Turning up I.P.

[Dirtleg]

The electric pump might change this procedure but when I changed my IP I left all of my injector lines slightly loose at the injectors and then cranked the engine in short bursts (15 seconds cranking 2 minutes in between) until I had fuel at all the injectors to bleed the system. Then I tighened them up and it started right up.

It seems to me that if the pump were full of air it would collect at the top where the fuel return line attaches. Perhaps you just need to run the electric pump longer.

 

[slam1]

I cracked all the injector lines. I thought because the pump puts out so much pressure it would show me something at the injector head, nothing not even air bubbles came out, maybey I just need to do the 15 sec. starter bursts some more but I did this for quite some time already. Is there any way I could have damaged the pump by poking around with the allen wrench or something. I even practiced on one of the four other I.P.s I have on the shelf so it would be hassle free, yeah right. Keep it coming, Im gonna try all this stuff first light in the morning. I really dont want to change the I.P. Would a pump just quit like this? Jon

 

[Diesel JD]

You need to do what dirtleg said and bleed the pump in short 15 second cranking burst until you have fuel at least at 3 or 4 injectors then tighten them all down, keep the rpms up with the throttle until it smooths out, take it for a short spin around the block to bleed out any remaining air. No way you could have hurt the pump unless maybe you turned the screw all the way out instead of turning it in. Air is a common problem however, and sometimes even a couple lines at the IP need to be loosened to get it to pump like it should. Oh yeah, be careful to take it easy until you get a pyro installed. Good luck,
JD

 

[Cheaper Jeeper]

I double checked everything, Im getting fuel to the I.P. It doesnt seem to be pumping to the injectors. Do I have to bleed the I.P. some how ? Jon

Not to beat a dead horse, but what other folks have been talking about - the fuel shutoff solenoid (FSS) - has an electrical connector on top of the IP. There are actually two connectors & wires - one for the FSS and one for the cold timing advance. If the FSS wire isn't attached or if you got the two wires hooked up backwards that could keep it from starting.

Other than that, loosening injector lines and cranking it in 15 second bursts until fuel starts bubbling out at the injector connection nuts is the next logical step.

 

[Agnem]

Your woes are related to draining all the fuel out of your pump. Remove or loosen the fuel return line at the top of the pump, and crank until you have fuel there. If you don't have fuel there, your not going to get it at the injectors either.

 

[slam1]

I have fuel at the return on the pump, nothing to the injectors. If I was to crack one of the fittings at the back of the pump (lines to injector heads) if the pump was working and full of fuel it should have some pressure when turning over right? I dont even get a drip. Pump shot? I also did the 15 sec. starter bursts and I have the electric fuel pump which I thought would purge the system of air. Any more ideas? Jon

 

[Agnem]

Possibly a problem with your fuel shut off solenoid. When you connect and disconnect the forward most electrical connector on the top of the IP, do you get a small spark and a clicking sound? If not, check for voltage and if present, then the FSV is suspect. You can ohm it out with a VOM and see what kind of reading you get.

 

[slam1]

Yes sir I do have a spark and a clicking sound and I checked for voltage this morning everything checked out. Im working on the beast right now and I clamped the return line going back to the tank hoping this might pressurize the system and purge the air out. Had no effect, its not pushing the fuel through the I.P. but the I.P. is full just not picking up. Jon

 

[slam1]

Sorry, Im pretty new and I dont want to assume anything with these diesels,so where do I find the FSV and how do I test it?

 

[84TD]

Did you turn the pump up by backing the allen key out? CCWise? What would happen if you turned it in? no fuel? Make sure you didn't confuse the wires going to the IP. Beats me. Just might need to purge the air by cranking it. The system is self bleeding but I have been told you can speed up the process by cracking the injector lines at the injectors till you see fuel. Also dont crank it for more than 30 seconds at a time and give it about a 5 min braek in between cranks, these engines will eat starters quick. I found out the hard way and the starter is HEAVY.

 

[84TD]

Looks like you already got all my advise from others. Didnt notice there are 2 pages. Whoops

 

[slam1]

Ended up changing out I.P.'s the old one would make half a rotation and lock, I turned up the one I installed before I installed it.It was unbelievable how easy it was to swap pumps out. Took two hours and I changed the lines.However I still have a couple of problems, it still starts hard most of the time a little whiff of gas and she fires right up. I checked the entire G.P. system everything checked out.I think its still sucking air in somewhere or just losing prime. I went to align my timing marks and discovered someone ground them off the pump, after reading more on this site realized that the marks dont mean much when you change parts anyway. At full throtle the motor is not pulling but when I back out of the throttle to about half it really starts to pull then I can go to wot and it still pulls to 3500 rpm thats the gov. Is this a timing issue and could the hard starting have something to do with this also? My steering coulmn doesent get near as hot as it used to an my manifolds can be touched after driving for 30 min. so I got my EGTs way down from where they were. Thanks for all your help so far, this is my work truck and my only work truck so I got to keep her running or we starve. Jon