Yes.
We used the drill only (can't remember how many mm - and no machine) and moved it by hand in and out for quiet some time. The drill was used as a file/rasp.
Luckily it wasn't raining...
Yes, it was effort.
Timing Probe Fitment Problem
- Thread starter adamsanders
- Start date
Luckily it wasn't raining...
adamsanders
Full Access Member
So I’m still struggling with this timing meter. I got the truck hooked up today and after doing a lot of reading I knew what things to look for. I had the #1 injector line very clean, and the ground clamp hooked directly to the negative battery terminal with a jumper. However, I still couldn’t get a good RPM reading. I could get it to hold semi-steady at idle but as soon as I increase throttle the RPM readout goes crazy. Like 5000-7000-2000 in 3 seconds crazy. The timing readout is showing numbers but they’re crazy as well, I presume because the RPM is so off. Any ideas here? Also, this is how you connect the sensor lead right?
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Do you have your meter set to "probe" and not "light"? I don't know of that would make it act like you're describing, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
I had this same issue yesterday myself when trying to time my truck. I did not have the transducer grounded to the battery but everything else I had done and was having the same results as you. Rpm’s would be steady at idle but the minute I got into the higher rpm’s the meter went crazy. So any ideas I’ll take them too!
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Did you happen to get your meter off of eBay? And I did have the meter set to probe. I did change the dial to every position at one point or another just messing with it.
Brian VT
Full Access Member
I kinda remember having that happen. (it's been a while)
The sequence of things seemed to matter. Make the connections. Connect the battery. Wait until things seem "settled". Then start the engine.
If it didn't seem right then it was a connection problem. Or the probe depth. Or a clean groove to read. I think I read that liquid (WD-40 or whatever) on the sanded injector connection area helps.
Also, I used a stand-alone battery for the meter (one that I had taken out of my snowmobile for the summer). Not sure if that helps but I think I remember reading that here somewhere. Can't hurt if you have another battery handy. Just to eliminate that variable.
I got mine off Ebay. (seemed to be NIB)
The sequence of things seemed to matter. Make the connections. Connect the battery. Wait until things seem "settled". Then start the engine.
If it didn't seem right then it was a connection problem. Or the probe depth. Or a clean groove to read. I think I read that liquid (WD-40 or whatever) on the sanded injector connection area helps.
Also, I used a stand-alone battery for the meter (one that I had taken out of my snowmobile for the summer). Not sure if that helps but I think I remember reading that here somewhere. Can't hurt if you have another battery handy. Just to eliminate that variable.
I got mine off Ebay. (seemed to be NIB)
adamsanders
Full Access Member
I believe mine was NIB as well. Okay, I will try some WD-40 on the sanded area. The RPM readout should be completely independent of the probe or the harmonic balancer correct? Also did you have an opportunity to check the picture I posted a few posts back? Just want to make sure I have the transducer lead hooked up correctly.
hacked89
Full Access Member
It sounds like you’re still struggling, here you go:
How to Time a 6.9 / 7.3 IDI with a Tech Time 3300
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Brian VT
Full Access Member
I just looked at it. Looks correct. The forked terminal in the springy thingy.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
Yes I’ve watched the video several times. I thought it was pretty helpful. However my problem is with the transducer not reading the RPMs properly. It’s cleaned to the steel, and the ground it’s hooked directly to my battery negative with a jumper. Anything above idle makes the meter go crazy. I’ve moved the transducer around, tightened it, loosened it, tried different ground point. Not sure where to go from here.
hacked89
Full Access Member
You’ve tried it on the straight portion of the line? Which would be different than the video where it shows it closer to the injection. Sometimes near the injector isn’t exactly straight and even and I’ll move it to the straight portion.
Brian VT
Full Access Member
How deep is the probe set? I'd mess with that if you're confident with everything else.
I assume you're groove is clean.
adamsanders
Full Access Member
I will play the position on the line some more and see. My main focus is the transducer because it is my understanding that that should be independent of the probe. This is a quick video of my setup.
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Brian VT
Full Access Member
I put mine much closer to the injector. Just above the nut.
Booyah45828
Full Access Member
Sand more paint off and put the transducer's ground alligator clip on the line. The piezo clamp's location is fine, but the ground clip needs to be on the line pretty near to the clamp, and not to a jumper to the battery negative.
The reason why is that clamp creates a small voltage spike when the injector line pressurizes and expands. The timing unit reads that spike. My feeling is that the reason you're having issues is the unit cannot accurately read that small spike with all of the electrical background noise with the alligator clip on the battery negative. Put it on a clean spot on the line, near the clamp, and your issues will likely go away.
I believe the injector clamp alone is what determines the rpm, so if you're having issues with rpm jumping around it's likely that clamp or the ground for it. The unit will use the clamp's pulse to flash the timing light and give you an rpm. Or it will use the pulse and the balancer gap to give you the rpm w/ a degree reading on the unit.
The reason why is that clamp creates a small voltage spike when the injector line pressurizes and expands. The timing unit reads that spike. My feeling is that the reason you're having issues is the unit cannot accurately read that small spike with all of the electrical background noise with the alligator clip on the battery negative. Put it on a clean spot on the line, near the clamp, and your issues will likely go away.
I believe the injector clamp alone is what determines the rpm, so if you're having issues with rpm jumping around it's likely that clamp or the ground for it. The unit will use the clamp's pulse to flash the timing light and give you an rpm. Or it will use the pulse and the balancer gap to give you the rpm w/ a degree reading on the unit.
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