The Switch Over Has Begun

[IDIBRONCO]

No. I wish. Mine is a 1997 KX250. I'd love a newer, nicer bike, but my knees are bad enough that I can't stand up on one for more than 15 or 20 minutes. Really, I'm a two stroke nut and mine does everything that I can do and more. If I bought a newer one, I'd love a KTM300. I just ride trails and these days stick mostly to ATV's. I get the bike out every once in a while just to make sure I remember how to ride it.

 

[Tristan]

No. I wish. Mine is a 1997 KX250. I'd love a newer, nicer bike, but my knees are bad enough that I can't stand up on one for more than 15 or 20 minutes. Really, I'm a two stroke nut and mine does everything that I can do and more. If I bought a newer one, I'd love a KTM300. I just ride trails and these days stick mostly to ATV's. I get the bike out every once in a while just to make sure I remember how to ride it.

I am totally understand. It is sport that is ******* the body Although it does help motivate me to stay in shape and keep healthy. It is just too much fun to quit and maybe a bit of an addiction

 

[Tristan]

I managed a little more progress yesterday. The Y-Pipe is in place with all but the one toughest nut started. (Dinner was calling) Due to the fact that the two halves of my Y-Pipe are rusted together I had to pull the front drive-line to be able to get the right angle to slide it up in place. A bit of a pain, but easier than trying to separate the two halves in my opinion.
Tonight will be a night off, going to the Seahawks game. Go Hawks! Hopefully will have some time tomorrow, in between a family lunch gathering and getting the bike ready for a race Sunday. Life is just too busy... I am ready to get her running again!

 

[riotwarrior]

Should be using bolts on pass side instead of studs IIRC but I cant recall much anymore

 

[Tristan]

Bolts on passenger side manifold to y-pipe connection? Both my trucks have studs. Is this a suggested modification? For what reason?


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[bbjordan]

The Y pipe won't seal up to the manifold if you use the studs. It bottoms out on the nut part of the stud. After you get the studs out (heat is your friend), chase the threads with a tap, or at least make sure that the bolts you are using will thread in enough to seal up the Y pipe. I wound up grinding a little bit off my bolts cuz I didn't have the right tap and the stores were closed.

 

[Tristan]

Interesting, does this apply to all types of kits? I had the same y-pipe on the F-250 for about 10 years with no issues. I didn't notice any black soot around the area indicating it was leaking.


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[bbjordan]

I don't know. It may depend on the type of studs. Some have the nut part, some don't. Either way the bolts make for an easier install.

 

[Tristan]

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They aren't tightened down yet, but I don't see any hex head or anything that would stop it. ‍


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[IDIBRONCO]

Without the nut part on your studs, you should be fine. Yours usually don't come out as well as the other kind with the "nut" parts (at least not for me). I've never had trouble removing the ones with the hex on them. I use a good 1/2" impact and a deep 9/16" impact socket. For the bolt installation, I would spray some WD-40 into the holes in the manifold and run the bolts in and out of the holes until they went all of the way through the flange. Sometimes it's nice to have the studs removed for the extra clearance during y-pipe installation. Sometimes it really doesn't make much difference. It just depends on the turbo system.

 

[Tristan]

Thanks guys, I saw on Mike's Big Red thread a picture of his stud with the hex. I can see where that could cause interference.
I had a busy weekend and didn't get much progress done. I did manage to find the time to finish tightening up the Y-pipe. I just stuck with the studs as I never had an issue with it that way on my last install. I will just need to remember to check for any leaks after getting her started up. I also wrestled the down pipe into place and got it all bolted onto the turbo.
Happy Monday everyone!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You're not the only one. I have my engine sitting on the stand and can't seem to get to it. I'm just glad that there's a three day weekend coming up. Maybe if I lock myself in the garage and turn off the phone, I can get something done.

 

[Tristan]

Well guys, here is an update...

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Battery is relocated new cable made for negative and the positive shortened. New lugs crimped on. Will need new batteries soon. These are ten years old!

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The intake is in. I am going to replace the 90deg into the turbo as it is ballooned out an tough to tighten up.

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And the Bilstein Shocks are on.

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Exhaust is done.

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I still need to get my gauges hooked up and the CDR. Then it will be test drive time to see how things shake out.


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[Tristan]

So I have installed my Boost and Pyro gauges, and got the CDR setup on the truck. As I was checking things over I realized I had s good drip of tranny fluid coming out of the dipstick tube. Damn! To make matters worse the sheet metal bracket extension I had made up during install was catching on the down pipe and wouldn't let me remove it I ended up having to pull the down pipe and forward section of exhaust to get it out. Anyway it is sealed up now with exhaust back on and test drive done. Truck seemed to run well, but won't shift on it own and won't go into 3rd at all. I need to adjust the VRV again. I did this before the turbo install and the truck was shifting fairly well. However I did find that the rubber vacuum line to the module on the transmission was split at the end as it went to the hard line. I cut an inch off and stuck it back on. Guessing I am getting a lot more vacuum now making it not want to shift. Hopefully this is the case.
I also have a vibration I think may be the up-pipe on the transmission, might need to loosen it all back up and shift it up a bit.
It seemed to be running strong otherwise! Definitely makes some noise and smoke now.

 

[Tristan]

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