X thread inj line!

[pafixitman]

Not sure if it was my doing or not. #7 inj line needed a crow's foot and breaker bar in order to get it off to replace the return cap. I ran it back on w/ my fingers until it got tight (nothing like the other 7 though) and then used a wrench. Of course #7 is the one spitting hot and heavy. I cranked down on it a bit more, but I'm guessing it is cross threaded. Is a new injector and line my only recourse?

As a side note, I do not think anyone intended return lines to last 13 yrs! Mine were very brittle. I replaced every piece of rubber fuel hose under the hood.

She ain't getting fixed today any way. I'm at Reynolds working on those dang financial statements!

 

[Exekiel69]

somebody posted before that if you press it properly it should be able to tight it by hand, and yes it is possible. Only thing when you want to put those line back it is good to loose the bracket that hold them all together. To drive the caps back ON I use vaseline and a socket with a 6" extension on it to tap it down, also to pry them up I use one of those curved drum adjusting tool wich is small but wide enough. Wish I had my truck Joe, I could go and help.

 

[pafixitman]

Is it possible that the cap is not seated and the nut is just bottoming out on the cap? This is the one that started the whole mess and seems to still be the thorn in my side! I replaced the fuel line that runs under the turbo across the back of the intake. I wonder if that new hose (bulk hose, not all twisted like the old one) is just holding the cap up and it is not seated. Hmm. maybe later today I'll get a chance to see.

I assumed cross threaded since it will not tighten any more and still leaks.

Steph had shut the door on a seat belt and I discovered late yesterday the batteries were dead. I charged her over night and hoped to drive her today. Saw the fuel leak and did not have time to play since I had to go to work.

The brake tool is a good idea. I just used a screw driver and popped the caps off, I used a dental pick to remove the o-rings.

I'm going thru truck withdrawl! At least I (still!) have the smell of diesel on my hands!

 

[f-two-fiddy]

I'd think that the injector is harder than the nut. Which would leave me to believe that the injector line nut is shot, the injector is prolly OK. You might have some copper shavings off the line nut to deal with.

I can't think of any way to fix the threads on a line nut????? I mean, there's no way to get a tap on the nut, to fix the threads.

 

[Cowboy_Customs]

I know exactly what your going through, I had the exact same problem when I did mine 2 weeks ago!! Only I actually did cross thread the driverside rear. And somethin went wrong with the pass. side 2nd injector back from the front. (I havent memorized what side is what numbers yet so bear with me, my chiltons is downstairs) I replaced the D-side rear line completly, it took about 5 minutes to get it threaded right cause it did chew up the injector just enough to want to x-thread again. and the other one on the pass. side I just completly unthreaded the line nut, pushed down on the return cap to make sure it was seated (it was) and rethreaded the nut, but this time I made sure the line was seated on top of the injector before screwing the nut back on. N it worked! I wasent in the mood to remove other lines on the IP to get to the one i wanted to replace so i tried that, and I (knock on wood) havent had any problems with it so far! Make sure it isnt x-threaded, by the sounds of it, it is, on mine it was obvious after it all happened. Hope this helps!

 

[pafixitman]

Well, I am still at work, getting ready to leave. 45 minute drive and I was just given a grocery list when I called the house so playing w/ the truck when I get home is out...

What gives first - the line nut or the injector? I think the dealer in York has the line in stock. Well, I know he does! :Sly What are the chances I destroyed the threads on the injector?

I was trying hold the line with my left hand and start the nut w/ my right...Like I mentioned before - this one did not unscrew by hand at all and I needed a breaker bar to get it loose

CC- Driver side is even 2,4,6,8 Pass side is odd 1,3,5,7 front to back

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Well the line nut is copper, and the injector is steel. Generally, the softer threads will give first.

 

[pafixitman]

Thanks Rob.

I lied. Blew off the g-store and messed w/ the truck a bit. I removed the nut and tried to start it again. It's done...cross threaded that is. If my guess is correct #7 is on the bottom of the spider. With my luck and vehicles this month, I'm glad January is almost over!

Oh well. I never said an education was cheap!

 

[F350camper]

Well, the good news is you're good at guessing. The bad news is, you're right. 7 is dead center on the bottom.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

How do the threads on the Inj. look?

With the proper tool (injector line socket) you can get the line off the IP, without removing the pump.

 

[pafixitman]

From what I could tell, they are good. I ran my finger around them and they seemed clean, there was some metal shavings which "brushed" off. (No, it did not get into the injector. I was a good boy and promply wiped my diesel covered finger with said shaving on the pant leg of my good jeans!)Again, i will guess it was injector line nut threads! It was after I did this that I seated the line and threaded the nut on by hand (much further than before) tightened and noticed it touches the cap on the outer edge, not the inner edge (cocked). Still sent a nice squirt of $2.50 / gallon in the air and on the firewall.

No injector line tool. just a crow's foot and an open end.

There is something to be said for finally doing / attempting a repair and saying to my self "Oh f$%^, that is what they were talking about!"