What fluids etc...?

[gatorman21218]

Ok ive searched the forum but havent really found any thing that answers my question b/c the search function doesnt like all the keywords when i search

So Im thinking of doing an overhaul of my underbody with ujoints and diff fluids and brakes etc. I have some questions as to what fluids I should use

1. What do i use for my ZF? Ive heard atf but which kind? What do i put in the transfer case?

2. What weight gear oil do I put in my diffs? also how do I know if I have limited slip or not? same stuff front and back? i know that ls needs an additive where should i get that?

3. where is the best place to get u joints? ive read that napa is not the best but i dont want to spend outrageous sums of money. Should i get sealed joints or greaseable?

4. what grease should i be using? Reg old black or red or what?

5. What brake fluid should i use?

Sorry for so many questions but i want to do it right and since yall know best...

 

[gatorman21218]

Anybody out there?

 

[Agnem]

You can use any Mercon fluid in your ZF and transfer case. If you have a solid mass flywheel you can opt for the thicker streight 30wt. motor oil (non-detergent) for noise dampening, but if you don't have the SMF stick to the ATF. U-Joints... pretty much everybody has the same made in china crap anymore. I've used NAPA, Autozone, Advance, etc... they are all a far cry from the Spicer made in USA stuff we used to be able to get. I'd get the zerk equipped ones, and pump whatever your using in your wheel bearings into them. Rear axle... takes 80-90Wt. hypoid gear oil. The real stinky stuff. Same as what a T-19 uses if you had one of those. Brake fluid... any Dot 3 is what Ford designed them for.

 

[hesutton]

1. Mercon ATF in the ZF-5 and in the T-case.

2. The axle code on the door jam should tell you if the rear is an open of a LS diff. 75W-90 or 80W-90 gear oil for the front and rear axles. If you do have a LS (the FAQ section has all the codes) use some Motorcraft Friction Modifier or something similar.

3. Try and get spicer u-joints with the grease zerk if you can. When putting them in, be sure to position the U-joint where the zerk is being "compressed" by the roation of the shaft, not "expanded" if that makes since.

4. I just use waterproof greese, nothing special, and hit all the zerks on the truck when I change the oil.

5. I prefer DOT-4 as it is less hydophillic (less water absorbtion). But, DOT-3 is fine as well.

Heath

 

[gatorman21218]

Thanks guys I will try to find the spicer stuff. Im not sure if mine are bad but i cant pump grease into em and taking out the zirk fitting is really difficult so I might as well replace them if im going to spend the time messing with the fitting. Not sure if I will feel the same way when I get a price quote but... Heres a thought what if i just take them out and clean them up? how can i tell if there warn or not?

Not sure what you mean Heath. If the zirk is being compressed on the top half wouldnt it be expanded on the bottom half as the axle spins?

 

[FX4 Level2]

id say dex merc in the tranny and t case

you cant go wrong with dot 3

and i like to use lucas red and tacky in the u joints! really helps with the salt of winter and water crossings