wiring diagram for firewall plug 90 f250

[89dieselbko]

OK so this past weekend i got my 7.3 in place in my bronco. got it all connected, and got the trans and transfer case installed (thanks again for the bolt sizing help ) and now for the hard part.
I have been all over the net and cant find a wiring diagram for the circular plug in the firewall. i compared the wiring from the F250 bay harness and it **appears** that all the wires in all the ports match the plug in the bronco, but i know there has to be a few extra wires in there somewhere, for the glow plugs and FSS. I have the diagrams for both of those i found here on the site. I ran out of time to get my front clip back on, so i haven't got a chance to look, but do the glow plug wires and the FSS to ignition switch perhaps not run through the firewall plug? Maybe go in a separate place. Trying to get as much information as i can before i continue tackling it this weekend, any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Agnem]

Been there. Done that. Suffered under Pontious Pilot for you....

You must be registered for see images

I did not bother trying to find wires for a diesel when I did my 6.9 install. I just made up my own. I found tapping into the wires going to the instrument cluster to be the biggest difficulty.

 

[89dieselbko]

i read your build several times, as well as the *legal* struggles. I didnt see the wiring pics before, but thanks a bunch! print those out and map out where i stand. Im doing an all new *cluster* 1/4 inch plywood with all new gauges at a later date i will be doing it proper, just want to get it on the road, 5 weeks of only weekends working on it and got the D50 up front in place of my 44, and the 10.25 in the rear, altered fuel sending unit, redid all lines, all new brake lines... basically all the easy stuff, wiring is next, and i suck at it. Thanks for the wiring, ill have to buy a cheap camera to get some pics!

 

[riotwarrior]

Sounds to me like your farther along in your build than me in mine. Glad it's all coming together and yes Mel was a huge help in my choice to build my diesel Bronco.

However my build is a ground up one, bare sand blasted frame, all redone suspension etc...well I have a sandblasted/primed frame....and lots of parts...and still a gasser Bronco...*****..

Good luck on your project sounds to me like you have it well under control. That wiring will come together just take it slow and easy.

 

[89dieselbko]

that was my plan, full restobuild.... needless to say i found a touch of frame rot, its still solid, but heavily pitted... so my plan is to get it back on the road *i figured 3 months, im driving a darn buick now which is rough considering the 240k miles i have put on it.... so i need it back. Im going to buy a southern frame in a few years and swap over to it, but not to worried right now. I also have a good bit of rot to replace, mainly floor boards and rear sill.

I really wish i was doing a full frame off, for now im just happy i got my axles looking pretty.
Only thing i wish now after all this work was to have gotten ahold of a 93-94 turbo model... but i can always rebuild my motor and add a banks sidewinder if i have funds lying around in a year or 2.

 

[Agnem]

I was curious how much of a pain was the D50 swap?

 

[89dieselbko]

Well at first it was a complete pain in the ****... i was going to change the entire cross member out, but the factory rivets sucked and i dont have a torch set.... so i ended up drilling 4 1/2in width holes in my original X member. The D50 mounts to Xmember on the flat section under motor, as the D44 mounts them on the passenger side on the upward angled piece. took 4 bits to drill the holes out, and was a real pain to get them started. All in all the *hardest* part was notching the front of my frame to match the F250 to swap to the leaf springs. Again i dont have torches, and took 4 or 5 cutoff disks per side... i buy harbor freight cut offs and they dont last at all.

I didnt want to notch the frame, but the D50 *casing* the leafs sit on was way to thick to transfer my coils and rad arm mount from.

So basically to actually answer your question and get off of this tangent i started.... Me (25, disabled Air Force medical retiree) and my 19 year old half-brother (fat lazy kid) spent an entire day saturday to do it, took the better part of 30 beers, a few broken knuckles, several drill bits, many cut off disks. Id say its a 6/10 for pain in the ****, but really was rather easy. And well worth it i think, i was going to do the D44 the BKO had with the chevy outers for the 8 lug... but figured it was better this way, should be worth it!

I can get some pics this weekend of how it all came out, just have to remember to stop at walmart and get a cheapy digital camera. Im not a metal worker by any means, i have to do most of my work sitting down so its a little ugly, but all structurally sound. My only worry is the engine mounts, one bolt on driver side sits over the hole for the old oil filter on the 302 gasser. Other 3 i got snug and i think it will be OK. Thats why i was going to do the whole cross member.

EDIT:::: if you have proper tools, i bet you could get it all set up in 5-6 hours. instead of 6am to finishing around 9pm like i did

 

[89dieselbko]

OK i just found a torch set, complete on CL for 75 bucks, so this weekend i will be taking the 50 back out... and changing the engine cross member. Ill feel better knowing i didnt have to botch one of the motor mount plates bolts, and will look cleaner then having to weld it up at a later date.