Wiring hell....

[Goofyexponent]

There isn't too much I can't figgure out wiring wise....but I am COMPLETELY stumped as to this.

First off, my test light is in the Kenworth at work...so I am working with a multi meter...requires a bit of creative body english to make both connectors make contact, but it works lol.


Now, the PO repaired EVERYTHING with 14G white wire...and I do mean EVERYTHING.
I need trailer park lights. I have at the trailer connector (7 pin of course)...brake lights, both signal lights, the trailer brake wire is live and working properly.....I jsut can't get park lights!!

I found out that my trailer connector isn't wired into the back of the truck correctly. SO after removing and repairing the suitcase connectors that WERE on there I STILL can't get trailer park lights.

I found a white wire (of course) that runs from the park light pin up under the hood and then I lose it in about 12 white wires. This HAS to be the park lights.

Another bit of info, is I can get about .8 volts at the park light pin in the connector...and that's it!

Bottom line is, I have everything else working..the fuse is good, the relay is clicking on, but no park lamps!!

 

[timothyr1014]

If you are in a pinch you can tap off of the taillamp itself, but if your gonna run a bunch of markers I would just re-run from the relay (and use a brown wire for simplicity ).

I have seen several trailer harnesses that leak voltage (which is technically a short) between pins...if you are getting .8 when other wires are running hot I wouldnt be too concerned, but if that .8 is showing with no other circuit hot you will probably want to track it down....its probably an issue with the white wire (sorry, couldnt resist)

 

[Goofyexponent]

its probably an issue with the white wire (sorry, couldnt resist)

With this truck......it's ALWAYS an issue with the white wire! lol.

I may just go ahead and do that. I already checked for 12 volts at the trailer relay and I am getting power out of there, so it wouldn't be a big deal to re-tap into that relay and be done with it.

Wire it like a big rig...black for tail, red for signal and brake and white for ground!

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Do it like it should have been done to begin with.

Run a 30-amp-fused 10-AWG wire from HOT to a big toggle-switch in the dash, then back to the trailer-connector.

No relays to mess with.

Only a very few connections.

Trailer-lights will be completely independent of the factory wiring.

I can't count the times I have been called upon to by-pass all that factory "tow package" junk for electrically challenged people.