turbo questions

gearhead

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I have a 1983 Mazda B2200 with the perkins 2.2L diesel (4.135 perkins).Its non turbo so its pretty slow. stock has about 50 hp and 90 lbs-tq. I was thinking of turboing it.The motor itself can take some boost nothing to crazy but probally still be just as reliable with 8-10 PSI.The Injection pump is a copy of a bosch 4bt injection pump so I can add fuel.That and the engine came factory with an oil cooler, so Im good to go as far as the engine goes. My questions concern the oil inlet for the turbo and the actual turbo manifold.

the exhaust is on the right side of the engine.The oil pressure idiot light is on the left side of the engine near the oil pan.Would it be safe to T off that line and run a small braided hose up over the the top of the engine and to the turbo on the other side?would that work or would the turbo get starved of oil due to air getting caught at the top of the hose?

As for the exhaust manifold itself. I know that diesel exhaust is much cooler than gasoline exhaust.In the turbo gasser world only stainless steel or cast iron can hold up to the heat.Would regular mid steel exhaust work on the small diesel?Or would I be better off using cast iron "weld els" at 10-20 bucks a piece?Money is in scares supply right now so anyway I can save money would be great.

My goal isnt to make a super powerful drag truck or anything.Mostly to help abit with all the hills around here.That and with the non turbo diesel anytime the engine is at high loads or high speed, the engine can't suck in enough air to completely burn all the fuel in the chambers so I end up with a light hazing behind me.Which doesn't really help much with fuel economy.Before I would even start modifiy anything the truck would get a bunch of gauges.Mostly to replace the inaccurate factory gauges, but still some performance gauges as well.
so it would be getting:
Oil Pressure,Volts,Water temp,TACH,EGT.

oil,volts, and water come as a set so that would be what i would run. I don't think boost is that important because I am not going for much. With that being said I would like to optimize as much as possible on the truck so the header would be a "pulse design". 1&3 and 2&4 would each be connected to each other,Then the resulting two tubes would feed the turbo.The I would run a 3" DP and then go 2.5" all the way back. then of course there would be some fueling mods,etc.Probally will end up at about 100 HP and 230 lb-tq or so which would make that little truck get up and go..
 
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FordGuy100

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If I were you...I would almost try to find another oil port to tap into for oil pressure. I know our IDI's have a couple different places you can get it from. Worst case scenario you can just take out the oil sender and not use it.

Where does the exhaust manifold runners come together? I think you would be ok with mild steel, though you would need to ceramic coat it for sure. On my one pipe that comes from the drivers side manifold over to the other, I think its just regular old exhaust piping, so aluminized steel?

You definatly have the gauges right, those would help out. Also, a boost gauge to make sure your not overboosting it (like you said 8psi would be a good start, it makes a world of difference).

Oh...I thought you were going to run the exhuast manifold, now your saying a header? In that case Make it short, and mount a turbo flange on it so you can mount the turbo right to it ;Sweet. Dont forget to run a hole for the pyro in it as well, where all the tubes come together so you can get an accurate reading.

So this truck has a rotary pump then? Like the old cummins VE pump? If so, then yes you can turn it up fairly easy.
 

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