Transmission Pan Bolts?

[mohavewolfpup]

So I traced my transmission leak to a half assed repair the Prior Owner did. Involved a random bolt grabbed off a shelf with a cheap washer tucked on it. Leak path points to that area after I poked at it for a while. So, I'd like to fix this once and for all.

Is this a good idea?

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-11191-stage-8-c6-trans-pan-bolt-kit.html

Looks like ARP Bolts used for it. I also looked at the ARP site, and they only have bolts for a TH350/TH400. Having a C6, that's a no go. Unless I believe a website I saw that said I could use it on a C6? Are GM TH series bolts cross over to C6 pans? No Amount of digging online could find out the bolt lengths for a C6 and THXXX series transmission.

ARP is good for our cylinder heads, but is it overkill for a transmission pan? I tend to think not based on having read about them being leakers and the gasket issues, but you never know!

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Thanks for your help!

 

[Knuckledragger]

The ARP design relies on the washers (interesting design) to keep the bolts from backing out, not the bolts themselves. no need for 12 point grade 8 screws, the pan will explode before the bolt would fail. You have 17 bolts holding on a pan that holds about 3 quarts of fluid. They (the bolts) are there for sealing the pan, not strength.

Have you dropped your pan yet? The leak may be from a lost bolt that created a gasket failure, not the type of replacement bolt. Stock bolts are not anything special and your replacement looks to be grade 5 (3 marks on top) anyway, plenty strong to keep a pan on.

 

[mohavewolfpup]

I don't know the prior history. When I purchased the truck, nothing leaked on it (aside from the usual 28 year old grime on the engine). About 3? weeks ago I noticed a ton of transmission fluid on the ground. I checked the level, found it low and added some more. would go for around 2-3 days with nothing (sometimes a week) then start over. I never replaced the bolt myself. My working theory is it's been a california truck all it's life, so coming from a mild climate to a harsh one (desert here) hastened the departure of the seal along with the wrong bolt/washer setup.

I'm looking into having a little more aggressive bolt setup on it, to counteract the leaking but also prevent the bolts from backing out due to the intense vibration/clatter of the diesel. I will also see a lot of off road (washboard roads) hauling stuff for a dog rescue, as well as a future trailer all over the country to assist my families business venture. That's my logic. Not sure if it's flawed, but i'd rather over engineer on something crucial like this!

I have not taken the pan apart yet due to lack of funds. When I do, i'm putting a new filter and everything in to certify it's golden for a while

 

[OLDBULL8]

If your that concerned, when you do drop the pan, make sure you get the rubberized gasket, not the cork, then clean the bolts and bolt holes with Brake Kleen and use Green Loctite on the bolts. I'll guarantee you they will never back out.
IIRC, They are only 5/16"-18 bolts, torque spec is 14 Ft lbs.

As you say, "I found a ton of transmission on the ground" , ya better climb under and tighten the bolts now. If there tight, you have a seal leaking.

 

[Knuckledragger]

x2 on ^. When re tightening the bolts, make sure not to over tighten, that is a sure way to create leaks by smashing the gasket and warping the pan. Better yet, get an aftermarket aluminum pan, they won't warp and will make a better seal than the stamped steel stock pans. They also have 2 qts. more capacity.

 

[Wicked97]

That bolt is fine.
Your problem is the gasket.
If its bulging out it has been over tightened and it will leak.
Also it looks like black silicone.was put in there which means its done it before.

Pull the pan and look at the holes. Make sure pan is flat all the war around. Odds are where every hole is they will be raised. Take a ball peen hammer and tap them flat put a new gasket in and don't over tighten it.

Arp bolts are 1000% useless on a c6 trans pan.

 

[NO_SPRK]

every ford diesel automatic ive owned had atleast 1 pan bolt stripped or missing.

i think these engines shake em apart. x2 on the rubber REUSABLE gasket. also id put a drain plug in while its out. also check out derale steel pans (with cooler tubes)

 

[icanfixall]

I can't see changing to ARP bolts. They are nice but spend the money on an after market aluminum pan. Check Summit or Jegs for choices. I see in your pics the gasket looks squeezed out so that why its leaking. Not the type of bolt used. No RTV should ever be used on a auto trans. Way too big a chance it gets into the small fluid passages and plugs up the works even when you have a filter in place. Just not worth the risk.

 

[trackspeeder]

Check the pan rail for damage. It should not have any waves. If it does straighten them out or get a new pan for the 4R100. You can get them for a reasonable price from Ford. Use a new rubber gasket and torque to spec. As OLDBULL posted.
Don't go crazy with the fasteners. They will not rattle out if tighten to spec.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

don't let a bad gasket and someone over tightening of the bolts get you worried about a diesel engines trans not being able to remain torqued.this is not an issue.not even a little issue.it's in your mind only.
iv got an 4r100 trans pan coming myself.i grabbed it at fordpartgiant.com for like 40 bucks for my next flush.
head to napa and get a trans filter.it comes with the reusable rubber gasket and grab some mercon 5 atf while there and flush the trans if you don't know how long its been.
don;t worry about those jumbo size trans pans with fins and things.if you need to lower temps to get perfect 175-225 fluid range,then do so with a large enough aux cooler.more fluid just means it takes longer to get the trans up to ideal operating temps and cost more when you flush it.i suppose you could extend your flush intervals,but i wouldn't.converter output temps are still warming the fluid up just as much before being cooled.