Torque Converter pulled with engine!

[sasquatch81]

So I am replacing the engine in my truck. It is a 7.3 idi with an E4OD. This I my first time swapping an engine. I have been going really slow, labeling and referring to the three shop manuals for advice. I removed the whole front clip and all accessories from the block before removing the engine to hopefully make it as easy as possible.

So I made my first mistake and pulled the TC with the engine. I only had help for a short time and did not do my homework before I pulled it. Arrggghh!

When I pulled the engine. I lifted the engine and the transmission evenly until the transmission was just below the cab. When I started sliding the motor forward, it came out super smooth and I barely had to wiggle it to get it loose. The transmission did not shift or wiggle when the engine cleared it.

So do you think I screwed up the seal on the transmission?

Should I just replace the seal before I put the engine in?

Do I need to do just the seal on the outer edge of the pump or do I need to do the shaft seal?

Is there any way I can test these seals.

I've read elsewhere that fluid should have dumped out of the TC when pulled that way but I didn't have a drop. Maybe this is normal.

Did I likely damage the pump?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Shouldnt have done any damage however it would be smart to replace the front pump seal. (I do this anytime I split an engine/automatic trans as its cheap insurance) The front pump seal is the seal that looks like a rear main.. its on the front pump of the trans and seals the pump to the outer sealing surface on the converter.

Replace the seal and slip the converter back in the trans. Apply a bit of ATF to the sealing surface on the TC snout and slide it onto the splines. Spin the converter as you slide it into the trans and you'll feel it engage multiple times as all the splines line up. Once seated, give it a couple full rotations to make sure its fully seated and you'll be good to go.

The pump typically gets damaged by not having the converter fully engaged when bolting the engine/trans back together. The converter will push back into the pump and crush the gears. MAKE SURE the converter is fully seated in the transmission. When you put the engine back in, there should be a slight gap between the flex plate and converter. Once the bellhousing is bolted up, slide the converter forward and bolt it up to the flex plate.

A lot of people pull the converter with the engine when in a hurry or they just forget. Typically, it doesn't cause damage.

 

[chris142]

Always replace that seal when you have an engine or trans out for whatever reason

 

[OLDBULL8]

The most important seal is the seal ring, it's just a single wrap Teflon seal. It's called Converter lock up seal. The original seal is prone to leak if it becomes hot.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

The most important seal is the seal ring, it's just a single wrap Teflon seal. It's called Converter lock up seal. The original seal is prone to leak if it becomes hot.

Is that seal on the converter snout or internal to the pump?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Is that seal on the converter snout or internal to the pump?

It's neither.
The seal goes internally in the converter "snout". It's on the end of large splined shaft from pump to converter.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Thanks for the info. I would certainly change both then.

 

[trackspeeder]

Check the converter shaft for scoring. If there is any scoring there is a good chance the pump is damaged. No scoring, replace both seals. This means you got lucky.

Always remove the converter with the tranny. This will prevent the pump from getting damaged.

 

[sasquatch81]

Awesome! Thanks for all the replies. I checked and there is no scoring on the toque converter shaft. I will replace both seals and be sure I mate the torque converter all the way on the transmission shaft. This is off topic a bit but I have read 100's of pages of info and opinions on what coolant to use in these engines. I am wanting to go with an ELC but have read in places that it can do damage to seals in the engine. Since I am installing a new long block with new seals is this so much of a concern. I am also doing all new hoses so they should be good.

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

What is a good ELC that I don't need to be so concerned with SCA?

 

[sasquatch81]

Any thought on Zerex ZXED1. it is decently priced and meets EC-1 standards which I read is great for cavitation protection.

 

[typ4]

I personally use zerex GO5 . I also change coolant every 2 years. Usually because of a failed hose or heater core. ELC is nice but still needs the maintenance checked.
On the dually I bought premix fleet charge, it was on sale and Napa doesn't deliver distilled water. Lol

Oh, no fluid out of convertor just means it drained back to Trans.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Any thought on Zerex ZXED1. it is decently priced and meets EC-1 standards which I read is great for cavitation protection.

I'm using it in my IDI and my 4bt... and a 6.0 and a 6.4 at work. No issues thus far and its the best price Ive found on ELC.

 

[sasquatch81]

After a couple more hours of thrilling research on coolant, I think I will just go with the fleet charge. Seems a whole lot of guys use it and I will be adding a coolant filter after I get the new motor back in anyways. That way I don't watch expensive coolant leak on to my shop floor when I first fill it. Maybe switch out to elc some day.

Thanks a bunch for all the help!

 

[79jasper]

That's the stuff I like. Almost acquired a 5 gal bucket of it.
Apparently that's what the army uses in nearly all the vehicles. Lol

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[OLDBULL8]

In these trucks using Fleet Charge it's good for 150,000 miles. You can get either the Concentrate or the 50/50 mix. With the Concentrate get 4 gallons of it and 4 gallons of STEAM DISTILLED water, or 9 gallons of 50/50, might need that extra gallon to top off and fill the overflow tank.