Which kind of hub seal

Vern

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What kind of hub seal do I have here on the ford 10.25" axle, anyone know? I understand there's two kinds. I smell gear oil just looking at the picture.
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franklin2

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Doesn't matter what you have now, if you have a full float HD rear axle you need the 370047A axle seal. It's $30 at Autozone, but it works well, you actually put a little rtv on the id and the OD if you like, the id does not spin on the housing like the original seal, this seal has it's own new surface that the seal inside this seal spins on. Sort of like a repair type seal.
 

Vern

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Not the skf 'scottseal'? These probably work the same way I gather.
 

Vern

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So I remove both old seals and replace with the one National and it won't leak. But how do I get 50-60 ft.lbs on the nut without the socket?
 

Vern

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o.k. took your advice. Thanks. I've got the national part here ready to install. hoped it would seal up after a proper torque of the spare hub two-part seal but not looking like it. It's funny from what I've read for the HD to have 2.5" brakes.

I wonder if it will be o.k. to top up the dif with 85-110 gear oil since it's what I've got the about the right amount of on hand.
 

franklin2

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If it's still leaking I would fix it first. No use ruining another set of brake shoes. I guess you know once you get oil on the shoes they are toast. No amount of brake cleaner will get them clean enough to work without grabbing. But if you are like me, you will have to try it and see, no harm done.

Is your original seal surface rough and tore up on the axle housing? If it is, did you put some silicone sealer in that area before you installed the new two-part seal? If you do that, and the od of the new seal goes in good, there is really no way that new seal can leak.
 

Vern

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I got the 370047a national. If i understand correctly, there is no second part needed and i mean the part that slides onto the spindle (pictured) correct?
 

franklin2

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It looks like either someone had a two part on it before and that inner part is still on your housing, or the new two part you installed came apart and that is the inner guts in the picture. If you tried to put your new two part seal onto that part on the picture, I hope it didn't ruin the new seal.

This is what the area in the picture above should look like before you install the new seal.

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franklin2

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The above picture is the surface that the "normal" one piece seal rubbed on. As you can see it can start to get a little rough. With the new two part seal, you actually put a little rtv in the area with that dark line on it, and actually glue the new two part seal in place. The new two part seal no longer spins on the surface in the picture above, it has it's own nice new smooth surface inside the new two part seal. Stick several fingers inside the new two part seal and you will see you can turn the ID of the new two part seal.
 

Vern

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Oh, thanks guys. What a lesson! I found another way to ruin it, Franklin! first tho, I had tried to turn it that way by hand but couldn't. I just figured it was tight. This unit looked liked it had kicked around a warehouse and was in and out of its box a bit, with odd smears of installation grease hear and there.
And, yes pictured is just the outer part of the two part seal I realized. Thanks for the picture.
Anyhow, I drove it in without the inner bearing! Despite warnings.
Was a frantic time, I guess. I do remember things but I was running up against the darkness.
Drove it back out with a long 3/8" extension and beding the inner flange. But, reinstalled properly and put it on the spindle only to find it was binding. Pulled hub back off, tried to straighten the metal, and reinstalled. Results were much better. But it still prolly wont last that long with such abuse. Will see.

Don't do as I did, people!!
 

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