Turbo Pedestal Seals

[RenoF250]

How hard it is to get the turbo off and change the pedestal seals? Is it worth changing the boots under the Y while I am there? Anything else that should be done at the same time?

 

[BJS]

From what I've read (I haven't done it myself) it's not extremelty difficult mechanically more that it's a PITA to reach all the way back there to the turbo and do the work.

The boots tend to not need replacing unless you tear them somehow.

The up pipe gaskets & the manifolds tend to cause problems and would be relatively easy to change while you already have the turbo out.

 

[stelectric]

go to the ford place and get new boots they are cheap

 

[RenoF250]

I got the boots $16/piece. The old ones look like they were leaking, the clamps were loose and they fell right off. I ordered a EBPV actuator seal kit today for $163 that is supposed to be in in the morning. A little piston and some washers, what a ripoff.

 

[wycowboy]

Getting the turbo Off is not too bad and there but getting the 3rd pedistal bolt is tricky. I just did mine last spring. If you do It and need help let me know. I'm in reno too, The bolts holdng the turbo pedistal are 10mm and if you go to sears . sears is the only place I knowto get these.. you can get 10mm sockests with a flex u joint built in. maks the job much easier. J

 

[Doggy Daddy]

Getting the turbo Off is not too bad and there but getting the 3rd pedistal bolt is tricky. J

I'm guessing that wycowboy has a 94-97 truck where the pedistal comes off with the turbo. In the Super Duties they come out separately; there is one bolt where a wobbly is still helpful. I'd do the O-rings on both sides of the pedistal while it is out. Look up from underneath at the Y-pipes (from the manifolds to the casting at the turbine inlet) and if you see a soot stain where they meet the casting then the donut gaskets are leaking. Once they start to leak the pipes frequently get erroded by the escaping gasses and the pipes need replacment also.

If you are not doing the Y-pipes the difficult parts of the job will be:

Sometimes the clamps on the turbine inlet and outlet (downpipe) get stuck and don't want to come loose. A hammer and punch will often "shock" it loose where pulling and prying will not. Soak it good with penetrating oil and expect a battle (it makes it seem like a victory if it comes loose right away). If you coat all the mating surfaces with anti-sieze on reasembly it will help if you ever need to do it again.

Clean the spots where the O-rings sit with brake clean and super glue the new O-rings in, then put a little grease on the top of the O-rings. It will save you the frustration of getting it all together and finding out that one of the O-rings was pushed out when you slid the turbo in.

The dowel on the turbine inlet casting can be a bear to get aligned. Make sure that the V-band clamp is in (stretch it open and push it fully onto the casting) and get the turbo and casting mated before bolting the turbo down. You might need to wiggle it around a bit to get that dowel into its hole in the casting. I make sure that the dowel hole is clean and lubed with anti-sieze so that when it is aligned the dowel will slide in easily.

If you are doing the EBV actuator reseal: push the rod all the way in, make sure it is square (look at the rod in the hole), and measure the legnth of the rod from the eye to the housing. Set the new one to the same legnth and you probably (99% sure) will not have to worry about the adjustment. The instructions call for a pre-load measurement with a spring scale, don't get scared away but do set the new one the same as the old one.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[wycowboy]

Doggy , is right I for got that to to check that , and yes I have A97. good catch. any how. I still have som exspeience wihtthe SD's. good luck

 

[RenoF250]

I have it all back together and all seems to be well. The turbo exhaust inlet alignment was a bit of a pain. Got the turbo setting down and could not get the clamp on and then realized it was not on all the way. Then got it on all the way and was afraid the o-rings got out, checked that and had to get it back in again. I am glad I got the EBPV seal kit. The new kit is greatly improved, they added a seal and the new piston fits much tighter. I am pretty sure that was the source of my leak in the first place since oil was sprayed on the passenger side uppipe and that is the only place it could have sprayed from that I can see. I was hoping I would have a bunch more boost from sealing the leaky y-pipe boots but it appears if anything I have less boost. Also I set the EBPV rod with a 10 pound weight since I did not have the measurement. wycowboy, thanks for the offer. I am over the hill about 2 hours away from you though. My sister and brother in law live in Stead right near you though. He has a red 1999 F350.

 

[wycowboy]

Thanks. I 'll keep my eyes out for a big res ford.!! I always look at truck!!J

 

[Doggy Daddy]

Congrats! Glad it all went well.