Turning up I.P.

slam1

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I looked over several tech articles on the site but couldnt find a clear answer. I own an 88 F250 ex cab 4x4 with the 7.3. Ive had a couple guys tell me to get a little more performance I need to turn up the pump. I just dont want to listen to someone who thinks he knows, I want to listen to someone who does know. Ive had very good luck with advice on this site. Saved thousands of $ reading tech articles and doing the work myself. Any tips on this would be helpfull. Thanks, Jon
 

IDIJunkie

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Before you turn the pump up make sure thet you have a pyro to measure the exhaust temps. You can easly burn down an engine without one.
 

slam1

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Thanks for the advice. when I get a pyrometer, how do I turn the pump up? and does this just increase fuel pressure to the injectors? Or is there more to this little project? Jon
 

Diesel JD

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Does your truck have a turbo? Does it at least have a free flowing 3" or bigger exhaust and the soup bowl cut out? Turning up the pump on a N/A gains a bit of performance but probably more black smoke than anything else. I don't know if its right to say that turning up the fuel increases fuel deleivery pressure...it may be. I prefer to think that you are shifting the fuel delivery curve such that more fuel is injected at any throttle position. The limiting factor is of course do you have enough air to burn the extra fuel? The first question is do you have much black smoke now? if not you probably have room to play...though everyone's advice about a pyrometer is good advice...get one, mount it close to the manifold, watch it. Turning up the fuel requires you to take off the little triangular cover on the passenger side of the injection pump and bring the engine to TDC fuel shutoff solenoid disconnected of course and then when you can see the allen screw, use a 5/32 allen wrench of good quality and turn the screw clockwise. It'll have a lot of resistance and not move very far, about 3 flats or 1/2 of a full turn maxes the pump out from what I hear. The whole time my truck was N/A I left the fuel to the calibration the pump builder set it at. When I put on the turbo and a rebuilt pump, I turned up the fuel before I put it in. I bottomed out the screw then backed off about a flat and a half. If I did it right(questionable) then I'm somewhere between stock N/A calibration and maxed out. I can't make EGTs higher than 650 even at 80mph with an empty truck...max turbo boost is only around 4-5psi with an old ATS no gated unit. Zigg has a more detailed, more expertly written article on turning up the pump.... you should read it and then decide if you want to or not. If you have a turbo, you need to do it, if you're N/A its a tough call.
 

slam1

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No smoke at all. Engine has about 75000 original miles on it. My exhaust manifolds get hot enough under load to make my steering column about untouchable(very hot) this happens for the most part when im on the interstate at about 2700 rpm. Is this normal? Where can I findthe article you refered to? thanks for the help. Jon
 

slam1

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No turbo, 2 3/4 exhaust 2into1 into2 and I did cut soup bowl out and put a K/N in it. Jon
 

Agnem

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How many miles are on your current pump? Chances are, if it has a lot, your timing is retarded a good bit though wear. Fuel delivery will be down also. Get it timed, get a pyro, and then turn it up. Turning it up will not do as much for you as getting it timed properly if it is retarded.
 

Mr_Roboto

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It sounds like the timing may be retarded. Retarded timing would result in the exhaust manifolds getting very hot as well as no black smoke.

I would suggest marking your current timing, then advancing a little to see if it helps. To advance you rotate the top of the IP towards the passenger side.
 

Diesel JD

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The column always gets hot, but untouchable, I don't know if I like the sound of that. Get the timing set 1.5-2*ATDC @1400 rpm with the luminosity method or 8.5*BTDC with the pulse method, then get a pyrometer, I hate the idea of drillinga hole in the manifold but that would actually be the best spot....but within 3" of the manifold will be almost just as hot. We have determined that guages vary slightly but in general on a N/A motor you should see no more than 1100-1200 at WOT at the manifold, really more to the 1100 side. If you can't get hold of a timing meter a good stanadyne shop will usually set it for about .5 -1 hour worth of labor or you could follow Roboto's suggestion. Its a really good suggestion if you know what a healthy IDI should sound like... but if you don't you might might be considerably off.
 

slam1

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I advanced the timing on the I.P. just a touch 1/16 off stock marks. I figured while im at it ill turn up the pump. Everything went easy, (should have known this was a problem) I button it up, turn on the electric fuel pump, purge the system and now the truck wont start. So I put it all back to original settings, still wont start. Am I missing something here ? truck ran fine before, this is what I get I guess. Like grampa always said dont fix it if it aint broke! any input would be helpfull thanks Jon
 

Dirtleg

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I just have to ask. Did you reconnect the fuel shutoff solenoid? I am stumped after that.:dunno
 

Mr_Roboto

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Did you knock off the wire to the FSS solenoid on the IP?

Also if you introduced air into the IP (from taking off the side cover) it will not start easily.
 

slam1

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I double checked everything, Im getting fuel to the I.P. It doesnt seem to be pumping to the injectors. Do I have to bleed the I.P. some how ? Jon
 

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