WMO and short distance drives...?

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Hey guys...

What is your take on short distance drives and wmo blends? My trip to work is very short and I do plan on running a twin tank system, however, I still want to blend some wmo in my main tank as well just to help decrease my dependency on d2...

My truck gets up to full operating temp atleast once a week but the majority of the time, it doesn't as my drive to work is only a mile.

Opinions? Experiences?

Thanks

 

[Blind Driver2]

Why bother with WMO if work is a mile away?

A bicycle is a better idea

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I'm too lazy for that noise... lol

The truck is my dd.. it gets driven on vacations, etc... and if we go into town, its a 30 minute drive...

My trip to work is short... but everything else is a different story... plus wmo is fun.

 

[The FNG]

From my experiences, I would not recommend it.

 

[Josh Carmack]

12 miles one way to get to work or town, I feel it's fine, but with these colder temps I find I am dumping more WMO in my diesel tank than I want. In the summer I ran oil in both tanks. I am working on a 100Gal bed tank right now. In your one mile driving you wil circulate much more oil into the diesel tanks and in my opinion you would be better suited to blending to a mix that reacts fairly the same as pump d2 does. I would go for a 80 20 mix with RUG and see how it takes to starting cold on that. at one mile you'll not even have enough time to purge the filter and lines of one fuel before you switch back to the other for shutdown.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Its not worth the effort. You will end up with gummed up injectors or pump with even the slightest imperfection in fuel. When the engine is up to temp there is some forgiveness with what you can put through it, but a cold engine is asking for trouble.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I wont be switching tanks on my drive to work that's for sure...

What I'm wanting is to run a light blend in the main tank.. such as 20% w80 - 80% #2... I would only switch tanks on longer trips.

As of right now, I wanted to give our new blend a try and I'm running 27% w80 to 73% d2... not even a haze and starts as if running pump diesel...

Should I go back to straight #2 in the main tank considering my typical drive or would such a light amount really matter?

Thanks for all the input guys

 

[FarmerFrank]

I too have your troubles, im 1 mile from work and 15 from the Farm, so i drive to work, home, then 30 miles round trip. with the temps in the teens i have been running my "clean" tank which is roughly 20% oil to and from work and as soon as i leave to go to the farm i flip to my oil tank (70% oil). i try my damndest to remember to flip back to my "clean" tank about 3 miles from home or she is a real bear to start the next day. i'd like to install a fuel heat exchanger and plumb my block heater into it just to see if it can keep the w70 warm enough to fire in the cold

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Ive got a 30 plate heat exchanger I picked up from dudadiesel that I need to get installed... And I would like to improve my block heater.. go with one that will get the truck up to the 150-160 range and circulate coolant as my plate heater will be plumbed inline with my heater core.

So you run 20% oil year round in your clean tank?

 

[FarmerFrank]

Like i said, roughly. After i got hooked on WMO its hard to stand the tought of running clean diesel in it. i put 5 gallons of my 70/30 winter mix in and top it off with 15 gallons of fresh fuel. I almost never run my diesel tank from late spring to mid fall unless the truck is loaded around 15k gross and thats only when i know a hill is comming up and want a couple extra HP for the climb. During the warm weather it doesnt have much trouble starting on w80 and sometimes w90 mixes

 

[Brad S.]

I would say cold and wmo don't mix real well.
Like other have said if you can heat it before starting might help.
Also run a higher mix of some kind of fuel treatment/ cleaner.

 

[jordanjohngse]

im in the same boat acidburn. im military and i live 5 miles(5-10 minutes) my IDI hates the cold starts, no porblem starting just the first 5 minutes i can tell that engine block is cold, to save my interiors from getting damage and hurting the old girl, i dip/smoke, so i found alt. route that adds 7-10 miles depending on my lefts and right turns and since then she restore i guess one could say back to normal, my truck atleast gets around 20/20+ mpg easily so i dont mind taking a extra trip i run kleen diesel and that helps alot, if nothing else buy a cheap car, i might recommisioned my yj flatbeded bogger but dont know yet

 

[Blind Driver2]

I've had no problems with WMO. I doubt if your engine will notice a 50/50 mix.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Ok... so going back with either straight d2 in the stock tank or only a tiny amount (10% or less) of w80..

After driving through most of this tank, I noticed I had increasing idle hazing... At first it was nil... now its very noticeable. Most of this tank was not short trips but there were some very short start and stop trips on it.

Tonight, I drove into town (20 miles) and I noticed a power drop, EGTs came up, and a dramatic increase in smoke... Even running 55-60mph, the smoke was noticeable in my side mirror and my idle speed seemed a bit lower then normal. (boost was running 15-19psi with steady throttle)

Once I got into town, I was sitting just over 1/4 tank... topped off with 15 gallons of d2 and drove the **** out of it on the way back home. Still smoking a good bit but it seems to be clearing up.

On that note, I ordered my 2nd fuel cell tonight along with the fittings to finally plumb in my 20 plate heat exchanger.

I know for a fact that the w80 was the cause of the issues as I had just had the pump tested/calibrated and had the injectors cleaned and pop tested about a month prior and everything got a clean bill of health at that time. Up until now, no issues on d2.

Now.. I havnt tested fuel pressure as I still have the old diaphragm lift pump... (have a piston style lift pump sitting on the work bench ready to install).. but I'm not sure how a weak lift pump or clogged filter would cause a grey/black smoke issue...

I'm curious if it would run it once I get the PHE installed along with the new lift pump...

 

[Josh Carmack]

Air/vacuum intrusion can cause all sorts of issues, injectors won't pop correctly, pump erratic pressure and duration output etc etc. a FPHE may be the ideal ticket.