Do you know how many miles you ran the water injection before taking the heads off?
Water-**** Injection in a 6.9l idi
- Thread starter Olb Blue Beast
- Start date
Do you know how many miles you ran the water injection before taking the heads off?
not many at all. the kit was new to me then, maybe 1k miles? ICBW but I don't think it takes all that long to get her a good steam bath. I'm sure alot has to do with how much and how often you are injecting the H20
IMO what you are paying for in the Snow Performance kit is the controller (and I"m sure you are paying for name too) To me it's worth having the more expensive kit option due to that controller. It's nice being able to have total control and flexibility of "when" and "how much" I want injected via use of that controller. As for injector size, I have the smaller of the 2 injectors that comes with the kit installed in my pickup. IIRC it's a 375ml per hour nozzle.
Somewhere on here a few days ago i saw some thread about a low budget Water **** idea, of basically revving up the engine and using a spray bottle to inject a little fluid thru the air intake. Ocnorb did a neat video on here a while back with his Water **** setup, and on his windshield he video'd the spray pattern and amount of the various injector nozzles. The mist from these "kits" is MUCH less and finer than what you could achieve with a spray bottle. If it were me, I'd shy away from the spray bottle method for fear of hydrolock. That spray bottle is going to put out more fluid and not as well atomized than a high pressure injector.
That thread was mine, (kinda why I chimed in here), I know with a spray bottle its not very exact, thats why I only do about 3-4 sprays, spaced apart to give the engine a chance burn it, and then let run for a few minutes after.
But thanks for the info on your setup, I'm kinda surprised it happens that fast, being this stuff is "baked" on carbon, and other stuff in wmo.
That thread was mine, (kinda why I chimed in here), I know with a spray bottle its not very exact, thats why I only do about 3-4 sprays, spaced apart to give the engine a chance burn it, and then let run for a few minutes after.
But thanks for the info on your setup, I'm kinda surprised it happens that fast, being this stuff is "baked" on carbon, and other stuff in wmo.
Dsl_Dog_Treat
I lost my face to the jaws of a poodle
Care to share your parts list from coolingmist?
sle2115
NRA LIFE MEMBER
I'm sure some of you have seen what cold water can do for a gasser too. I'd say the burnt on sludge would come off just the same, the water causes it to fracture and break loose, I've seen cars given a drink of nice ice water leave a pile of carbon on the ground at the tailpipe that would darn near fill a 3 pound coffee can!
That would be one heckuva a site to see!
The Audi I use to have, it was recommended to have it suck up a little seafoam thru the intake to clean things out. Mind you this car was in immaculate condition. I thought what the heck, I'll give it a whirl. After all the chugging and smoking subsided, I had a big old carbon pile on my garage floor at the tail pipe. I swear that car gained 25hp after that single "cleaning"
braboy
Full Access Member
1 pump 1 metal checkvalve 15'plastic hose 1 90degree injector holder 1 injector you pick the size 1 boost switch 1 metal tee 12"of vacuum hose 1 10' 16gauge red wire 1 fuse holder + fuse alll fittings pump is 150psi +nuts bolts zip ties and that stuff. Got mine set up to kick on at 4 lbs of boost, and stays on until it drops below that. With a four gallon an hour nozel you can see the temp stop until you push the pedel further. It def helps in pulling a 12,000 plus camper. And I just use water.
It clears up your black smoke too when you jump on the fuel. Sorry it took so long, missed the question. Just so you know the deisel kit from cooling mist has a 250 psi pump and will cost you another 100 to 150 bucks.
It clears up your black smoke too when you jump on the fuel. Sorry it took so long, missed the question. Just so you know the deisel kit from cooling mist has a 250 psi pump and will cost you another 100 to 150 bucks.
braboy
Full Access Member
1 pump 1 metal checkvalve 15'plastic hose 1 90degree injector holder 1 injector you pick the size 1 boost switch 1 metal tee 12"of vacuum hose 1 10' 16gauge red wire 1 fuse holder + fuse alll fittings pump is 150psi +nuts bolts zip ties and that stuff. Got mine set up to kick on at 4 lbs of boost, and stays on until it drops below that. With a four gallon an hour nozel you can see the temp stop until you push the pedel further. It def helps in pulling a 12,000 plus camper. And I just use water.
It clears up your black smoke too when you jump on the fuel. Sorry it took so long, missed the question. Just so you know the deisel kit from cooling mist has a 250 psi pump and will cost you another 100 to 150 bucks.
It clears up your black smoke too when you jump on the fuel. Sorry it took so long, missed the question. Just so you know the deisel kit from cooling mist has a 250 psi pump and will cost you another 100 to 150 bucks.
There is actually a lot of empiricle knowledge around here with regard to water/**** injection. We were big on it in the early 2000's, then Argve blew up the Enterprise running it, and interest "cooled off" if you'll pardon the pun. His self made system was very effective, and the only thing wrong with it, was his thinking was more is better, and eventually he cracked all his pistons by cooling too much. An effective system can be made with a typical RV water pump and other common hardware store items. The real key is the shut off solenoid, and the misting nozzle. Finding the correct atomization and flow rate for a given RPM is the main variable, and the thing most of the kits will take out of the guesswork. You do not need a lot of pump PSI to get good atomization, but you do need good atomization, and you need it delivered where it will be suspended in the air flow the best. Lots of old threads on this topic, where the recipie has been pretty well hashed out. Dig em' up!
ocnorb
IDIT
I think the big danger is peak cylinder pressures go way up as you add more ****. Stay conservative and stud your motor before pushing it hard is my .02 cents.
My system works great and the EGTs all but stop climbing when it kicks in. Its a shame I didn't get the studs done before I accidentally pushed 20+psi on a cold day and lifted the heads.
My system works great and the EGTs all but stop climbing when it kicks in. Its a shame I didn't get the studs done before I accidentally pushed 20+psi on a cold day and lifted the heads.
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
I've been keeping an eye on this, think I'm ordering a kit for my 250 next paycheck...
braboy
Full Access Member
y not i pull 12000 lb most of the time and it just gets me down the cooler+faster
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
have the direct link? i don't see a kit less than $250.
ocnorb
IDIT
This is the kit I am running: http://ktperformance.net/i-6683801-coolingmist-stage-i-diesel.html
Its a bit over $250. ($284)
They were good to work with- I called and asked for a smaller nozzle size than what it comes with standard; they swapped it out with no charges or problems.
Its a bit over $250. ($284)
They were good to work with- I called and asked for a smaller nozzle size than what it comes with standard; they swapped it out with no charges or problems.
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