questions.

[Camarogenius]

Well, it looks like I have the parts to build one complete transmission, except I don't have an output yoke, or a clutch fork.
Just as described, All the innards were in a box. I've got three cases, and a box that looks like the cover of the Bachman-Turner Overdrive album "Not Fragile". lol
So. How do I tell which parts are diesel, and which are gasser?
Looking on the shafts, which gears are which? (12345R) How do I tell what gears are bad?
How do I tell the difference between a bad syncro and a good one?
I've got 3 mainshafts, (I think) and only one lower shaft.
There are three shift rods that fit into three recesses in the front of the case. Inside those recesses is a springloaded detent pin. How do I get those held up while I put the cases together?
Do I need to remove the tiny little freeze plugs on the top of the case, and drop them in after the cases are together?Where is this mythical detent spring in the shift tower that I hear is so worrisome? I don't have one, so I'll have to get one.

 

[Camarogenius]

Bump

 

[hugeredford]

I have 3 [I think} 4x4 zf transmisions two are for big blocks one small block The big block gears will fit directly to a diesel engine but will have to have a diesel case The small block trans has a longer output but has several good gears and extra parts My suggestion is to take your transmission to a professional I have had the same one apart three times and finally admited defeat. also the shift fork detent plugs can be removed by putting a punch on one side and hit it one time really fast to turn it sideways and then pull it out with needlenose pliers. this sounds like a job that is almost imposible to tackle because it takes magic to make one work perfectly the first time. the three transmissions I have could be bought cheaply probably all for 300 dollars take in to account there are some minor parts missing -I am located in springfield illinois

 

[krawlr]

You got this right?:

http://www.oilburners.net/articles/S5-42.pdf

The syncros are the brass cone clutches. You'll only see the teeth around the outside of them with the mainshaft assembled. When you push the cone twards the cup it should be able to grip the cup. When worn the face of the teeth will meet the face of the cup and not grip. This is hard to describe but you will see the parts and it will make more sense with the mainshaft apart.

And I think the forks should be unpinned from the shafts during disassembly and the shafts stayed in the case until after you pulled it off.

 

[Camarogenius]

Hugeredford, Gimmie some time to raise some cash. This latest parts buying spree replete with cross country travel and drama between a buyer and seller,(I'm just the transporter) Has my cashflow a bit pinched right now. I'm about 40 or 50 miles from you. I'm on hwy 16 between Litchfield and Jerseyville.

Krawler, I'm going to prowl through that link in a minute. The syncros "look" like new. I don't see any chipped teeth on any of the gears either. I don't see anything glaringly wrong. That's what confuses me. They were disassembled for some reason.
The only info I got was the guy thinks the diesel was jumping out of reverse.
What specifically would cause this? what do I look for?
Finally, How many of you read my first post and Googled B.T.O. "Not Fragile"?
I hope I'm not the only one who remembers that great album. I used to have it on Vinyl.

 

[Camarogenius]

So, does anyone here have any experience running gasser gears in a ZF-5?
I was told on another board, that the jump between 2nd and 3rd was too far.
Is this true?

 

[hugeredford]

My friend ran gas gears didn' even notice difference the only reason for different gears was to get more low end power out of wussie gas motors your 4th and od are the same won't have a drop in milage