W80: keeping it mixed

JPhauler87

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Do you guys have any experience with the 12 volt wrap fuel heaters? $27 on ebay. I was thinking I'd like to get something to use until the engine is up to temp. Also thinking about adding the coolant heat exchanger I have as well, though I kinda wonder if it really would raise the temp of the fuel that much more than it gets from running through a hot engine compartment and injection pump.
 

Josh Carmack

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Heard some good stuff, thats about as far as my knowledge goes. MB thought it was useful to add a heat exchanger to their cars stock, and they did that never intending on their cars to burn oil. If I understand correctly, the heat exchangers on the MB's stop transferring heat after the engine is up to operating temps. As I have experience changing a few fuel filters on the roadside now, I can say the fuel is uncomfortably warm after the car has been running for an hour or two. Like uncomfortable enough to play hot potato with the filter, or grab it with pliers.
 

JPhauler87

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For $27, I think I will probably do it before too long. My theory is that most of the coking happens when the engine and fuel are not up to temp yet, so getting the fuel hot on a cold engine will at least alleviate one of those.
 

JPhauler87

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Next question: what do you guys think about looping the return line from the IP back into the supply for the lift pump? Basically the same way we have our fuges plumbed. This way, warm fuel will quickly return to the heated filter and get warmer. Seems a lot of veg guys do this for the same reason.

Any drawbacks? No circulation in the tank? Did someone mention the fuge ran at a higher pressure with the valve wide open with looped return vs return to drum?
 

JPhauler87

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Changed my mind yet again and went with these:
www.fattywagons.com/fwproducts.htm

$30 shipped, will add a switch and relay. I like this plan best because it adds the heat right where it needs it most... I realized the filter heated fuel will still need to pass through cold pump and cold injector lines. This alleviates that problem and makes no need for the looped return, either. Unlike the veg guys, we aren't that concerned with thinning, it's the cold fuel in a cold cylinder that causes coking for us. Hoping adding the heat right before injection will help a lot in the cold. Veg guys seem to love them.
 

JPhauler87

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Heaters and switch installed. Wired to accessory power. Kind of annoying getting the routing such that they were 4" of contact on each line close to injector, but oh well.

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Josh Carmack

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The FNG nailed it, I have spray painted and taped so many cell phone chargers and crap. I really can't understand why the manufacturers don't consider the ramification of using an ultra bright led as the indicator.
 

The FNG

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I got a blue led in mine and it was so bright at night I couldn't see the windshield. Even during the day it's bright enough to bother me. Maybe I should switch to an amber...
 

JPhauler87

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So far, so good. Unless the car is warmed up, I let the heaters run for about 2 minutes before cranking. It stumbles for about 3 seconds then smooths right out. Leaves a little puff of white smoke as I take off but not bad. Fingers crossed heat/timing will keep me at this smoke level! For a while at least.

This batch is pretty thin which I'm guessing helps too. We have a shitload of stale gas and gasdiesel I have not been shy about using. Also have been adding 20oz of gray bottle power service with each fill up. $20 for 80oz, so $5 goes into what would be $80+ at the pump. Still not bad :)

Loving this thing. Even with 330k+, it truly is a pleasure to drive.
 

Josh Carmack

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I'm gonna be honest, once I sat behind the wheel of little blue and felt how good a 30 year old car drives, I'm flat out a Mercedes man from here out.
 

JPhauler87

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Week four of daily driving the wagon. Getting a nice puff of white smoke on startup. It appears to clear out when driving, but this week doing a couple trips at night on the highway I could see a decent haze in the headlights behind me, particularly on hills. A coworker followed me to lunch yesterday with the windows down and said it smelled pretty bad. I could see even in the daylight that it was hazing a bit and left a big plume as I pulled away from a stop light. I took a different way home and ripped it pretty good on the highway and found almost zero haze at idle once I parked in the driveway. Was it just the highway run that cleared it out? Is it possible my mixture, particularly the power service isn't homogenous?

Thinking about getting into veg with this thing. Single tank blend with thinning stuff the way I do now. At least tip the ratio of wvo/wmo to 50/50 or 70/30 in favor of veg to try to combat smell and eye-watering smoke.

Also, not getting a glow plug light anymore. Assuming glow plug controller? Haven't looked into it at all yet. Still starts OK under 50*F in the morning.
 

Josh Carmack

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It's been my experience the 603's do not like to start without preglow. Little blue will not do anything below 50 without some kind of help. The preglow is setup on these cars to lend them selves nicely to a manual setup. All glow plugs have their own individual wire going to the controller, and the controller have a 6GA wire coming directly from the battery source to it. I plan on replacing the controller in my car with a starter solenoid off of a ford truck, and a manual switch inside the cab. Wifey's little red is slow to start even with a hot engine without preglow D2 or oil. When the engine is hot it only glows 5 or 6 seconds, but if you turn it over before the light goes out it just cranks over til the light goes out anyway. If you wait on the light and then turn it over it fires instantly hot or cold. I'm fairly sure her injectors are fouled though because it has a terrible injector knock when running D2 and that did not surface til after running oil, and a significant power loss.

It's my policy to ignore smoke or haze seen in the headlights of cars behind you. I noticed ALL of my diesels did that even before any of them ever saw any waste oil. The truck does it bad when the accelerator is closed. In the beams behind me going down a hill it looks like the truck is spraying for mosquitoes, but it's invisible in the day time. In the daytime it sprays for mosquitoes in heavy throttle. The smoke is dark dark grey when on oil, and black and much worse when on D2. The cars haze at idle and quit from medium to heavy throttle, but smoke bad above 3000 RPM. Quite frankly though, smoke doesn't bother me, power output and running conditions do. I live in a poor rural area, and smoke coming from old diesels is a familiar sight.... LOL, I must admit I do like to roll coal in front of someone that is driving rudely or has cut me off. If I get the truck up in the higher RPMS it's smokes like a freight train. Kinda handy for the ******* that doesn't know what a safe following distance is. Maybe I'm rude, but it's effective, the lady that lives way down the road from me no longer tailgates me on the way to work. About two or three weeks in a row she would ride my ass on the way to town every day. One day I decided enough was enough, dropped down a couple gears and held it on the floor. Her car disappeared for several moments, I did it again the next day, and now she stays back several hundred feet. Where we all live is a river flood basin about 10 to 20 miles from town depending on how far down the highway you are. It's about 35 of us that all live down in the river basin, and there is only one way to get out and to town that doesn't add 30 miles to the trip. It's pretty regular 3 or 4 of us mage to be going to work at the same time.

I'm still on Diesel in everything due to a second major spill with the processor, and fear that a pissed neighbor has reported me to the state for storing over 1000 gals of oil on site. I only have 3 neighbors that are within 2 miles of my house in any direction. One of those neighbors reported another neighbor to the state for burning pesticide containers, and that set off a firestorm of drama that's still going. And somehow or another, someone placed the blame on ME for making the initial call to the state. Once it was all over with, 4 farmers got cited by the state, and they all think I am responsible, so here I sitting in my own little corner minding my own business worried that the state may come along and ask to see my property and find one hell of a mess inside my shop. My 50 to 60 gallons of spilled oil are all on concrete, but can you imagine how that would look in the event the state EPA ask to have a look around. Reworking everything, making it idiot proof, and much more automated. PS, I'm the idiot that needs everything to be idiot proof. Left the pump running all night one night to find that the return had vibrated loose from the drum and dumped the whole load into the shop floor. Than over filled the drum a few days ago dumping another 10 to 20 gallons out. Cost me 140 bucks to dispose of the dirt/oildry at the landfill not to mention the fact it was a clean batch, and instead of making me fuel it's now sitting in a landfill.

The new setup will be housed inside of a cut open 275 gallon tote to contain any future spills, and All my oil will now be housed inside of old 500 gal propane tanks so there will never be a danger of a soft sided tote or drum getting ripped open, and I can used air pressure to move everything around.
 

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