Your preferred transfer case?

[dunk]

What transfer case do you guys prefer to run and why?

I popped another 208 in 460 truck in the snow. Probably my 5th or 6th in that truck, they've always been cheap around $20 so I just always have a spare and have been known to bring one with me off road just in case. Seem to get a year or two out of them with winter use and occasional off road.

I have three cases under my bench, a 208, a 1356 fixed yoke manual shift gear speedo, and a married 205. Original plan for the 460 truck was a 1356 since it's a bolt in swap just make a new shift linkage. Then I found the married 205 cheap and figured maybe that's better, easy to twin stick and could do a doubler with a 203 but can get expensive and required new driveshafts, new crossmember, etc...

Thinking I'll just swap in my last 208 since it's quick and easy and I don't know if I'll hang on to 460 truck or not. The IDI has a 208 as well behind the C6. It will be getting a ZF5 like 460 truck, and lockers/lift/tires. Thinking the 1356 may be stronger and if I do the oil pump mod should hopefully not fail. The 205 I'm not sure if it's worth the extra work and money to make it work, but it should be indestructible behind an IDI and gives more flexibility with twin stick and doubler. I know the 205 front driveshaft would hit my exhaust on the 460 truck (long tubes and side pipes) probably would be an issue with the ridiculous mile long Banks up pipes on my IDI, but an ATS type crossover may fit fine. I suspect I may need to go with a different turbo setup when I do the ZF5 so that's not a deal breaker. Just weighing my options.

 

[franklin2]

How do you "pop" 5 or 6 transfer cases? I think I would examine my driving style/what I was doing with the truck. I have plowed with a 208 in a gas truck and now I have one of the later transfer cases in the 89 idi and I plow with it also. Never popped a transfer case.

I think you will find also 4.10's are easier on the drivetrain than 3.55's.

 

[Clb]

205, there's a reason for the legend.
But for all the extra work ,,, toss in the last 208???

 

[LCAM-01XA]

What 208, slip or fixed rear yoke? The slips are so-so, the fixed ones generally tend to hold up much better.... as with any other t-case really. So how did you break it exactly, did the case split, or what? Got a fixed-yoke 208 behind a 435 behind a 7.3 so kinda would be nice to know what to expect as possible failure.

For a '92-up truck with their PSOM setup I'd be very tempted to run a NV271, thing is a beast and still has nice low range. Generally won't break your aluminum tailshaft housing between the trans and the case either, unlike the 205 if you don't give it the side support. No built-in speedometer though, so no go for a '91 or older truck, unless you don't care for the speedometer or cruise control.

 

[dunk]

Fixed yoke 208, I've always avoided slipyokes in trucks. Failure occurred after accelerating in snow from a stop to about 30-35 MPH. Loud pop then some rattling and grinding. unlocked the hubs and made do without, later needed the front axle so locked the case and while there was a lot of slop in the front shaft i could not turn it fully by hand, and the front did get me where I needed to get for the few seconds I needed it at idle. Haven't opened it up so not sure the exact failure.

Franklin, as for how I pop several? Some just like this one, driving pretty gently on snow and ice, others have been in low range idle off road crawling over things (dirt/mud no rock out here) and others been at 6500 with plenty of wheelspin (abuse, but this case never saw that while I've had it). My driving style is pretty gentle/slow/steady when the front is locked. I learned a long time ago that going fast means less control and breaking parts. Thinking back, I've never broke a 208 with a 302 or 351w or with 33" or smaller tires. Tires that are heavier and aggressive enough to get traction when you actually need 4x4 seem to be the common factor, along with higher output engines. Anecdotablly I don't notice any correlation between what specifically is occurring at the time of failure (i.e. just off idle in low, driving gently in snow in high range, more throttle and some wheel spin in mud, etc.). You are right that with 4.10:1 the transfer case would see less load, but I want 2000 RPM or less at 70 MPH which won't happen with 4.10 becomes more difficult.

I think the 205 would be ideal, different length shafts isn't a big deal as I'd get them made up with at least 1350 joints, maybe 1410. Probably worth the extra work to be once and done, particularly as I'd like to put a locker in front. I know that's a no go with a 208 but not sure how a 1356 would handle a locked D60 with 35" tires.

 

[sassyrel]

as clb said,,205.....damned heavy,,and damned tough....like the old 24's.......

 

[kuskoal]

Bw1356. Aside from that pump mod. You have a fixed rear yoke? Lucky.

The np205 is tried and true, but HEAVY. so heavy you need that extra crossmember. Also you need to do some trimming of the tailshaft housing.

 

[franklin2]

Strange they would go like that. I have 35" tires on my idi and the plow also. I was hitting this heavy snow we had this weekend pretty hard trying to get it out of the way. No problems so far. I am going to ask what may be some insulting questions, but I have to ask;

Do you have a matched set of tires front and rear? Are they worn the same?

I have heard stories of people putting the wrong ratios in when swapping front/rearends. Most of the time the truck acts crazy in 4wd when this happens, but you never know.

 

[Black dawg]

fix the pump in the 1356, and it will do great. 205 is great, if you have the axle gearing to run it.

 

[riotwarrior]

203/205 and the thinnest adapter plate...NWF or whoever created it originally, is same length within 1/2" of a slip yoke 1356...just saying...

I'm needing to get the adapter plate and gear and I can have me a built 03/05 range box setup.

1356 from one ton with PTO adapter is 1/2 aluminum case, oddly it can be made into a dual range too.. like a 203 box, so can the 3/4 ton model with magnesium case, but aluminum easier to weld.

I too wonder how you break 6 tcases and what breaks in them?

If you having that level of failure, may want to go 205 ASAP IMHO

Good luck with choice...oh...may consider an air shift from a 5 ton military too..then no breakyanymore!

 

[Dieselcrawler]

4404....

 

[marmot]

4404....

HMMM chain driven grenade anyone.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

4407 is actually plenty easy to obtain, supposedly the internals are beefier than the 1356 ones. Like the 271 it would require a companion flange type yoke or the rear shaft, and again if your truck is '91 or older you lose speedometer and cruise.

Dunk, maybe your cheap 208s were just well abused before they fell into your hands? Ours is a low-miles rebuild and has seen plenty of 4x4 action both off pavement and on snow-covered roads in the mountains, also been stuck quite a few times with one front wheel stopped completely and the other hopping up and down as it tries to grab some traction. Soon gonna throw a front Trac-Loc in the mix too, getting tired of this essentially 1-wheel drive (rear is LSD, but being a dually it doesn't take much to get all 4 spinning back there) so it's up to the front to do most work.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

1356 from one ton with PTO adapter is 1/2 aluminum case, oddly it can be made into a dual range too.. like a 203 box, so can the 3/4 ton model with magnesium case, but aluminum easier to weld.

There is always the Strong Box from Behemoth, it runs whatever planetary gears you want (1356 being a very popular choice) but in a purpose built and much stronger case. So like the 203-whatever doubler, but lighter and with lower low ranges. Costs about the same as the standard double adapter and the resplined (or new) 203 output shaft.

 

[Clb]

Atlas? Crazy money. Everything a gearbead needs in one 4k check!
Great tech feedback.