Troubling Realization

Smokey73

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I bought this truck(92' F350) a few months ago, and have steadily been working the bugs out of in order to get it ready for the hay field this spring. I thought I had everything done except one last little fuel leak. Yesterday morning I opened the hood and dried everything off around the fuel pump, expecting to find a loose injector line, because I noticed a little bobble at idle. It wasn't that easy, the pump was leaking around the head housing. The truck runs like a spotted ape, so I figured, worst case senario I'll pull the pump and send it in to get it resealed. In the mean time, I pulled the pump off the old '88 out back, just so we can still use it untill I get the good pump back. After I got everything all bled out and all was good, I noticed bubbles around one of the injectors from the spilled fuel from bleeding out the lines. I thought mabey it's a little loose, yeah right. I ended up pulling it out. That's when I noticed that it didn't have a copper seat, and it was a G code. I checked the others and half were BB's and the other half were G's. I can spray the G's with brake clean while it's running and the engine will rev, so who ever replaced the injectors put different ones in and didn't put seats on them.-cuss
 

Smokey73

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i guess my question is, is there that big of a difference between the two types of injectors, should i change out half of them, if so which half, do the G's really make a big enough difference on a non-turbo?
 

Hallworth

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I would change them all, Thats just me. I kinda see it like brakes, you would put new brakes on just the drivers side and leave the old ones on the passenger side. If you don't want tho change all of them at least get the ones you are going to re use pop Tested.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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The only difference between the bb's and the g's is the pop pressure. If you can find someone to tested and balance them you should be good to go.
 

discbrks

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I'd change them so that they are all the same - whether they are all G's of BB's... like Shadetree said, if you can have them all pop tested & shimmed so that they're all close, that would be the best for performance.
I pulled out a set of E's in my truck & replaced them with G's.... no real difference.
 

Smokey73

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Well, I had another set of injectors lying around so I cleaned and tested them and got a good matching set. I started to pull them out of the engine. All the ones that weren't leaking compression came out easily, the other ones were all hard to get out and two of them came apart because the other guy didn't put seats on them-cuss. The first one was up front and didn't cause much of a problem. I took the top part and ground the threads and screwed it back into the other and pryed it out. The other one was #8, not that easy. The fine threads of the lower half stripped out. I haven't got it out yet
 

Agnem

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Crap. Try lots of PB blaster, and be carefull of hydrolock.
 

icanfixall

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Mercury outboards have a carbon disolver that really works great on carbon. I think its called Mercury Carbon Blaster or remover. Try an outboard repair shop for it. Also remove another injector tip and make something that will fit into it... Maybe cut some threads in it or make the tool kinda like a square bolt extracter. Pound it down into the stuck tip and twist it. Maybe even grind down a bolt extracter to fit it... This really suxs big time I know but you will get it out and damn the other guy that crapped this mess.... Its simply amaizing what some hack will do when they don't know any better or really care what they are doing. I sure hope nobody paid for this kind of work....
 

Smokey73

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Sucess

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I found a tap that fit the bottom part of the injector body, the part where the nozzle goes through, 7/16 nf. I dipped the tap in grease, to trap the fillings, and tapped the injector out. I took a long 7/16 fine thread bolt and ran a die most of the way to the top. Threaded a nut onto the bolt and stacked some large washers on the bolt. I made sure that the washers were big enough as not to fit inside the injector bore but small enough to fit onto the flat ridge at the top of it and that there were enough of them to pull against. I threaded the bolt down into the bottom of the injector body. Screwed the nut down to the washers and made sure everything was tight and that the threads wern't going to pul right out, and then started cranking on the nut. It was tight all the way, but pulled everything right out.:thumbsup:
 

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