Water Injection Really?

[finitetime]

Emailed Snow Performance. Asked about how to use there system on a 7.3 naturally aspirated truck. Got this response.

Unfortunately all of our diesel kits need to reference boost pressure in order to modulate injection. If you had a turbo kit on it we would be able to install one of our kits as well.



Sincerely,

Josh

 

[BioFarmer93]

Wow, both of those nozzels seem to really throw out a lot of water... I'm running Three nozzels of a much smaller orifice size and only putting out about half of what was showing for either of those things. I'm no engine scientist/technician, but my gut feeling is that's probably a little too much spray for a N/A. I have a N/A that really (by trial and error) likes the amount that I'm spraying now. If you look at my video though you can see that mine is MUCH more finely atomized though, possibly in part because my system uses 10 more psi, but I think it's primarily because the nozzel's orifices are smaller. Best of luck and keep experimenting- currently I'm learning how to use pyrolysis to fractionate diesel fuel from waste plastic and WMO, only a tiny bit more difficult than filtering and blending WMO and a hell of a lot easier than making biodiesel Have fun..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9n7NI0ivOU

 

[finitetime]

bio farmer, what switches your system on? I have a n/a engine and the kits I have found only work on boost. I agree about the amount of water also what type of nozzles and sizes do you use?

 

[Black dawg]

Wow, both of those nozzels seem to really throw out a lot of water... I'm running Three nozzels of a much smaller orifice size and only putting out about half of what was showing for either of those things. I'm no engine scientist/technician, but my gut feeling is that's probably a little too much spray for a N/A. I have a N/A that really (by trial and error) likes the amount that I'm spraying now. If you look at my video though you can see that mine is MUCH more finely atomized though, possibly in part because my system uses 10 more psi, but I think it's primarily because the nozzel's orifices are smaller. Best of luck and keep experimenting- currently I'm learning how to use pyrolysis to fractionate diesel fuel from waste plastic and WMO, only a tiny bit more difficult than filtering and blending WMO and a hell of a lot easier than making biodiesel Have fun..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9n7NI0ivOU

Do you have a good link for this "Pyrolysis"? thank you

 

[Black dawg]

Wow, both of those nozzels seem to really throw out a lot of water... I'm running Three nozzels of a much smaller orifice size and only putting out about half of what was showing for either of those things. I'm no engine scientist/technician, but my gut feeling is that's probably a little too much spray for a N/A. I have a N/A that really (by trial and error) likes the amount that I'm spraying now. If you look at my video though you can see that mine is MUCH more finely atomized though, possibly in part because my system uses 10 more psi, but I think it's primarily because the nozzel's orifices are smaller. Best of luck and keep experimenting- currently I'm learning how to use pyrolysis to fractionate diesel fuel from waste plastic and WMO, only a tiny bit more difficult than filtering and blending WMO and a hell of a lot easier than making biodiesel Have fun..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9n7NI0ivOU

Do you have a good link for this "Pyrolysis"? thank you

 

[BioFarmer93]

bio farmer, what switches your system on? I have a n/a engine and the kits I have found only work on boost. I agree about the amount of water also what type of nozzles and sizes do you use?

Josh,
I get my nozzels from these folks- http://www.cloudtops.com/fog_systems/fogging_system_parts.php

And the ones that I use are these- PN 00004 - BRASS FOG NOZZLE .015" STAINLESS STEEL ORIFICE 10/24 UNC - BEST AT 45-1200 PSI

My system is completely home built and very simple, made from 1/4" i.d. brass fittings & pipe from Home Depot for the nozzle manifold that's mounted on top of my air filter cover (stock type, no soup bowl). It's controlled by a toggle switch mounted on the shifter so I can trigger it on or off with one finger on the fly. The pump is mounted under my left foot so I can feel it cycle on and off while it maintains pressure on the line- very helpful for remembering that you're spraying. I rarely use it in city traffic & under 40mph unless I'm getting on it ******* an entrance ramp to the expressway or interstate.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Do you have a good link for this "Pyrolysis"? thank you

Yes, several...

http://www.oiltodiesel.com/forum/

http://www.energeticforum.com/renew...n-plastic-waste-into-diesel-fuel-cheaply.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbNou1lXBck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zFLQpgkFXnU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmvMO8OZJus&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BbKSSr9ypts&feature=related

Some of these are plastic to diesel, and some are WMO to diesel... They both work exactly the same. The article at the energetic forum is the one that I found to most informative, -only joined the oiltodiesel.com forum today (just found it)

 

[ocnorb]

Wow, both of those nozzels seem to really throw out a lot of water...

If you look at my video though you can see that mine is MUCH more finely atomized though, possibly in part because my system uses 10 more psi, but I think it's primarily because the nozzel's orifices are smaller.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9n7NI0ivOU

My pump is rated at 250 psi, but I have never measured it.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Long thread and I was trying to work from memory- I thought I had read that your pump was @ 60psi, sorry.. No wonder it looked like a fire hydrant blowing out of that nozzle! To address a concern you stated earlier- if you still have your intake screen in place, there's no way in hell that big ol' nozzle is going to get past it...

 

[ocnorb]

No worries on the intake screen, its long gone.

That CM5 is 5 gallons per hour; its the smallest nozzle CM sells. Its set to come on at 7 psi, which is pretty close to 2000 rpm under normal acceleration.

So far it works well. My pump is maxed out; previously I was always driving by EGTs when towing. Now I am hard pressed to get over 1050. (But I still can on a steep hill and 15psi.)

Gotta check out that plastic to diesel stuff! Thank for the links!!