TheBirdman
Registered User
you can buy rolls of the nylon line with the connectors that you put on yourself online for pretty cheap, thats what I just did. you dip the hoses in boiling water to soften them, then jam them onto the fittings.
Trailered home a 1989 F350 dump truck that looks great on the outside, but the 7.3 IDI is something else
- Thread starter crazydane
- Start date
Thanks! Don't know that I would call them cheap. The Dorman 800-050 5/16" quick connector runs about $20 a pop from Bronco Graveyard and even more on Amazon. I think I would need like 10 of those. Do you have a cheaper source?
EDIT: Above are with 18" of tubing and union. Need to look for just bare quick connectors.
Are you also able to bend the nylon tubing for turns using a heat gun? (I realize you have to be careful)
EDIT: Above are with 18" of tubing and union. Need to look for just bare quick connectors.
Are you also able to bend the nylon tubing for turns using a heat gun? (I realize you have to be careful)
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TheBirdman
Registered User
these are the ones I bought
On the 5/16 one I had some trouble getting the fittings onto the smaller line, but I made it work between the two. I also needed less fittings because I got rid of the switcher altogether and plumbed the front tank directly to the lift pump, then set the rear tank up with a transfer pump into the front.
On the 5/16 one I had some trouble getting the fittings onto the smaller line, but I made it work between the two. I also needed less fittings because I got rid of the switcher altogether and plumbed the front tank directly to the lift pump, then set the rear tank up with a transfer pump into the front.
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Thanks!
So I decided to go ahead and remove the hood and fenders:
I then realized not much else had to be removed to lift off the cab:
Only thing left is to pull the wiring harness out from the frame going back and the cable for the hydraulic valve:
I'll then remove the old fuel lines, roll the chassis outside and give the frame a thorough power wash and then prep it for POR 15.
Then install the fuel tanks and engine/transmission as a single unit.
So I decided to go ahead and remove the hood and fenders:
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I then realized not much else had to be removed to lift off the cab:
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Only thing left is to pull the wiring harness out from the frame going back and the cable for the hydraulic valve:
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I'll then remove the old fuel lines, roll the chassis outside and give the frame a thorough power wash and then prep it for POR 15.
Then install the fuel tanks and engine/transmission as a single unit.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I'm a little bit jealous. That's MUCH easier than the cab removals that I'll be doing here soon.
Got the cab completely separated:
Floorboard is more rusted that I thought. Driver side isn't too bad:
Passenger side is worse:
Closeup:
You can see several rust through holes. Hoping I can get away with just using POR 15 floor pan restoration kit and not weld in new sections. What do you guys think?
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Floorboard is more rusted that I thought. Driver side isn't too bad:
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Passenger side is worse:
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Closeup:
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You can see several rust through holes. Hoping I can get away with just using POR 15 floor pan restoration kit and not weld in new sections. What do you guys think?
I'll have to get better at welding but I suppose I can learn on this truck, although thin sheet metal is probably not the most forgiving.
The selector valve was definitely swapped out at one point:
Which explains why the connector wasn't plugged in. Fortunately, the OEM connector fits the new selector valve. Just has to be cleaned up from being exposed to years of road grime.
Got the old fuel lines pulled out:
So almost ready to give the frame a thorough cleaning.
The selector valve was definitely swapped out at one point:
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Which explains why the connector wasn't plugged in. Fortunately, the OEM connector fits the new selector valve. Just has to be cleaned up from being exposed to years of road grime.
Got the old fuel lines pulled out:
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So almost ready to give the frame a thorough cleaning.
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Old Goat
Full Access Member
Iam thinking the one your truck is an after market ******.
The Plug was changed to the round pin one.
Also looks like you have rubber hoses connecting to the FSV.
originally the lines were plastic, with the push on connectors
with the push down lock piece.
They spliced in rubber hose to the plastic lines.
The replacement is what Ford originally used from my experience.
This is the replacement plug for the FSV you bought.
www.ebay.ph
Here is a thread from FTE.
EDIT:
P O L A C K is another bad word?
Goat
The Plug was changed to the round pin one.
Also looks like you have rubber hoses connecting to the FSV.
originally the lines were plastic, with the push on connectors
with the push down lock piece.
They spliced in rubber hose to the plastic lines.
The replacement is what Ford originally used from my experience.
This is the replacement plug for the FSV you bought.
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Here is a thread from FTE.
Replacement Connector for Fuel Selector Valve - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Replacement Connector for Fuel Selector Valve - Couple years ago when I installed my 38 Gallon rear Fuel tank, I also replaced the in tank Fuel Senders, Shower heads and the Fuel selector Switch over Valve. I had a problem with the factory plug...
www.ford-trucks.com
EDIT:
P O L A C K is another bad word?
Goat
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Thanks Goat! Went ahead and ordered one as the oem connector on my harness as pretty rough and the locking latch and part of the housing is broken off and the rubber gasket has seen better days. Want to make sure the electrical connection to the selector valve is secure.
I looked at the kit birdman linked to (thanks!) but it only comes with 4 of those quick connects. I'm going to need a total of about 12.
Are these the correct style?
I looked at the kit birdman linked to (thanks!) but it only comes with 4 of those quick connects. I'm going to need a total of about 12.
Are these the correct style?
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Pulled the frame outside and gave it a good power wash:
The gavel made it a bit of a mess. Once I get it on the road, getting some fresh gravel for in front of the shop will be one of the first jobs I'll do with it.
Checked in with Joe @ CDD and my rebuild I.P. is still about 6 weeks out.
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The gavel made it a bit of a mess. Once I get it on the road, getting some fresh gravel for in front of the shop will be one of the first jobs I'll do with it.
Checked in with Joe @ CDD and my rebuild I.P. is still about 6 weeks out.
ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
Well you got plenty to do to keep you occupied for 6 weeks!
Lol, yeah you're probably right about that.
Got the underside of the frame pressure washed this morning:
Discovered that one of the bushings for the front cross beams is shot:
So I'll do both of those.
I also discovered that the frame had been painted in the past and started flacking off in places. Spent a good but of time cleaning out the drain holes in the saddles holding the rear leaf springs. Once I could see through, I switched to a needle scaler. Fortunately the rust wasn't too deep in any of them. When it was painted previously, they never bothered the clean those out and painted right over the dirt and small rocks stuck in those.
Got the underside of the frame pressure washed this morning:
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Discovered that one of the bushings for the front cross beams is shot:
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So I'll do both of those.
I also discovered that the frame had been painted in the past and started flacking off in places. Spent a good but of time cleaning out the drain holes in the saddles holding the rear leaf springs. Once I could see through, I switched to a needle scaler. Fortunately the rust wasn't too deep in any of them. When it was painted previously, they never bothered the clean those out and painted right over the dirt and small rocks stuck in those.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
There are a lot of YT Video`s on how to push the connectors into
the plastic line. I went through this heating it in hot water etc...
maybe I didn`t get it hot enough. There are tools made to push
them together, and DIY tools guys made.
I do a bit of searching...
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
How To: Nylon fuel line without $$expensive$$ tool.
Pretty ingenious method I found tonight while doing some research on Nylon fuel lines. Budget fuel line option raiding the yards, and doing this saves some $$$LOOT!!!$$$ All new cars have this type of fuel line and fittings I've been told. Saves you the $100 on the Dorman Nylon compression...
nastyz28.com
How To: Nylon fuel line without $$expensive$$ tool.
Pretty ingenious method I found tonight while doing some research on Nylon fuel lines. Budget fuel line option raiding the yards, and doing this saves some $$$LOOT!!!$$$ All new cars have this type of fuel line and fittings I've been told. Saves you the $100 on the Dorman Nylon compression...
nastyz28.com
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Just wanted to add another option to this great idea. Here is what I did differently, and it works great.
- Saw a Ø2 1/8" hole in a 2x4, just for the slug.
- Drill out the center pilot hole to Ø5/16".
- Carefully saw the slug in half. I used a hand saw and a vise - clamped the slug in the vise first to get the cut started until it started to bind, then finished the cut with the saw clamped in the vise and raking the slug over it.
- You now have two clamshells that fit around the hose, and inside the caulk gun.
Then all I had to do was use a hose clamp around the assembly, and clamp it as tight as needed to prevent slip. This contraption doesn't seem to leave marks on the hose, either. This worked well for my caulk gun design and what I had laying around. I also removed the retainer clips before pressing the fitting to keep from damaging them. Hope this helps!
Attached Thumbnails
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Last one I copied off another Forum.
Along sided ea YT Vid are other vids to click on also.
More than one way to skin a Cat.
Goat
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Thanks Goat! If boiling in water for 30 secs proves an issue, I'll try your 2x4 method. Very neat!
Decided to needle scale the entire frame to expose the metal for the POR 15 prep steps. In some places the repaint they did was ok, in others I exposed rust when removing the paint. In pic below I had started on the driver side rear and working my way towards the front:
Here's one of the leaf hangers after I got the old dirt/rocks out and needle scaled it:
Still plenty of metal left. The top of the frame also had a spot on each side with more the just surface rust:
Again, plenty of metal left.
Entire frame done outsides and tops:
I'd like the remove the exhaust before prepping further. Its all one long welded piece. It looks like I might be able to just lift the frame and drop it below:
Worst case, I'll remove the rear axle, which I plan to do anyway at some point, but its convenient to be able to roll the frame around with it still attached for now.
Since I'm pretty much all in at this point, I'm again thinking hard about doing a 4x4 conversion. Sky has this kit, that will take a Dana 60 and super duty springs:
www.skysoffroaddesign.com
I watched @bulletpruf video using that kit and it didn't look too bad of a job, especially not with the entire frame exposed.
If I got that route, I'll ditch the PTO drive for the dump bed and go electric over hydraulic. I'm also keeping an eye out for a newer aluminum dump bed instead of the old beat up steel one I got now.
I guess you can say I got the bug now, lol.
Decided to needle scale the entire frame to expose the metal for the POR 15 prep steps. In some places the repaint they did was ok, in others I exposed rust when removing the paint. In pic below I had started on the driver side rear and working my way towards the front:
You must be registered for see images attach
Here's one of the leaf hangers after I got the old dirt/rocks out and needle scaled it:
You must be registered for see images attach
Still plenty of metal left. The top of the frame also had a spot on each side with more the just surface rust:
You must be registered for see images attach
Again, plenty of metal left.
Entire frame done outsides and tops:
You must be registered for see images attach
I'd like the remove the exhaust before prepping further. Its all one long welded piece. It looks like I might be able to just lift the frame and drop it below:
You must be registered for see images attach
Worst case, I'll remove the rear axle, which I plan to do anyway at some point, but its convenient to be able to roll the frame around with it still attached for now.
Since I'm pretty much all in at this point, I'm again thinking hard about doing a 4x4 conversion. Sky has this kit, that will take a Dana 60 and super duty springs:
85-91 Ford F-250 / F-350 2" Front Shackle Reversal SUPER DUTY AXLE CON
Description: Adapts the much better riding 99-04 Superduty Springs Provides much better ride than stock by moving shackle to rear of spring. Eliminates the weak front shackle design. Levels truck by lifting 2" and allows use of 35's (minor trimming may be needed) NEW OPTION! 2wd -> 4wd frame...
www.skysoffroaddesign.com
I watched @bulletpruf video using that kit and it didn't look too bad of a job, especially not with the entire frame exposed.
If I got that route, I'll ditch the PTO drive for the dump bed and go electric over hydraulic. I'm also keeping an eye out for a newer aluminum dump bed instead of the old beat up steel one I got now.
I guess you can say I got the bug now, lol.
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