Water Pump Time

[FORDF250HDXLT]

As for the E-fan the one Im looking at flows 2,500cfm without a shroud. I will be reusing the factory one because with an E-fan it wont be a hassle like with the stock clutch fan, and with the shroud it should be fine. I dont see the stocker flowing any more than 2,500 at idle (or at a stop), which is really the only time a fans nessessary. The performance shop Id be getting it from Ive known the owner for years. He said he had the exact same fan with the factory shroud on a highly modded big block gasser complete with all accessories including A/C, and it ran cool as a cucumber. Its a $70 fan and $40 for the therm. And I wont ever have to mess with that darned clutch nut again.

try these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-96-97-98...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2c61168ad4

guide:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17484

but with just a little mod/fab work,you can ditch the stock shroud and mount them directly to the rad.this is how i did it.even just enough room for the larger motor,or install them upside down for increased room.
once you grind the shroud a little bit flatter (i think it was just a bit off he top- notice my rough grinding work/gaps? lol.) there is just one tab that is not a direct bolt on deal.it's the upper pass side.easy solution posted in pic.adjust this,so fan has plenty of clearance from the rad,and your ready to wire 'em up with your favorite controller or relays.
start to finish 2 hours max.difficulty rating 2 out of 10 (10 being the hardest.)

caution;
under almost all conditions these fans are overkill.
variable rate controller,or dropping resister/two devoted relays/switches recommended for reduced fan speed.

 

[RANOVRU]

Well I finally got the wrench I needed Man is this thing huge.

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The nut came right off without any extension and not but maybe half of what I could have put into it. Course it did get about a day and a half to soak in PB Blaster while I was searching for a wrench so Im sure that helped.


Ill take some pics in a bit of my E-fan when I get it mounted up just for anyone else interested in switching over.


Also, I noticed the vaccuum pump had a tiny bit of antifreeze on top of it from where the water pump originally puked, so I turned the pulley over a couple times and a little spit out of the holes in the top. Is this fatal to the pump?? Please dont tell me I need to replace another thing. What exactly does the VP do?? Is it just like vaccuum lines on a gasser???

 

[johneich]

What exactly does the VP do?? Is it just like vaccuum lines on a gasser???

Right, kinda, our trucks do not make vacuum so they need the VP to make vacuum to run things, sorry I went for the short answer, ask if you need more.

 

[hesutton]

Now i was told antiseeze and just snug it up good. Wich made sence to me, i mean it's reverse thread so it wont come loose.. Wich is it, i dont wanna have to cut it off next time.

Blue loctite on the fan nut threads. Never use the anti sieze.

I will have to disagree a bit Gary. I've always put antisieze on the threads of the water pump/fan clutch. You can get some serious torque out of a 1 and 7/8 wrench. And, like stated, the rotation of the engine is constantly trying to tighten down the fan clutch threads. I've never lost a fan, and I've never had a stuck fan either. Not saying loctite is wrong, but, I really prefer antisieze to ensure that I will be able to get that fan off without damaging stuff. But, I put antisieze on almost everything!

Heath

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i had heard that it is not the running of the engine that will loosen the fan nut but since these engines have such high compresstion, once you shut the engine off the engine stops rotating so fast that is can loosen the fan nut.

 

[typ4]

the antifreeze is just coming out the vent holes in the vac pump, no harm.
I also do not loctite the fan hub.Neverseez and tighten it up good.

 

[RANOVRU]

Well lucky for me I dont have to worry about that retarded fan nut anymore.


Ill probably catch hell for my "shroud" but it was made from spare stock laying around. If I feel in any way this is not adequate for keeping temp under control once I get it up and running then Ill just go back to the drawing board. The hole for the fan still needs to be cut, holes for the bottom cross braces need to be drilled as well as the fan supports, and everything needs to be bolted up.

Nothing fancy. Any questions feel free to ask...

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Tommorrow Ill button that up, bolt the new water pump on, and wire the thermostat.

 

[hesutton]

i had heard that it is not the running of the engine that will loosen the fan nut but since these engines have such high compresstion, once you shut the engine off the engine stops rotating so fast that is can loosen the fan nut.

The fan (if the clutch is working properly) will not stop suddenly when the engine is shut down. It will continue to rotate for a bit. A locked fan clutch will stop suddenly and may be a problem.

Heath

 

[itsacrazyasian]

Well lucky for me I dont have to worry about that retarded fan nut anymore.


Ill probably catch hell for my "shroud" but it was made from spare stock laying around. If I feel in any way this is not adequate for keeping temp under control once I get it up and running then Ill just go back to the drawing board. The hole for the fan still needs to be cut, holes for the bottom cross braces need to be drilled as well as the fan supports, and everything needs to be bolted up.

Nothing fancy. Any questions feel free to ask...

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Tommorrow Ill button that up, bolt the new water pump on, and wire the thermostat.

You need to add flaps to that. Basically going down the road, all the air won't channel through the center of the radiator.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

RANOVRU,
that's likely to work wonderful for you this time of year in Virginia,but i foresee it not working out too well come April/May.as you say though,it's no problem going back to the drawing board.it's a pretty dang fun mod to do anyway.

 

[RANOVRU]

You need to add flaps to that. Basically going down the road, all the air won't channel through the center of the radiator.

We'll see. Thanks for the advice. Its super easy to take off so like I said if its not adequate Ill modify.

 

[RANOVRU]

RANOVRU,
that's likely to work wonderful for you this time of year in Virginia,but i foresee it not working out too well come April/May.as you say though,it's no problem going back to the drawing board.it's a pretty dang fun mod to do anyway.

Thanks! Yeah we'll see.

Once I can measure how much room I have left when I get it back in Ill have a beeter idea of what I have to work with as far as "flapps", or extending the fan back a little.

 

[RANOVRU]

New pump finally on...

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Radiator all buttoned up ready to go back in...

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Now Ill start wiring this up...

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Then drop the radiator back in and hook up lines. Still need to pull the plug out of the new pump and put the fitting on for the heater hose. And then tommorrow hopefully I can fill her up and get her running again.

 

[RANOVRU]

Anyone know if the 15A power point on the inside fuse box is ignition activated? Dont have a test light and I need an ignition activated power source.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

No its hot at all times. I tapped for power off a 15amp circuit in the underhood panel for my hot ignition power. I'll find out what fuse it is after dinner.