Thermostat housing check ball

[RocketScott]

I'm prepping a replacement engine to go into my van and figured a new thermostat would be a good idea.

The retainer holding the check ball in disintegrated while cleaning it up. Any ideas for a replacement retainer? I was thinking an oring but I'm worried about it getting sucked into the engine and clogging something up.

BTW- The check ball is 1/4". That was asked in the tacked thread but didn't see it answered anywhere.

 

[OLDBULL8]

The only purpose of the check ball is to bleed any air out of the system, it stays open if any air is in the system and closes when liquid hits it. Both holes are the same size in the block and t'stat neck, so an O'ring might get back down into the block. Don't remember but you may turn the gasket around and block off that hole. I wouldn't use any RTV to hold the ball in.

 

[Hydro-idi]

You can remove it. I took mine out a while back and haven't had any problems with it not warming up or not bleeding air from system.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

My experience is that without the ball the engine warms up very slow, not at all just idling.
I just went through this. I wish I had of taken pictures!
Here is how I did it:
Cut a piece of 3/8 copper tubing a little longer (about 3/16) than the depth of the hole the ball resides in. Put the ball and the tubing in. With a small hammer, a couple punches and some patience, peen the end of the tubing over until it becomes a retainer. It might take two tries to get it right. If the hole is too small, drill it out to a little smaller than the ball. If the copper sticks up past the gasket surface a little file it flat. Better than new and permanent! Took me about an hour tops. Looked factory....

 

[RocketScott]

My experience is that without the ball the engine warms up very slow, not at all just idling.
I just went through this. I wish I had of taken pictures!
Here is how I did it:
Cut a piece of 3/8 copper tubing a little longer (about 3/16) than the depth of the hole the ball resides in. Put the ball and the tubing in. With a small hammer, a couple punches and some patience, peen the end of the tubing over until it becomes a retainer. It might take two tries to get it right. If the hole is too small, drill it out to a little smaller than the ball. If the copper sticks up past the gasket surface a little file it flat. Better than new and permanent! Took me about an hour tops. Looked factory....

That's kinda what I was thinking. I have some small brass freeze plugs that might fit too.

I figured it would 'work' to leave it out but they took the time to put it in at the factory so it must contribute something.

 

[Diesile]

Yes it does(contribute something). Mine would hardly get to temp going down the road and never @ idle.

 

[RocketScott]

This is what I came up with. Trimmed down lock washer till it fit snugly.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Clb]

My experience is that without the ball the engine warms up very slow, not at all just idling.
I just went through this. I wish I had of taken pictures!
Here is how I did it:
Cut a piece of 3/8 copper tubing a little longer (about 3/16) than the depth of the hole the ball resides in. Put the ball and the tubing in. With a small hammer, a couple punches and some patience, peen the end of the tubing over until it becomes a retainer. It might take two tries to get it right. If the hole is too small, drill it out to a little smaller than the ball. If the copper sticks up past the gasket surface a little file it flat. Better than new and permanent! Took me about an hour tops. Looked factory....

Tech section worthy^^^

 

[riotwarrior]

I was thinking about drilling and tapping to fit small allen head pipe plug and drill out the centre of hex...grind/file flush

 

[typ4]

So, the easy fastest way is a 1/8 tube compression nut, like those junky nylon tube with oil gauge types, file some of the open end off, drive it in with a hammer, high points shave off, brass , no rust, if it is under gasket level, good to go.

 

[RocketScott]

Again, the easy fastest way is a 1/8 tube compression nut, like those junky nylon tube with oil gauge types, file some of the open end off, drive it in with a hammer, high points shave off, brass , no rust, if it is under gasket level, good to go.

What's with this 'again' business? This is the first time you've posted in this thread. Got any pictures of what you're talking about or a link to another thread?

 

[typ4]

Ive posted it many times, I have pics on the computer that has crashed, and searching for answers sometimes works pretty well, just sayin.
I removed the again.

 

[RocketScott]

I searched and didn't find anything.

Link the thread

 

[typ4]

Your washer work s great. I don't do links, no time , and it was years ago.

 

[xekon]

here it is, for anyone looking: https://www.oilburners.net/threads/thermostat-check-ball-fix.45238/