Video : How to check for air leaks in your fuel system - 6.9 & 7.3 IDI

riotwarrior

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First welcome to OB, as you most likely know the best place for info on the planet about IH/Ford IDI's bar none. To see a first post like yours is truly interesting....giving back before even asking anything Kudos....I'll watch the vid when wifey is in bed ;Poke

Do take some time introduce yourself and fill out your sig so we can see what you have!

Thanks for the vid, looking forward to viewing.

Al

EDIT...

Watched the first two minutes and I like what I see....very well done and explained;Sweet;Sweet


NICE vid...wife had a bath!

Nicely done for certain....hey just a though but what about taking a NEW fuel filter and fill it with diesel purge....and take 3-4 cans diesel purge...make a closed loop from lift pump to return to tank line and instead of going to tank back to bottle....in a 2 lter pop bottle draw from bottle through your lift pump to filter...to IP to injectors and then a long return line from that rear return line back to the pop bottle and basically run that down to almost nill then change filter again...it is a closed loop pump clean and is allegedly a great way to clean the IP...read that ***** somewhere on the net and here a couple times..you could video it too...maybe it will clear up your issue...maybe not..but two filters and some diesel purge and some more clear line...your in business!

JM2CW
 
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woodstockva

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Nicely done for certain....hey just a though but what about taking a NEW fuel filter and fill it with diesel purge....and take 3-4 cans diesel purge...make a closed loop from lift pump to return to tank line and instead of going to tank back to bottle....in a 2 lter pop bottle draw from bottle through your lift pump to filter...to IP to injectors and then a long return line from that rear return line back to the pop bottle and basically run that down to almost nill then change filter again...it is a closed loop pump clean and is allegedly a great way to clean the IP...read that ***** somewhere on the net and here a couple times..you could video it too...maybe it will clear up your issue...maybe not..but two filters and some diesel purge and some more clear line...your in business!

JM2CW

I had forgotten to mention a few things in the video......cars kept driving by, tractor trailers, then a burglar alarm went off across the road! haha.....it took 5 tries before I got one that I was able to even post ;)

Anyway, here is a list of everything I have done in the last month :

Oil & filter change (upgraded to the powerstroke FL-1995 filter)
Transmission fluid change
Transfer case fluid change
Replaced rear shocks
Replaced inner tie rod boots
Replaced tensioner assembly
Replaced idler pulley
Replaced serpentine belt
Removed "dummy light" oil pressure sending unit & swapped in an actual oil pressure gauge sending unit, then bypassed the resistor on the back of the instrument panel, so that now I can see ACTUAL oil pressure (vs the OEM 7lbs & up = normal)
Replaced all instrument panel bulbs
Replaced drivers side window regulator & motor
Replaced both front door speakers
Replaced fender mounted starter relay
Replaced starter
Replaced glow plug relay
Replaced all 8 glowplugs
Replaced fuel filter w/new 1 piece canister filter
Replaced all 8 injectors
Replaced all return lines & caps
Replaced lift pump
Replaced rubber line from frame to the lift pump
Replaced metal line from lift pump to filter w/a rubber line

The truck was idling VERY rough most of the time (unless 900+ rpm), so here is what I replaced w/the fuel system (in order that I did it).

1. Removed OEM fuel filter/bowl assembly & replaced w/a WIX 33417 (one piece) fuel filter, filled w/100% Dieselkleen, bled air out & ran for 25 minutes at idle.....smoke was still coming out the whole time, but NO rough running/missing at all after the initial air purge. However, the following day the smoke AND rough idle had returned.

2. Replaced all 8 injectors w/remans (from Accurate Diesel), replaced all return caps, replaced all return lines, replaced all 8 glowplugs w/Beru Motorcraft ones, replaced glow plug relay w/a NAPA GP109. I torqued everything (including injection line nuts) to the exact OEM specs & I installed the return caps onto the orings w/a light coating of vasaline. I then bled the air out, started the truck, and it smoked MORE & ran worse than before. It looked almost like a crop duster plane at idle/any rpm. I assume this was from a) bad injector(s) / b) old injection pump that couldnt handle the new pop pressure needed / c) air intrusion / d) low fuel levels in my tanks (approx 1/4 in each). The following day, the truck still smoked but ran better.....took it for a drive & at idle the rough idle/shaking was gone....thought my problem was fixed, parked it at a SLIGHT decline (front aimed down) & the next day upon starting it, it ran worse than ever.

3. Removed & checked the one-way check valve on top of the injector pump for debris. None was found & it looked brand new inside. I soaked it w/carb cleaner & emptied it onto a clean paper towel & NO debris/dirt/anything came out...only carb cleaner. Reinstalled & no change was noted.

4. Replaced the lift pump w/a Carter M60278 (not airtex), replaced rubber fuel line from lift pump to metal supply line, replaced the metal line from the lift pump to the filter head with a rubber line (and brass fuel line fittings on both the lift pump & filter head). I made sure to install the lift pump at the bottom of the cam lobe.....I did NOT install this incorrectly, and turned the engine over 3 times prior to installing it to be 100% sure it was at the bottom. Also, I took a 1.5" hole saw & cut 4 holes in the plastic fender well (behind the rubber mat) to see directly into the engine w/a flashlight as I bumped the starter solenoid w/a remote starter. I also disabled the injection pump prior to this so I wouldnt fill the cylinders up w/diesel or accidentally start the truck.

Prior to doing this my fuel pressure at the schrader valve was bouncing constantly between 3-4 psi (on a LARGE OTC gauge.....I did not hook up a smaller 0-15 psi gauge like I wanted to)....this was at both idle and any rpm from 700-2500. After replacing, the fuel pressure was very consistent at 4.5 psi and no longer bounced. The rough idle/smoking continued, but it didnt seem as bad. Both tanks were still at about 1/4 full & it made no difference in smoke or idle in between the two. *** One thing I noted when removing the rubber line from the lift pump to the supply line, if the rear tank was selected the flow of fuel would NOT stop draining out of the supply from the tanks.....once I switched it to the front tank, the flow immediately stopped. ***

5. Filled both tanks 100% full. Now it still idles/runs rough & lots of smoke. But, if I go for a drive & come back, it will idle much smoother once the engine is hot.

6. Made the "how to video" & check for air intrusion, but sadly none was found. I also checked all the fuel lines & connections from the engine to the tanks (supply & return), and the only place that looked wet was the return line from the top of the engine down to the framerail on the drivers side. This could honestly have been from when I changed the rubber return lines & diesel could have spilled down it at that time.

So, after reading a lot more about injection pump timing (advancing the thickness of a dime --- rotating counterclockwise towards the passenger side), I think I will try that next. The truck has 148k on it, and I have owned it for a year. The idling/smoking issue has been the same since day one.

Let me know if there is something else I should check prior to doing this. Do you normally see a big difference in idling w/this new ultra-low sulfur diesel? Since the lubrication quality is no longer there for the injection pump, is untreated (no dieselkleen) causing some of these problems? How much should I add per tank to get good lubrication from now on?

Thanks!

Woodstockva
 

Puller

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My tank selector valve is bad on my truck. If I run off the rear tank tank it misses and puffs smoke at an idle no matter if its full of fuel or not. After I switch it to the front tank and drive about 10 miles it clears up and will idle all day with no smoke. So right now I'm running of the front tank only until I get my aux 70 gallon tank mounted and set-up for WMO.
 

fuzzy1626

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Since the lubrication quality is no longer there for the injection pump, is untreated (no dieselkleen) causing some of these problems? How much should I add per tank to get good lubrication from now on?

Thanks!

Woodstockva

You won't get much in the way of lubrication from the diesel kleen. Alot of us run atf (if your not worried about making your fuel red) or low ash 2cycle oil. I run 6oz of DK ( as a cetane boost), 10oz of atf (for cleaning) and 10oz of 2cycle(for lubicity and to turn my fuel blue) mixed in qt oil bottles stored in the bed, one bottle to a tank.
 

fuzzy1626

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My tank selector valve is bad on my truck. If I run off the rear tank tank it misses and puffs smoke at an idle no matter if its full of fuel or not. After I switch it to the front tank and drive about 10 miles it clears up and will idle all day with no smoke. So right now I'm running of the front tank only until I get my aux 70 gallon tank mounted and set-up for WMO.

I would also check your steel lines from the selctor valve back to the rear tank for rust through.
 

icanfixall

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Your engine sounds like the timing is really retarded. Try advancing the timing about the thickness of a dime. Thats moving the pump towards the passenger side fendr about 1/16 inch. That equals around 3 degrees. Make a center punch mark in the injection pump to gear cover joint first. Then if you move the pump either direction you can easily put it back by matching up th now half circles on each side of the joint. How many miles are on that injection pump...
 

Black dawg

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Your engine sounds like the timing is really retarded. Try advancing the timing about the thickness of a dime. Thats moving the pump towards the passenger side fendr about 1/16 inch. That equals around 3 degrees. Make a center punch mark in the injection pump to gear cover joint first. Then if you move the pump either direction you can easily put it back by matching up th now half circles on each side of the joint. How many miles are on that injection pump...

really does act like it needs quite a bit more timing. Also, maybe I heard the video wrong, but fuel flows FROM filter head to #1 return.
 

woodstockva

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You won't get much in the way of lubrication from the diesel kleen. Alot of us run atf (if your not worried about making your fuel red) or low ash 2cycle oil. I run 6oz of DK ( as a cetane boost), 10oz of atf (for cleaning) and 10oz of 2cycle(for lubicity and to turn my fuel blue) mixed in qt oil bottles stored in the bed, one bottle to a tank.

Thanks for the suggestion! I will be adding the mix to both tanks tomorrow. I just got back from tractor supply, lowes, then autozone & finally found what I think you are referring to....ALL of the 2cycle oil (mini bottles up to gallon jugs) do not list "low ash". The two I bought were quart bottles --- "Valvoline Multi-Purpose 2 cycle oil" & "Pennzoil Marine Premium Plus 2 cycle oil". The Valvoline says "ashless" & the Pennzoil has nothing listed either way. What brand/type should I use for this mixture?

Your engine sounds like the timing is really retarded. Try advancing the timing about the thickness of a dime. Thats moving the pump towards the passenger side fendr about 1/16 inch. That equals around 3 degrees. Make a center punch mark in the injection pump to gear cover joint first. Then if you move the pump either direction you can easily put it back by matching up th now half circles on each side of the joint. How many miles are on that injection pump...

Yeah, from reading a lot in the forums & on other sites, that is what I am hoping will fix/improve this issue. The pump as far as I can tell is original w/148k on it.

really does act like it needs quite a bit more timing. Also, maybe I heard the video wrong, but fuel flows FROM filter head to #1 return.

Yeah I heard myself say that in the video.....I must have misspoken (fuel needed goes to IP & leftover goes to return lines). The IP I can verify the flow on though....I had accidentally pulled the vinyl hose off when running & got sprayed w/diesel from the IP. haha ;) Thanks for the clarification!
 

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