Too much filtering?

[Cubey]

I have been running two micron Racor on my IDI and 2001 PSD for at least a decade. I got rid of the stock filters on both.

Maybe it's a combination of the old used (and maybe partly clogged) 2 micron filter and an old, maybe slightly weak mechanical fuel pump. Not weak enough to cause a problem normally, but add too much restriction pre-pump and shows up.

It crossed my mind to delete the factory fuel filter and put a 2 micron Racor there instead, but that's too much extra work that I don't care to do. If the 14 micron filter pre-pump stops the shakiness on startups, I'll be happy with it. I like the location too, right next to the oil filter, so it's right there to inspect during oil changes.

It makes be debate putting the fiberglass air dam back or not. Without it, I can easily get under there from the front. I can from the back side but it's much more difficult, more shimmying under to reach it. I have to crawl under from further back than normal, due to the LP tank on the passenger side and the gasoline tank for the generator on the driver's side. Plus the running board right under the cab doors prevent me getting under at that area.

What fuel pump is that you use? The brass looking cylindrical one with the mounting loop. I am tempted to upgrade to electric on the RV. My N/A F250 has the one shown below, put by past owner, and it's been good. I'd need something that is ok with a 085 Turbo for the RV.

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[u2slow]

Maybe it's a combination of the old used (and maybe partly clogged) 2 micron filter and an old, maybe slightly weak mechanical fuel pump. Not weak enough to cause a problem normally, but add too much restriction pre-pump and shows up.

^ That's where my mind was going.

Personal preference, but I'm not a fan of fuel filtering under the truck. I've used the firewall, bracket off brake booster, inner fender, etc. for mounting. Also moved batteries to better locations to make room.

 

[Cubey]

^ That's where my mind was going.

Personal preference, but I'm not a fan of fuel filtering under the truck. I've used the firewall, bracket off brake booster, inner fender, etc. for mounting. Also moved batteries to better locations to make room.

There's really no room under hood on a van chassis, unless maybe if I removed the cruise control servo.

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The stock W/S was underneath, so the fuel line was right there for attaching and after removing the empty W/S cage, it fit fine. It's up high enough that nothing should hit it. Whoever had it on an IDI truck where thy mounted it in place of the stock W/S, cut out the hole into a C shape on the right side to allow it to bolt up to the factory W/S mounting holes. The holes are the same on here as trucks it seems, since it needed that cut out area to mount up on that side.

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[Cubey]

Ugh. I'm sick of trying to deal with Napa. They are the WORST!!! Their website is broken basically. When you do orders for in store pickup, the order never exists outside of the website so stores never complete the order because it doesn't exist on the Napa database they have access to. It's been that way for YEARS now.

So yesterday after that totally failed again (I thought they'd have fixed it by now...), I went in to the store here and the guy SAID he'd call me when the part came in today, no call. I made sure to give him my phone # on his computer. I watched him type it in.

When I called around 3pm, no answer. Closed early for new years? SERIOUSLY??

No wonder Napa is trying to push the (useless) 20% off online, they are probably getting desperate for customers. They have gone to crap and a lot of people have probably stopped buying from them. I can't even walk into a store and place an order in person and get it when promised!

I guess I have to go pay $45 at an O'Reilly to get the dang filter I need, they seem far more reliable for getting stuff fast. Autozone doesn't carry one at all (from what I can find), nor does even Amazon itself or Walmart, so no order for pickup at a location.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I guess I have to go pay $45 at an O'Reilly to get the dang filter I need, they seem far more reliable for getting stuff fast.

I cringe when I have to order from O'reilley's (maybe partly because an because my worst ex girlfriend used to work at one for a while). Although you're right. They do seem to be pretty reliable at getting parts in.

 

[Cubey]

I cringe when I have to order from O'reilley's (maybe partly because an because my worst ex girlfriend used to work at one for a while). Although you're right. They do seem to be pretty reliable at getting parts in.

Ever heard of unused fuel filters going bad with age?

There is a genuine (but who knows how old) 30 micron Racor one on ebay for $14 shipped, still sealed in the plastic. The seals might go bad with age but dunno about the element itself?

I'd have to put off actually getting my hands on for another roughly 6 weeks, but it's 1/3 the cost.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I can't see where the element could go bad if it's sealed. I suppose that the seals could go bad. I've never really thought about it before. If all else fails (assuming that you're talking about the large O-ting type seal on the top) maybe you could even take the one off of your current filter if the "new" one is bad.

 

[Cubey]

I can't see where the element could go bad if it's sealed. I suppose that the seals could go bad. I've never really thought about it before. If all else fails (assuming that you're talking about the large O-ting type seal on the top) maybe you could even take the one off of your current filter if the "new" one is bad.

Yeah, those seals. It has a big o-ring for the bottom cup too. It has no leaks as-is so I could refuse.

It doesn't look rusty or anything:

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I guess I'll order it and just wait to change it. Hopefully the existing filter isn't being rough on the fuel pump on startups when it idles roughly. It still could be an air intrusion issue I suppose with the filter head, even though I don't see any obvious leaks.

 

[Cubey]

Well, that was kind of unexpected.

I noticed they had 6 of those filters available and had best offer as an option. So, I submitted an offer for $10 each for 2 of the filters... and they accepted it within a few minutes. $20 for two genuine Racor 30 micron filters with free shipping. Can't beat that!

I almost submitted $12 each.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I think you did good on that one.

 

[Cubey]

For the time being, I have removed the Racor filter from the system until I can put on a new 30 micron element. I noticed it having harder starts even in warmer temps, so I doubt it's a sudden glow plug problem. It would take more cranking and felt like it was struggling. Probably a problem with it building up fuel pressure through the filter during startup.

Even after sitting for the past 3 days, it started much easier after I removed it this afternoon. I just reconnected the two steel lines directly together again with the roughly 18" piece of hose, bypassing it. Naturally, it did act a little funny from having air in the supply line between the tank and lift pump, but I could tell it wasn't anywhere as bad.

The other day when on the highway, it did notice it acting a little funny. It seemed to slightly accelerate or lose acceleration even when my foot hadn't moved. It wasn't drastic, like I've had in my NA IDI in Wyoming and Colorado at high altitudes, where it felt like somebody hit a turbo button randomly. This was much more subdued, but still noticeable when I'd slowly speed up or slow down by around 5mph. I suspect it was a fuel pressure thing, where it got weak slightly and once it built up again, it recovered. It never stumbled or felt like it was lacking power, it just acted weird. I wonder if it was partly a mild (10-15mph) head coming and going that was factoring in too.

So... I just won't have a water separator for another 500-1000 miles is all. Who knows how many years and tens of thousands of miles it's been that way though. On the plus side, the fuel that was in it didn't look bad. I drained it into a plastic coffee can and put it back in the fuel tank, since I let the Racor filter drain while I was under there.

I ordered some brass 3/8" hose barb valves (4 for $8. cheap and highly rated) that I will put in so I can cut off the fuel supply to the filter for changing it in the future with less mess. I will also put a way to bypass it with a third valve between couple of brass tees. In/Out will have valves and tees with a valve between the tees. Close in/out and open bypass valve and it's bypassed. Close bypass valve and open in/out valves and it'll filter again.