What SM clutch kit should I get

[texcl]

I'm going to buy a single mass flywheel clutch kit to replace my original dual mass flywheel on my 1993 NA 7.3 F-250 (which has like 240k on the original clutch and flywheel). What are some recommendations, not looking for anything fancy just something that will work as well as the original dual mass did, not too worrier about roll over noise ect...

 

[junk]

I like the LUK clutch kits. The master kit with flywheel/pressure plate/clutch disk and hardware is like 385 currently on rock auto, but you can buy the flywheel kit and then pressure plate/clutch disk kits cheaper separately. And those kits include all the hardware that the master kit does.

-Jeremy

 

[direwulf23]

I like the Luk master kit I got. Got it on Parts Geeks a bit cheaper.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

 

[crash-harris]

I went with a Duralast kit from Autozone (IIRC it's made by Luk). They also have the different kits for N/A and turbo setups. If you have the cash, South Bend would be the way to go.

 

[larson]

What ever you do please don't buy the power torque Smf/clutch kit from orileys. I am running that clutch and it operates very well but the tranny growling is very rediculous. If I had it to do over again I would spend the money and replace the dmf and clutch. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

LUK for sure. Buy the flywheel and clutch kit separately on rockauto and you'll save $50 or so rather then buying the master kit. Don't forget the 5% discount code.

As stated, all hardware will be included.

I would go on and replace the clutch fork as it is a wear item and it's cheap. Also not a bad idea to go on and do the rear main & wear sleeve for the crank while you are there.

I have the part numbers for the seal, wear sleeve, and sleeve driver if you need them.

 

[texcl]

Ok, thanks for the advice, I was leaning towards the LUK kit. I would appreciate the numbers for the rear seal parts. I have a local guy who will install the clutch for $400. I also have access to a transmission lift, how hard a job is it with a lift? I know the dm fly wheel is super heavy. My truck is a 4x4 too so a couple more things to replace. Seems like every repair on this truck is a pain, I replaced the left ball joint and u-joints, plus the tie rods a while back and man what a pain, took me 3 or 4 days had to cut a lot of parts off not because of rust, but it was like the parts had welded themselves on over the years. i pull my travel trailer with her about 3 hours round trip 8 or 9 times a year and haul garbage ect... she doesn't see too much heavy duty use anymore, would like to keep her up to ***** for a couple more years though.

 

[IDIoit]

i put a south bend clutch in mine.
came with everything needed.
pricey, but i love it.

i dont have a trans jack, me and another guy muscled it into place without the transfer bolted on.

i used 4 6" bolts with the heads cut off threaded into the trans adapter to get it halfassed into place, and a lill bit of wiggle and pushing seated it right into place.

IMO the hardest part is getting the clutch disk in the correct spot.
plastic alignment tools are complete crap.

 

[crash-harris]

If you are physically able to get under the truck and have some smooth concrete or pavement to do the work on, is a pretty easy job. For 4x4, just remove the t-case after the driveshafts. I used a harbor freight transmission jack (little red scissor jack) and it took me a total of 6 hours taking it easy. I didn't replace my rear main though. Hardest part is getting the slave cylinder on and off (lots of good tips and tricks for that have been posted previously) and getting everything lined back up and bolted together. And holding the SMF up while trying to get it clocked correctly and get bolts started.

 

[texcl]

When I do the parts number look up it only gives the option for factory turbos and after market turbo models, no naturally aspirated models. Do I use the after market turbo version?

 

[IDIoit]

im using a turbo app on my N/A block, but it does have a turbo on it lol

 

[mbarry98]

Good question I'm doing a C6 ZF swap and you can get a Na kit, a factory turbo kit, and after market turbo kit. So what is the difference is it in the clutch itself?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

It's pretty simple. A couple guys with the right tools can handle it in a few hours. Keep the transfer case on the trans just be warned, it's awkward and heavy.

Part numbers... ALL PART NUMBERS ARE FOR FACTORY NON-TURBO APPLICATION. FACTORY TURBO USES A DIFFERENT FLYWHEEL.

Wear sleeve - 16256
Sleeve driver - 16301
Seal kit - BS40697

All felpro.

The clutch and flywheel...

Clutch kit - 07131
Flywheel - LFW127
Clutch Fork - ZA124

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

As far as clutch difference, I'd say it's the friction material used. The flywheels are different between turbo and NA applications as they are balanced differently. ONLY use an NA flywheel for NA rotating assemblies. Factory turbo trucks, use a turbo specific flywheel.

 

[texcl]

it says on the site that if I use LUK clutch kit 07131, I have to.... "Replace master and slave cylinders with LMC176 and LSC158." Is this true?